mvusse Posted November 14, 2010 Posted November 14, 2010 I'm willing to bet the pop is the frame end of the track bar. Hole in the bracket is probably wallowed out. That would also explain the truck shifting sideways over the axle.
skidoo_j Posted November 20, 2010 Author Posted November 20, 2010 my celebration was premature. Got the popping resolved... Turned out to be wrong adapter on the stabilizer. So i decided to drive 300 miles with the truck because it was all good, haha. well At least I'm able to refine the wobble. At 55 mph in 4th gear, 3.54 gears, 31x10.5 tires when driving in the up and down wows caused by semi trucks if long enough exposure death wobble occurs. I noticed however if i was going over 55 the likely hood reduced, and also found that if I sort of spooned in and out of the tire ruts it did not happen, so a little bit of back and forth. I did find at end of my trip i have some play in my steering box, about 3/8 (not quite 1/4 but less than 1/2 so a guess). I can't see that contributing to cause it. I"m thinking from this point it's one of the tie rod ends even though the alignment shop said they were good, but these were the same peeps who said the ball joints were good and both lowers were toast. also thinking it would be advantageous for me to repair the floppy tilt wheel as maybe i'm loosing some of the feedback that would be beneficial in diagnosing this.
skidoo_j Posted November 20, 2010 Author Posted November 20, 2010 Here is a list of tools That i've read through the "how to" to compile to fix the steering wheel flop, any other suggestions? autozone rental part numbers 27044 steering plate holder 25200 wheel puller Pin puller: 8-32 1 3/4 screw plus nuts and washer through a 3/8" drive 9/16" socket bolt removers e8 torx socket http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jeepju ... /tilt.html http://brackmann.org/berkeley/Jeep/wren ... gwheel.htm any other tools anyones used to correct a loose tilt wheel and approx time for first time through?
87Warrior Posted November 20, 2010 Posted November 20, 2010 You may also want to check the Unit Bearings (hub assembly) for play. These were a cause to the wobble my TJ had.
skidoo_j Posted November 20, 2010 Author Posted November 20, 2010 You may also want to check the Unit Bearings (hub assembly) for play. These were a cause to the wobble my TJ had. just took my dad for a ride. and he said same thing. He said if tie rods were bad i could not corner as i can. Thought bearings or rear drive line being at such an angle. just happens to cause bounce etc.
skidoo_j Posted November 22, 2010 Author Posted November 22, 2010 on way back an addtl 250 miles i found that when the wobble begins if i accelerate it seemed to snap me out of the wild shaking before it happens. Or a sharp turn. Hoping all this time the start of the wobble was not in the drive shaft. Will be checking angles again as things have settled a bit since the rear axle swap.
mvusse Posted November 22, 2010 Posted November 22, 2010 Sharp turn can almost always prevent it as it forces everything to one side. Accelerating shifts the weight back, changing your front suspension geometry. Even though a drive shaft vibration COULD technically set off DW, I highly doubt this is the case. Either way, the problem is still something in the front suspension and/or steering allowing DW to happen. If you can't find it, a new steering stabilizer will "fix" (hide) it also as it sounds like your current one is shot. But when everything is working the way it's supposed to, a steering stabilizer should not even be needed. What all have you checked/inspected so far? What all have you replaced so far?
shelbyluvv Posted November 23, 2010 Posted November 23, 2010 I am still putting my money on the cRusty's track bar.
skidoo_j Posted November 23, 2010 Author Posted November 23, 2010 Sharp turn can almost always prevent it as it forces everything to one side. Accelerating shifts the weight back, changing your front suspension geometry. Even though a drive shaft vibration COULD technically set off DW, I highly doubt this is the case. Either way, the problem is still something in the front suspension and/or steering allowing DW to happen. If you can't find it, a new steering stabilizer will "fix" (hide) it also as it sounds like your current one is shot. But when everything is working the way it's supposed to, a steering stabilizer should not even be needed. What all have you checked/inspected so far? What all have you replaced so far? There is a new stabilizer (rs5000 series rancho) New control arms new track bar New upper lower ball joints (moog) new shocks new springs all items have been swapped attempting to fix this death wobble. all tie rod ends seem very solid.
mvusse Posted November 23, 2010 Posted November 23, 2010 My bet is on the frame side track bar bracket. It is not unusual for the hole to get wallowed out. I'm assuming with the new control arms came new control arm bushings? Did you lift the vehicle (sorry, don't have time to read back through this thread). If so, did you readjust the toe-in?
Incommando Posted November 23, 2010 Posted November 23, 2010 I new track bar won't fix the mounting hole problem mentioned above. This is not an uncommon problem, and it would explain your continued DW.
mkbruin Posted November 23, 2010 Posted November 23, 2010 Put the front axle on jack stands and block the rear. Have a friend or family member sit in the cab and cycle the steering back and forth. Look for play or movement at ANY joint. Both ends track bar. Both ends control arms. All TRE's. Steering box. If the aluminum spacer behind the steering box is cracked (common failure) you can get DW (as well as clunks when turning). If the steering box is bad, you can have play that can cause the DW. If the track bar mount at the frame is wollowed, DW. If caster angle is off, DW Re-torque EVERYTHING.
skidoo_j Posted November 24, 2010 Author Posted November 24, 2010 My bet is on the frame side track bar bracket. It is not unusual for the hole to get wallowed out. I'm assuming with the new control arms came new control arm bushings? Did you lift the vehicle (sorry, don't have time to read back through this thread). If so, did you readjust the toe-in? yes lifted about 4" Yes had alignment the said caster was fine set toe. still wobble took to another alignment shop they found the lower passenger side ball bad i replaced all 4. i thought it was fixed as it went away under 50. as was happening at 40's then happened at 55 ish not as bad as prior. but still oh also changed from oem stabilzer that was new to the rancho when did ball joints
skidoo_j Posted November 24, 2010 Author Posted November 24, 2010 If the aluminum spacer behind the steering box is cracked (common failure) you can get DW (as well as clunks when turning). If the steering box is bad, you can have play that can cause the DW. If caster angle is off, DW Re-torque EVERYTHING. i do have play in the steering box how much is allowed?? How can i verify if castor is correct. I really just guessed on length and the alignment shop said yeah its' fine. i' put the steering reinforcement in already too.
skidoo_j Posted November 28, 2010 Author Posted November 28, 2010 Installed a posi-loc 920 and fixed my floppy tilt steering column. Night and day difference driving with a wheel that doesnt flop all arround
skidoo_j Posted December 5, 2010 Author Posted December 5, 2010 steering is way different with the wheel not flopping arround. I still havn't had a chanc to go out and try for wobble. it has not done it or started to but have not really gon over 45mph since last changes.
skidoo_j Posted December 6, 2010 Author Posted December 6, 2010 Death wobble is gone. Although this maybe as before be premature. The final issues: Two bad lower ball joints. Incorrect spacer in stabilizer Way out of balance tires
SW86 Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 id also like to know how to check caster angles. my DW was a bad trac bar end and loose. i know i have bad ball joints on the drivers side but they don't seem to cause it.
Pete M Posted December 7, 2010 Posted December 7, 2010 got one of these? slap it on top of your balljoints
skidoo_j Posted April 18, 2011 Author Posted April 18, 2011 I"m at a loss. I can't think of anything that has not been replaced. I've even gotten rid of the Rusty's bushing in the track bar. I did however do a bit of wheeling and noticed my toe is about 3/4" so i'm going to adjust that, Wondering if wheels are out of balance again. Anyone replaced the steering gear box to eliminate DW. I noticed there is a bit of play in the shaft.
mvusse Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 I"m at a loss. I can't think of anything that has not been replaced. I've even gotten rid of the Rusty's bushing in the track bar. I did however do a bit of wheeling and noticed my toe is about 3/4" so i'm going to adjust that, Wondering if wheels are out of balance again. Anyone replaced the steering gear box to eliminate DW. I noticed there is a bit of play in the shaft. Including track bar frame end bracket?
Eagle Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 I"m at a loss. I can't think of anything that has not been replaced. I've even gotten rid of the Rusty's bushing in the track bar. I did however do a bit of wheeling and noticed my toe is about 3/4" so i'm going to adjust that, Wondering if wheels are out of balance again. Anyone replaced the steering gear box to eliminate DW. I noticed there is a bit of play in the shaft. Wheel balance would be my guess. Especially if the DW is now kicking in at 55 MPH. Dunno why, but 55 seems to be the magic threshold for when out-of-balance tires start to show the effects.
JeffN Posted April 18, 2011 Posted April 18, 2011 Tires may be in balance but check for an out of round condition or a broken belt in the tire, try moving the backs to the front
skidoo_j Posted April 19, 2011 Author Posted April 19, 2011 Passenger side threw 1.5 oz weight. that couldnt be enough to start death wobble is it?
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