Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

long story short, the previous owner stripped the interior out and gave me a coffee can full of rusty bolts. What size bolts do i need to attach the seatbelts to the interior? the reel is in place, it is just the other 2 bolts that need to be bolted down. ive found answers to what size torx bits will remove them (either t45 or t50), but id much rather put in some hex heads back in there. thanks!

Posted

Since seatbelt anchorages are a safety item (they even have their own regulatory standard for Europe, I am unsure about USA standards though), it is important to match the dimensions and qualities of the bolts used in every way in order to have confidence in them. Not only threaded length, shoulder length, head area and shape, but also hardness and maybe other things too are important considerations.

 

Because of this and the fact that you wouldn't expect to remove them very often prompts me to suggest it would be best to just re-use the originals.

Posted

this is true. seatbelts are one of the most crucial safety areas. however, I don't have those bolts. I guess my original post was vague; the coffee can of rusty bolts was terribly incomplete. 

 

I have been using grade 8 bolts wherever strength has been important, and this is one of those areas. I found one post that mentioned that these were 7/16ths bolts, but have not been able to find anywhere else that confirms that measurement. 

Posted

I believe the seatbelt bolts are special. The threaded portion is smaller in diameter than the smooth portion of the shank, so when the shoulder of the bolt bottoms out the belt can rotate around the shaank.

 

I don't think you'll find them in a Sears hardware store. Try a junkyard, or Comanche Club member.

Posted

 The bolts have a T-50 head.  Not sure if standard or metric but I have a few rolling around in the basement.  The unthreaded portion of the bolts will be difficult to match up as this area allows the seat belts to pivot/rotate. 

Posted

Egad! $15 for a seat belt bolt! Those CyberJeep guys must be planning on retiring early.

 

Take a T-50 Torx bit (1/2" drive ratchet will give you more leverage) with you to a JY. Find an XJ and pull them out. They're a little harder to get to if the seats are still in the Jeep, but not so hard it can't be done.

 

Someone on the Forum refers to these type items as "pocket parts", not that I would know what that means.

Posted

Torx head shouldered 7/16" fine thread bolts.  Good luck finding replacement ones in a store, maybe McMaster sells them, but make sure you get the correct grade.

Posted

I'm not sure, but I think the length of the shoulder is different between the mount locations eg: F/side, retractor mount and static end.

 

 

I think you are correct.  

Posted

They're the same for the static (buckle) end between Renix era XJs and MJs. I pulled the static ends from an XJ at P&P because the buckles on the ones in my MJ were trashed. Bolts in the flor were the same.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Reviving this old thread as I need a replacement floor anchor bolt on the driver side shoulder harness. Old one was rusted and stripped and had to be drilled out. I do believe the retractor bolts and the anchor/static bolts were the same length when I removed the others. Top pivot one was longer, as were the ones for the buckle anchors I believe. Anyhoo, anybody got 1 or 2 laying around that I can buy? No pick n pulls around here to grab out of an XJ.......

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have some lower bolts (for the inboard tunnel side and the outer rocker panel side) of my MJ I would be glad to donate to the cause.  They are shoulder bolts with about a 3/8" of unthreaded shoulder and the standard T20(?) head.

 

Let me know if you want them.

 

Posted

I can grab some out of the 'yard here for ya Wahoo...but not right at the moment.  We're in the midst of a blizzard here right now lol.  How's it up there on the mountain?  CHO looks like it's getting clobbered right now too, so I imagine you are too.

 

Supposed to be in the low 50's here this weekend coming up tho, so I could swing down if you needed me too:beerbang:

Posted
44 minutes ago, mjeff87 said:

I can grab some out of the 'yard here for ya Wahoo...but not right at the moment.  We're in the midst of a blizzard here right now lol.  How's it up there on the mountain?  CHO looks like it's getting clobbered right now too, so I imagine you are too.

 

Supposed to be in the low 50's here this weekend coming up tho, so I could swing down if you needed me too:beerbang:

 

Coming down steady here Jeff, expected 6-8 inches. Doesn't help that my truck is not engaging in 4wd right now! Transfer case is engaging but axle is not. Visual on the CAD lines in the engine bay looks ok, haven't crawled under it yet. But I digress............

 

I'm good on the seat belt bolts, got some from Team Cherokee......thanks for offering though! :beerchug:

Posted

Pull the darn CAD cover off and slide the coupler over to lock the axle shafts together.  Pull the vac lines and cap them, replace cover and never look back again.

 

Were about 6" here now, with another 3-4 to go:beerchug:

Posted

Since this is an old post and I have a related issue, I don't feel bad hijacking this thread.  I'm putting back my interior and can't remember if all 3 bolts on each side are the same length?  I believe one anchor point on each side had a smaller bolt if I recall, is this correct? I didn't do a good job of organizing bolts as I was pulling and don't want to run the wrong size anchor bolt into the wrong location and deal with possible associated headaches.

Posted
On December 12, 2018 at 8:41 AM, Amccutc21 said:

Since this is an old post and I have a related issue, I don't feel bad hijacking this thread.  I'm putting back my interior and can't remember if all 3 bolts on each side are the same length?  I believe one anchor point on each side had a smaller bolt if I recall, is this correct? I didn't do a good job of organizing bolts as I was pulling and don't want to run the wrong size anchor bolt into the wrong location and deal with possible associated headaches.

The upper bolt that attaches on the top of the B pillar has a longer unthreaded shoulder on it than the two that attach at the floor.  The retractor attaching bolt has no shoulder, of course.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...