kazzx Posted February 18, 2007 Posted February 18, 2007 Need some trouble shooting help. I can drive about 10 minutes before coolant starts bubbling out of the overflow. I have the dummy gages and am not sure if they even work. I changed the thermostat and water pump. I put the hose in the upper part of the engine and it ran smooth out the bottom. I am pretty lame when it comes to mechanics, whats next?
86FUBAR Posted February 18, 2007 Posted February 18, 2007 flush the radiator and check ur rad cap make sure its stil good and the right one
kazzx Posted February 18, 2007 Author Posted February 18, 2007 hmmm...I would check the cap if i could find it. Wierd! Image Not Found
razrwild Posted February 18, 2007 Posted February 18, 2007 that's the closed system isn't it? Could it be that there is air in the system? I'm asking these as questions since I don't have much experience with the closed systems and saw a thing about having to bleed air out of it. I'm going through the same thing now, figures as I'm going to rescue my gf out of a puddle my truck has problems lol.
DirtyComanche Posted February 18, 2007 Posted February 18, 2007 That's a closed system. The fill is in the bottle up by the windshield - hopefully. The cap on that bottle, and the bottle itself, have to be airtight. There is NO overflow on this system, and if there is one - somebody has been f'ing with it.
kazzx Posted February 18, 2007 Author Posted February 18, 2007 That's a closed system. The fill is in the bottle up by the windshield - hopefully. The cap on that bottle, and the bottle itself, have to be airtight. There is NO overflow on this system, and if there is one - somebody has been f'ing with it. Where is the bleeder?
DirtyComanche Posted February 18, 2007 Posted February 18, 2007 You bleed it by taking the cap off and pulling a couple donuts, then adding more coolant, then doing a couple more donuts, add more coolant and throw the cap back on. Going up and down a steep hill works too.
razrwild Posted February 18, 2007 Posted February 18, 2007 do a search on here. I remember seeing a write up on how to bleed the system. Something about loosening the temp sensor from the block just enough for air to escape and having the truck idle while the back end is raised higher than the front.
Eagle Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 Need some trouble shooting help. I can drive about 10 minutes before coolant starts bubbling out of the overflow. TIME ... OUT! This is in your 1987 Comanche? You don't have an "overflow." That plastic bottle on the passenger side of the firewall is NOT a coolant overflow recovery bottle. That bottle is part of the pressurized cooling system. If coolant is bubbling out of it, the bottle and/or the cap is most likely the problem. You can buy new ones (cap and bottle together, don't bother trying just the cap 'cause it probably won't seal to an old bottle) from Quadratec for around $20 or $25.
Oizarod115 Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 You don't have an "overflow." That plastic bottle on the passenger side of the firewall is NOT a coolant overflow recovery bottle. That bottle is part of the pressurized cooling system. If coolant is bubbling out of it, the bottle and/or the cap is most likely the problem. i was juuust about to say that.
kazzx Posted February 19, 2007 Author Posted February 19, 2007 Need some trouble shooting help. I can drive about 10 minutes before coolant starts bubbling out of the overflow. TIME ... OUT! This is in your 1987 Comanche? You don't have an "overflow." That plastic bottle on the passenger side of the firewall is NOT a coolant overflow recovery bottle. That bottle is part of the pressurized cooling system. If coolant is bubbling out of it, the bottle and/or the cap is most likely the problem. You can buy new ones (cap and bottle together, don't bother trying just the cap 'cause it probably won't seal to an old bottle) from Quadratec for around $20 or $25. Thanks... Coolant is pissing out of the the "overflow bottte" clearly mis named. I will purchase a new one. Do you have a link to a new one?
Rokhound Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 ebay you might be able to find one cheap there
87manche Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 quadratec has it, it's $20 to your door. it's made by crown automotive.
CWLONGSHOT Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 quadratec has it, it's $20 to your door.it's made by crown automotive. X2 Just buy it from here!! http://www.quadratec.com/products/51216_01.htm CW
BLHTAZ Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 You can bleed the system by parking the truck with the front end facing slightly down hill and removing the temp sensor that is in the left rear of the head. It screws straight down in just under the Map sensor on the firewall. Put plenty of fluid in the bottle then remove the sensor and allow a good flow of fluid to come out. You may notice a few air bubbles, but it should only take a few seconds then stick the sensor back in, tighten it and be sure to refill the bottle if needed. The closed system is a real pain in the @$$, so I now have all the parts needed to do a swap to an open style system and should be getting it done here soon so I can do a write up on it for anyone on here that wants to make the change. I have been waiting on the radiator as I wanted a 3-row and the one I ordered came in damamged the first time, so I had to wait on another :mad: .
Duner Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 Has anyone thought about using a moroso or summit radiator fill adapter in the upper hose and switching the heater control valve to the later system instead of buying a new radiator. I have seen several solutions to this conversion this just seemed like a less expensive and quicker fix. My closed system has had it's ups and downs but was working great after I put a new 3 row rad and a new pressure tank/cap during the summer, but it started acting up a few weeks ago. It seems like I don't have good flow through the system enen after a system flush. current temp 210 to 215, before problem 190 to 195. should I be looking fro something else. the bottle is not overflowing like it typically would if there was trapped air.
87manche Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... Switch.htm
Eagle Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 I haven't done that but I've seen it done, and it is reported to work just fine. Keep in mind, though, that it reduces cooling system capacity by about a quart. The plastic bottle on the firewall gets filled to the halfway level when cold. That allows the system to expand (building pressure) as it gets hot, without losing coolant. When you eliminate the bottle, you have to leave some air in the system, somewhere, to allow for expansion. Or -- you use a radiator cap with venting and attach an overflow catch/recovery bottle to the add-in filler neck, if it has a place to attach same. I chose a more expensive route, but I'm VERY happy with it. I use a Moroso aluminum racing surge tank in place of the plastic bottle. It takes a conventional radiator cap, plus it has provision to attach a small tube to an overflow/recovery bottle. So I can run the standard "closed" type radiator and not have to worry about adapting a sender for the auxiliary fan, I actually get MORE capacity in my system because I used the 1-1/2 quart tank and it gets filled completely, and I have no worries about the bottle splitting because the plastic got old. Summit sells the tanks. They aren't cheap, but you'll only buy it once.
kazzx Posted February 19, 2007 Author Posted February 19, 2007 Has anyone retrofitted a electric fan on the open side of the radiator? I havnt found anything on the search.
fiscus Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 Has anyone retrofitted a electric fan on the open side of the radiator? I havnt found anything on the search. On the condenser side? I don't think there's much room withall the header panel in there. I have a Renix electrical system, with a HO motor & open rad. I run the e-fan on a switch if I'm sitting & idling or trail-riding. otherwise I never switch it on & my temps never go over 210. I plan on going to dual-electric fans soon. I'm using a stock GC priamary e-fan & the oem XJ e-fan. The primary e-fan will be on with ignition (with a kill switch for water crossings) & the secondary e-fan will just be on a toggle switch. Hopefully this improves my MPG & will help on water crossings.
87manche Posted February 19, 2007 Posted February 19, 2007 I used an 8" high flow hayden fan on the emtpy side of the rad where the stock electric one was supposed to go. It flows much more air than a stock electric one, switched from the cab.
JeepcoMJ Posted February 20, 2007 Posted February 20, 2007 Has anyone thought about using a moroso or summit radiator fill adapter in the upper hose and switching the heater control valve to the later system instead of buying a new radiator. I have seen several solutions to this conversion this just seemed like a less expensive and quicker fix. My closed system has had it's ups and downs but was working great after I put a new 3 row rad and a new pressure tank/cap during the summer, but it started acting up a few weeks ago. It seems like I don't have good flow through the system enen after a system flush. current temp 210 to 215, before problem 190 to 195. should I be looking fro something else. the bottle is not overflowing like it typically would if there was trapped air. I have a moroso inline fller system in my MJ but I have a 3800 camaro engine in it. same principal, but I have a bleeder screw built into my engine. you can do it trust me, it's not as bad as you would think. here's a link to the rest of the project if you'd care to look. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... highlight= I'm putting a 3.4 camaro engine in my other 86, and with fuel injection as well.
Oizarod115 Posted February 20, 2007 Posted February 20, 2007 i think the number for the stock clutch fan was 2000 CFM IIRC, so if you replace your clutch fan make sure it's above 2000CFM rating, or you may be runnin a little warm at the redlights. more than you could ever need to know here at go-jeep. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoElectricFan.htm
carnuck Posted February 23, 2007 Posted February 23, 2007 NAPA sells the bottle with a new lid too, but I say chuck the sucker and put in a '91 rad with new heater hoses. I had a valve kicking around I hooked up for the flow on/off and it was easy. Don't forget a rad cap!
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