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2001 Eliminator


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I wasn't stopping as well as I wanted to. Also had a bit of a pull to the passenger side during braking which was starting to concern me. The front brakes had been on for who knows how long, and the story wasnt much different for the rear brakes. Being the kind of person that doesnt leave much to chance, it was time to replace them with new rotors, calipers, and pads.

 

 

Passenger front wasn't doing so hot

 

But the new stuff at least looks pretty.

 

 

Stops a lot better now.

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So I went to order two of those sliding windows today (one dark, one grey).

 

Order was cancelled due to lack of stock.

 

Bummer.

 

I thought I was going to be helpful and let you know where I got mine, but its the same place that Mike got his.

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So it turns out that my order was cancelled because I had ordered one light grey and one dark grey. The web site indicated one dark grey in stock but I guess that wasn't accurate or it got bought minutes before I placed my order or something.

 

I was able to go back and order two windows with solar glass so I'm good provided they have it in stock and it ships.

 

FWIW, good service from the company when dealing with them on the phone and via email.

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One word of warning on that CRL slider. When you get it installed, it will not sit flush against the cab along the top and bottom. It will stick out about a quarter inch. The safelite tech that put mine in gave me a tube of urethane and told me when it was set to put the urethane in the oven on 150F for about 15 minutes to warm it up. Once warm, apply it along the gap and spread it to fill it in. The window is sealed fine, application of the additional urethane is purely for aesthetic value. Best way I found to spread it was to wear a rubber glove and dip your finger in glass cleaner to keep it from sticking to you. It spreads the bead into the gap and fills it nicely.

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One word of warning on that CRL slider. When you get it installed, it will not sit flush against the cab along the top and bottom. It will stick out about a quarter inch. The safelite tech that put mine in gave me a tube of urethane and told me when it was set to put the urethane in the oven on 150F for about 15 minutes to warm it up. Once warm, apply it along the gap and spread it to fill it in. The window is sealed fine, application of the additional urethane is purely for aesthetic value. Best way I found to spread it was to wear a rubber glove and dip your finger in glass cleaner to keep it from sticking to you. It spreads the bead into the gap and fills it nicely.

 

Also, the miters on the corners were not completely flush on mine. I filled them in with some black silicone just in case.

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Well, it made its inaugural run this morning. I decided to leave the car at home and take the truck to work. 13 mile drive and not a single issue so far. Was pleased at how nice it rides. I'm used to 4.5 inches of lift, short arms, and a kidney belt. The long arms really tamed down the rough ride quite a bit with 6.5 inches of lift. All the other systems seem to be running normal as well. The cruise control even worked...lol. A few runs like this to prove itself reliable and it should be time to hit some trails. However, I still have a couple more surprises to add to it before I consider it "finished".

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The tank I got from raybuck auto on the net. http://raybuck.com/i-66714-gas-tank-86- ... -o-fi.html

 

I specified the tank withOUT the sloshpan. The 97+ sending units float will contact the slosh pan in the original tank rendering it useless. The link is for the 18 gallon tank for a shortbed. If yours is a long bed you can also get the larger tank from them without the sloshpan as well.

 

The adapter ring i got at copperhead fab on the interweb as well. http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?acti ... ductid=203

 

Its listed for a TJ but fits the XJ pump assembly as well. On the inner ring, I had to grind the little locking nubs down some to fit together properly.

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The adapter ring i got at copperhead fab on the interweb as well. http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?acti ... ductid=203

 

Its listed for a TJ but fits the XJ pump assembly as well. On the inner ring, I had to grind the little locking nubs down some to fit together properly.

 

I was a little disappointed in the poor fitment despite the price. Something else I ran into was that with the pump on top of the tank, if you use the factory straps and j-bolts, the pump will contact the bottom of the bed. If you space the tank down, the j-bolts won't be long enough. I used some left over bump stops from a TJ spare tire mount to get the pump off the bottom of the bed and then used the longer j-bolts from my donor XJ. I'm not sure what Mike did, but just thought I'd give a heads up in case you ran into the same problem.

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Ditto what Ryan said. Personally, I used 3/4 inch square tube as spacers. I coated them in a brush on rubber then wrapped them in electrical tape. It was kind of ghetto, but it seems to be working fine.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just got a 1990 MJ and the previous owner told me about this site. First thing I did was the second gen front clip and thought about doing the whole swap. I then found this thread and it helped me make up my mind. I'll be attempting the swap this winter while using your great build thread as guidance. :thumbsup:

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