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Trucks! Comanche


motodh1983
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Please, PLEASE, do not take these guys advice, they are so full of crap and don't know anything about how suspensions work from how they explained and did everything. Guessing where stuff goes is not the way to do the vehicle correct and that flex was just a joke. I have a 3-link suspension that I built on my MJ and can easily get the rocker above the tire on a 38.5, and this is only on around a 6" lift (can do the same on a 4" if a notch the frame slightly and raise the front shocks, which I plan on doing).

 

First of all, do NOT mount the upper link on the frame sidewards like that. That limits flex MASSIVELY. Heims only give you about 22 degrees of misalignment in that position vs the endless amount of articulation if mounted straight up and down. If it's an offroad only rig (as they said it was) use heims for the lowers also as they are stronger than the cartridge flex type joint and are cheaper. If used on road then use the cartridge type joint on the uppers and lowers as they did just on the lowers.

 

Secondly, the panhard (track) bar doesn't just get mounted where it fits randomly. You need to match the drag link angle and length or you will get horrible bump steer and flex steer. With running the inverted-T setup steering, they really need to lower the axle end massively. If clearance is a concern then kick the track bar out towards the front or rear of the axle more, there's nothing saying that it has to be mounted in the factory position.

 

Third...Don't guess on how you want the shocks to go. Get everything done beforehand then measure for the shocks and see the length and mounting position needed. It is not hard to remove a shock to get to the control arm bolt if you wanted to mount the lower bracket in 180 off (so the angle iron has the flat part below the bolt instead of above). This could actually net you a longer shock which would give you more overall travel.

 

While rear flex and front flex are great by themselves, it is more important to match the flex from front to rear. They never did stuff the rear to see if the shock was long enough.

 

And more importantly, on the shocks, they did not adjust the bump stops or add limit straps. In my 3-link, the shocks are the only thing that really limit my droop while the control arms limit my stuff when they contact the frame. I max out 12" travel Bilstein 5150's with only ~4" of up travel and ~8" of down.

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First of all, do NOT mount the upper link on the frame sidewards like that. That limits flex MASSIVELY. Heims only give you about 22 degrees of misalignment in that position vs the endless amount of articulation if mounted straight up and down. If it's an offroad only rig (as they said it was) use heims for the lowers also as they are stronger than the cartridge flex type joint and are cheaper. If used on road then use the cartridge type joint on the uppers and lowers as they did just on the lowers.

 

I was wondering why on earth they decided to do that too.

 

As for the revolver shackles, I watched it again this morning to get a good look at it, and they are NOT revolver shackles. They are boomerang shackles. They work good on a lifted Cherokee to clear the end of the shackle "box", but don't do much if anything for a Comanche other than they are stronger than the stock ones.

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just curious as to where you got this information?

 

First hand. I ran a set of them on an XJ and it was scary. I almost totaled it during a panic stop when they unloaded under hard braking. I also had a great time at Tellico when they opened up on an off camber spot on Guardrail.

 

 

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I was wondering why on earth they decided to do that too.

 

As for the revolver shackles, I watched it again this morning to get a good look at it, and they are NOT revolver shackles. They are boomerang shackles. They work good on a lifted Cherokee to clear the end of the shackle "box", but don't do much if anything for a Comanche other than they are stronger than the stock ones.

 

I'm looking at them right now on my paused screen and they are definitely revolvers or revolver-esque. :thumbsup:

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What the sam hell is the purpose of the boomerang shackles? It doesn't seem like they would apply any sort of different leverage or anything... They are still attached by a piece of steel, with essentially a straight line between the two bolts. I could see if there was another attachment point or somehow changed the geometry of the shackle...

 

Can anyone explain the purpose? Or am I missing it completely?

Rob

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