Alexia's 1987 To 1997 Comanche

[HOrnbrod]

Thanks Alex - PM sent.

[Waytard22]

I may have missed it but how did you run your ebrake cable and what cable did you use, I have my Cherokee cable attached but its too short, and my Comanche cable was no good. I can't get it inspected until I have a working ebrake :doh:

[johnj92131]

Don

 

Is their a supercharged PentaStar project in the future?

[HOrnbrod]

For me? No. For Jeep? :dunno:

 

Been seriously looking at and corresponding about the Eaton 90 side mount kit though. Just not sure how much good it'll do for the stroker though.

 

Sorry for cluttering up your build thread Alex.  :yes:

[Alexia]

I skipped a couple updates over here, but the short version of those updates is that I fried a $2,000 Haltech ECU that took me a while to get replaced.

 

I have been tidying up the wiring harness before doing the final application of split wire loom sheathing. Putting a single wrap of electrical tape around the wire bundles every six inches helps to keep single wires from pushing out or escaping from the wire loom due to vibration.

 

I will have to call Haltech tomorrow to have a lengthier discussion about how their alternator field control works. I have the necessary battery voltage and DPO wires separated to hook up to the field wires, but I am worried that it may full field the alternator.

 

The three loose wires next to the speedometer sensor are for the transfer case switch. The connector and switch for that is still in shipment. I never fixed that when I swapped from a NP232 to a NP242. The two unfinished connectors are waiting on confirmation on the alternator control setup.

 

Future thinking: The "BOOST CTRL" connector has two DPO wires and a battery voltage wire to hook up to a boost control solenoid. The engine from my LJ with the torn up camshaft is sitting elsewhere being used for exhaust manifold mock up.

 

[Alexia]

I have been diagnosing a power issue for the fuel pump on and off the past week. There was power at the relay terminals, but not at the pump. After some more careful looking I found that clip in the PDC that holds the power terminal on the relay had broken off. However, the terminal was under spring tension from the wire.

 

Push relay in: Terminal gets pushed away; terrible connection.

Pull relay out: Terminal pops back up looking like it is seated correctly.

 

Disclaimer: I do not know if the OPDA clocking is correct, but it is close. My timing light I just bought refuses to work. Also, this is the first start with no tuning done.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRMzCrMOCMo

 

[thecodemonk]

How do you like the haltech unit so far?  

I noticed all the wiring since you got it...have you had to re-wire everything to get it implemented or is that more of a "want to" thing (or just related to the turbo plans)?

[Alexia]

How do you like the haltech unit so far?  

 

I noticed all the wiring since you got it...have you had to re-wire everything to get it implemented or is that more of a "want to" thing (or just related to the turbo plans)?

The Haltech is basically a 100% complete solution. There is nothing I could not do with it provided that it has enough inputs and outputs.

 

If you do this yourself you can repin the engine PCM/ECU connectors to the Haltech AMP connectors instead of doing what I did. My vacuum system was shot and I suspected intermittent wiring faults with the injector wiring as well. Since I was going to be adding some non-standard sensors and solenoids I decide to rewire the whole engine.

[Alexia]

The CAN to CCD bus translator is ready to test in vehicle. Refresher: This lets the Haltech ECU talk to the Jeep gauge cluster and transmission controller.

 

I originally had a DAC in this design to send an analog TPS signal to the transmission controller. Which also included a logic level converter for the 3.3v to 5v conversion. I had a power supply and a LLC light on fire so I said, "Screw it, I will build my own transmission controller that uses CAN bus."

 

After a lot of frustration and lighting a few wires on fire the prototype is assembled. It passes all tests on the work bench so now I just have to test it in vehicle.

 

 

[RustInMyEye]

On 7/30/2012 at 1:19 AM, Alexia said:

 

 

 

Wire Harness Bolted and Sealed - Steering Shaft Bushing

 

Steering Shaft Bushing

 

 

Alexia!!! where can I find that Steering Shaft bushing!?!?!?!?!!?!?!?  Its looks brand new, do you have any recollection of where you got it? 

[Alexia]

I pulled it off the 1997 XJ donor.

[Manche/xj]

Iv got a big question for those who have swapped a comanche.I'm getting a body and fra me with a 1998 fire wall and dash. It only has the tittle for the 1998. Will.I need to get a builders title or will get hell if I use the cherokee if I ever get stopped thanks everyone!

[G00SE]

On 9/11/2017 at 12:48 PM, Alexia said:

I pulled it off the 1997 XJ donor.

Alexia,  

I'm getting ready to attempt what it appears you've already accomplished with my 89 2wd long bed I'm basically putting the dash, computer, wiring, drivetrain, front-end on my Comanche. Man, I wish you were my neighbor so I could buy you a beer and go to for advise....lol

[Jiffyamerica]

New here. Newb to forums. Does the Cherokee Comanche have the same mounting points to the frame rail? I have a 99 Cherokee xj was wanting to move my 88 Comanche over on to the xj frame. Or is there a lot more to it? 

[G00SE]

Jiffyamerica, the Cherokee/Comanche have what most refer to as a unibody.

So there's no removing the frame.

[Alexia]

I made an another adapter for a Fiat DBW throttle body off a 2.4L Tigershark engine in a junk yard Dodge Dart.  I just need to wire it up and test it.  Now that the home is more homely as I settle in I am getting time to get back to this.

 

[Sir Sam]

Alexia,

 

I have a drive by wire throttle body that is meant to be used standalone and accepts a CAN of it something that might help you. 

 

I think I have one or two I grabbed but I haven’t tested yet. 

 

Info:

http://www.woodward.com/LATsF.aspx

[Alexia]

14 hours ago, Sir Sam said:

Alexia,

 

I have a drive by wire throttle body that is meant to be used standalone and accepts a CAN of it something that might help you. 

 

I think I have one or two I grabbed but I haven’t tested yet. 

 

Info:

http://www.woodward.com/LATsF.aspx

 

This Fiat throttle body is actually working out amazingly.  I need to fix the idle control settings in the ECU, but it idles at 1,200 RPM with the throttle 10% open.  It keeps trying to snap back to the old 0.7% throttle idle and choking it.  The stock intake tube fits on tight, but it works.

 

[Sir Sam]

6 hours ago, Alexia said:

 

This Fiat throttle body is actually working out amazingly.  I need to fix the idle control settings in the ECU, but it idles at 1,200 RPM with the throttle 10% open.  It keeps trying to snap back to the old 0.7% throttle idle and choking it.  The stock intake tube fits on tight, but it works.

 

 

Cool. Is the throttle body CAN or does it take an analog or PWM signals to open? Does it have a integrated IAC valve?

 

what are you using for a TPS/APPS for this setup?

[Alexia]

13 minutes ago, Sir Sam said:

 

Cool. Is the throttle body CAN or does it take an analog or PWM signals to open? Does it have a integrated IAC valve?

 

what are you using for a TPS/APPS for this setup?

 

Just a PWM motor and analog TPS.  No IAC motor which is why I had to drop from the huge GM DBW to the smaller "Fiat"(It's actually a GEMA/Chrysler/Hyundai one) since the idle is dictated by the overall size of the throttle body and the stock at rest blade opening.  The APP/accelerator pedal is from some GM truck/SUV.

 

This new throttle body actually calibrated super fast, is quieter, and more responsive than the GM throttle body.

[Alexia]

New throttle body: 10% throttle is about 1,200 RPM.  I got all the idle control setup including high idle warm up.

 

Throttle tip-in is still hesitating and acting weird so it stumbles, jumps to 2,000 RPM, and does peg leg burn outs from every stop.

 

Then the battery died.  ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Alexia]

I stopped by Addicted Performance two weeks ago and now it drives pretty damn well with the smaller throttle body.  I still have a lot to do before the upcoming show.

 

1. Rear End Clang
2. Gas Tank Leak
3. Fuel Level Sensor
4. Finish Interior
5. Right Door Switch
6. Hide Haltech Fuse Box
7. Speedometer Sensor Loose Wire (Intermittent)
8. Clean Windows
9. Roll Bar
10. Roll Bar Brackets Powder Coating
11. Roll Bar/Bumper Bar Lights
12. Bedliner
13. Touch Up Undercoating
14. Air Conditioning

 

 

 

[Alexia]

Holding 200ºF on the temperature gauge after the heater core replacement!(Night time, so not stressed yet.)  No more wires in the driver's foot well anymore either.  The passenger foot well is another story since I routed the power accessory harness better there is extra that needs to be trimmed.  I have a batch of Molex connector pins arriving today so I can do that.  Now it is all loaded up on the tow dolly behind The Hulk to take to the differential shop in the morning to get a limited slip installed.  Scheduled to get the bedliner done at Line-X on Friday and Monday is air conditioning at a shop next to my work place.

 

[RedDemon90]

love this build. wish i could help but I'm 2 hours away from you lol..

[Alexia]

On 7/11/2018 at 6:34 PM, RedDemon90 said:

love this build. wish i could help but I'm 2 hours away from you lol..

 

It is all small one person tasks except for that roll bar.  I didn't realize how much of a puzzle it is to lift and sink into the bed under the rails.