STERLING STINGER Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 i know it looks pretty simple changing my rear gear oil. take off the bolts let it drain out put sealant on it put bolts back on fill back up with fluid am i right? I'm just wondering if there are any tips you guys can give me so i don't make a rookie mistake. neither of them has been changed ever the 88 has well over 300k on it the 88 has 93k it should be interesting to see what comes out. oh yeah, its real hard to navigate to find a topic on this forum. I'm having a hard time in the search engine i typed in, changing gear oil and nothing really came up....so ok thanks! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Id buy 4-6 cans of brake cleaner as well and spray out all you can while the cover is off the Diff. Otherwise thats about all there is 2 it, just hope with that many miles that noting big and metal falls out with the fluid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy21669 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 i know it looks pretty simple changing my rear gear oil.take off the bolts let it drain out put sealant on it put bolts back on fill back up with fluid am i right? I'm just wondering if there are any tips you guys can give me so i don't make a rookie mistake. neither of them has been changed ever the 88 has well over 300k on it the 88 has 93k it should be interesting to see what comes out. oh yeah, its real hard to navigate to find a topic on this forum. I'm having a hard time in the search engine i typed in, changing gear oil and nothing really came up....so ok thanks! Paul :clapping: :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I'd make sure to use permatex "ultra black" rtv sealant. (most oil & gas resistant) After sealing everything up I like to wait till the next day before filling, gives the sealant plenty of time to "cure." Don't get crazy on tightening the cover bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 I'd make sure to use permatex "ultra black" rtv sealant. (most oil & gas resistant) After sealing everything up I like to wait till the next day before filling, gives the sealant plenty of time to "cure." Don't get crazy on tightening the cover bolts. i know about the bolts not being too torqued down but filling? idk what that means????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I'd make sure to use permatex "ultra black" rtv sealant. (most oil & gas resistant) After sealing everything up I like to wait till the next day before filling, gives the sealant plenty of time to "cure." Don't get crazy on tightening the cover bolts. i know about the bolts not being too torqued down but filling? idk what that means????? What he means is after putting the cover back on, wait until the next day to fill the diff back up with gear oil. Personally, I have never had a problem using either blue or red sealant and filling the diff directly after installing the cover. And I seem to be changing the gear oil about monthly because I somehow usually end up with water in at least one of the axles after a weekend off road. My daughter (14 years old) likes deep water and mud pits WAY too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 After some issues with regular RTV being eaten away by gear lube, I suggest you ONLY use RTV Ultra Black. You've got the procedure spot on. If you have a bad pinion or wheel seal, the time to do it is when you're swapping fluid btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritas4156 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 IIRC, the only difference between regular black and ultra black is that Ultra is sensor safe. If you're gonna use black might as well use the cheap stuff. I personally use red and have never had a problem. I literally use the stuff on everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 oh...i read it wrong. i thought filling had something to do with putting the sealant on...not filling up with the fluid..lol...thanks guys. how would i go about checking to see if everythings ok in there. i bave no effin clue. its virgin terrain to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheech Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 While kinda on the topic of RTV, has anyone ever tried "the right stuff" made by permatex? I used to use Ultra Black all the time, but have switched to this stuff. Its more expensive, but come in a caulking tube and takes no time to cure either where Ultra Black takes 24 hours. I really like it, and have never had anything leak! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 look at it pretty much. youll know once your in there if you have any problems. changing diff oil is a very easy thing to do. just fill it up until it pours back out, then plug. id paint up the ole cover while your at it. gives it a nice look about it :D i also use the red RTV and have had no problems. i did wait a night before putting in the new oil though to let it cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Metal chunks=bad Dirty oil=OK Metallic flecks in the oil=wear, not necessarily a bad thing. Changing out old oil-priceless. BTW try less words in the search feature.IE "gear oil" instead of change or changing gear oil. Other search topics could be: differential cover, Dana 30 oil, etc. Try not to use "ing" that makes it a verb, not a subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 what he said. plus if you ever can't find a topic, don't hesitate, don't apologize, just ask. that's what we're here for. :thumbsup: My tube of black was too old to use and so I grabbed the blue silicone. guess we'll see how long it lasts before it leaks. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 to expand on 64chyenne's post. "milky" looking oil = bad(water in oil check your seals) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Both my axles looked like chocolate milk last week. Front axle has been rebuilt three months ago,, and no leaking seals. Don't know how it got in. Rear axle probably came in through the breather tube as the water was over the bed floor, so definitely over the frame rail where the breather ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I'm putting synthetic in mine tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleag89 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 What kind of fluid should I use in my front D30? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 is the synthetic better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 yes. will you notice a difference if you put it in your front axle? probably not. 80w90 is all the front axle needs. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 I'm just doing the rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 'bout the same. for really heavy duty use, up that to 75w-140. if you have posi, be sure to grab the right additive too. Synth is better. the big question is whether or not it matters in any specific application. if it makes you feel better to know you've got the additional protection of full synth, go for it. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 is this better to do hot? is there a trick or something i need to know to pry the cover off without bending it? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted October 13, 2010 Author Share Posted October 13, 2010 and...what color do u guys think i should paint the cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 cold works fine. as long as you don't get hot gear oil all over you, you're good. for removing the cover, I use a combination of driving a stiff scraper or chisel in between the cover and housing, or smacking the housing sideways with a rubber or wooden mallot. usually one technique or the other will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted October 13, 2010 Share Posted October 13, 2010 leave a couple of the top cover bolts (or at least the center top one) loosely threaded into the axle, and have a large drain pan placed underneath. Use a stiff bladed putty knife or similar tool and pry the cover loose from the side.....when the old sealant breaks free, the bolt(s) will keep the cover from falling off and sending the old gear oil everywhere but into the drain pan. Gear oil has a unique odor, and you either love it or hate it. Use rags you don't plan on reusing if you hate the smell, it lingers ;) Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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