Jakesjeepmj1988 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 So my jeep is heading higher up so it's time for long arms. Who makes a good long arm set up that has the arm that does both upper and lower on the same arm like the IRO set up. I would show pics of my current set up but my iPad doesn't let me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I don't care for radius arms but if I were to buy one it would be Claytons. The last one I would buy would be the IRO. I know some people are happy with them but there single upper and goofy cam adjuster is too sketchy for me. I also don't like the idea of one 10mm bolt holding my axle in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I ran Rock Krawler long arms on my xj and loved them. I designed the Krawler joint in the axle end so I am a little biased. There is no better long arm kit than the RK setup. Long arms are not something to cheap out on. Pay for a good setup and be done with it the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I'm biased against radius arms so if I were to buy an off the shelf kit, it would have to be the RK 3-link or 4-link setup with separate arms. The only thing I hate about them is that there isn't even vertical separation at the frame end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89eliminator Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 don't go IRO. look into Rock Krawler or Clayton for their 3 or 4 links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnClimber Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I run a Rough Country 4.5" long arm upgrade kit. Arms are significantly beef, but be ready to replace the non-warranty-able UCA bushings once a year. I plan on replacing them w/ JJ's sooner than later. Great arms, not-so-great joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakesjeepmj1988 Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hmm ok I will have to check out thoses other company's thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 RK 3 link here and love it. i beat the $#!& out of them (slammed down on them and used as sliders) and they're still holding up great. a little pricey but i like piece of mind when in a boulder field Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I have Clayton radius arms and love em but wished I would've gone with the 3 link. Good thing about Claytons crossmember is that the center section is removable and the arms are still connected to the frame so you can drop your tranny without removing everything like other companies setups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Another nice thing with Claytons is you can easily upgrade from radius arms to 3 link later on. Just install the 3 link conversion kit and remove the upper Y links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnClimber Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 I have Clayton radius arms and love em but wished I would've gone with the 3 link. Good thing about Claytons crossmember is that the center section is removable and the arms are still connected to the frame so you can drop your tranny without removing everything like other companies setups. Good call, cuz you can't do that with Rough Country :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Another nice thing with Claytons is you can easily upgrade from radius arms to 3 link later on. Just install the 3 link conversion kit and remove the upper Y links. my plan for when I swap to my fullwidths is to make my own upper link and mount on the pass side and have 7-8" of axle side separation and hopefully 4" at my frane end without having to "modify" the floorboard too bad lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 my plan for when I swap to my fullwidths is to make my own upper link and mount on the pass side and have 7-8" of axle side separation and hopefully 4" at my frane end without having to "modify" the floorboard too bad lol You will want closer to 9" axle separation, which isn't hard to do. If the LCA mounts hang below the frame then 4" is simple to get. If you can, try to get closer to 7" if you can. Those might not sound like a lot of difference but it makes a massive different on anti-squad and anti-dive numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny quest Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 my plan for when I swap to my fullwidths is to make my own upper link and mount on the pass side and have 7-8" of axle side separation and hopefully 4" at my frane end without having to "modify" the floorboard too bad lol this is what I'm going with. built the whole front set up using some ballistic brackets and ruff stuff heims. going for more frame side separation though. make sure the upper is a little longer than the lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garvin Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 this is what I'm going with. built the whole front set up using some ballistic brackets and ruff stuff heims. going for more frame side separation though. make sure the upper is a little longer than the lower. That's a somewhat debatable statement, all matters what the vehicle is primarily used for. For offroad, a longer upper is better to keep the pinion pointed at the transfer case under flex. For onroad, an equal length upper is better for caster angle. The thing you will notice the most in either situation though is the angle of the long arms, keep them as parallel as you can with the ground for best manners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanchedude Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I run the RC long arm system . love it. I upgraded the joints and the lower axle bushings to the new style Clevie type busing they use now. very nice system. I can't comment on advantage or disadvantage of 3, 4 or radius as all the reading on the subject does not provide any advantage for me. the system I have works perfect on and off road. as for cross member I have only removed tranny and or transfer case 1 time in 8 years so removable section on cross member is of no concern to me. what i like is the long arm upgrade was around $400.00 when i bought it and i have spent $50.00 to up grade joints in the last 4 years. so damn fine system in my opinion. i could have spent 3 to 4 times the money and would not have got any gains for my use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Has anybody thought about using tractor adjustable long arms? As ComancheCounty suggested Modify them and make your own. They're strong, and readily available at any farm, industrial outlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Yup... we went there: On the larger John Deere tractors that piece is all cast. Extremely robust and built to take a ridiculous amount of abuse. That's true. A ridiculous amount of abuse however also a little loose and clunky so everything lines up without much fuss. The problem comes in when someone sees them and thinks, "Yeah! These are cheap and they kinda look like those fancy rod end heim thingers that I see in those buggy magazines!" They are klunky and a little loose for a reason. When someone turns around and drives their rig on the street with those, then it turns into chasing the steering wheel around because their alignment won't stay true. I'll say it again just for good measure... they are klunky and a little loose for a reason. Flip through the Ghetto Fab thread on Pirate4x4 and you'll see tons of them! In lots of applications, I'd very much call them hack. In some situations where you want a ridiculously cheap trail rig that goes on a trailer to head to the trails I think they'd work out just fine. On the trail... plenty of flex and easy to find a replacement. On the road... scary and liable to kill a family of four in a minivan. So... with all that, and in the right application, they can work very well: Dude's username on here is Doc... hasn't been on in a long time, but I know him. He actually gets a ton of grief over his truck. It performs awesome! It also has the same tractor joints for upper and lower control arms both front and rear. Speaking of the rear... it's a Dana 35 with moly shafts and some (I think) 4.56 gears. He says that he's broken a few axles with it, but it was the type of lines where the tire got really pinched. Overall, it's a cool rig and quite the trail monster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I knew I had seen that somewhere but when I searched no find. Tnx Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrev10 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Yup... we went there: You know Duane eh? Didn't know that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neohic Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 You know Duane eh? Didn't know that. Over there in Princeton?... yup. We've talked a few times in the past. Last time was about a year ago when I picked up a set of coils off him. We've passed messages back a forth on MN-Jeep a bunch too. Neat little truck he's got. I would assume you know him too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COMJNUT Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 a lot of guys over in this region run the T&T Customs Y-Link. One of my friends has it and he beats the living snot out of his rig and it has lasted well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakesjeepmj1988 Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 a lot of guys over in this region run the T&T Customs Y-Link. One of my friends has it and he beats the living snot out of his rig and it has lasted well. i like that one alot, but a little pricy for me I'm only in high school and have no job. i will keep this one in mind tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COMJNUT Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 i like that one alot, but a little pricy for me I'm only in high school and have no job. i will keep this one in mind tho Here it is: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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