Bad oil filter ? . . .

[FrankTheDog]

I run strictly castrol gtx or Mobil 1 10w-30. All my engines are very high miles. 200k plus with one at 370k all original.

I change the filters at somewhere between 4k and 7k whenever I have the time.

Filters have been a mixture of Fram, Wix and Motorcraft. I haven't been able to tell the difference between them.

All my engines get more than 3k before they need a quart.

A good part of that is leakage.

Pressure is around 50-60 when hot.

Never have used additives.

I've never had an engine failure of any kind. But then most of the vehicles I buy are high mileage from original owners. If they kept it for a 150k plus, it must of been a good vehicle.

Then my wife and I put 30k on a year each.

This isn't rocket science, don't over think it. Try 10w-30 before you do anything else.

[carnuck]

The Fram filter collapses internally and the material blocks the oil from getting out. My '91 E350 with a 460 in it almost had to get a new motor because of this. I got lucky and reverse flushed the oil gallery with ATF and my tire compressor with the filter off. The pile of CRAP that came from the filter that imploded plugged off the oil gallery and caused cam and crank scoring.

[cruiser54]

The Fram filter collapses internally and the material blocks the oil from getting out. My '91 E350 with a 460 in it almost had to get a new motor because of this. I got lucky and reverse flushed the oil gallery with ATF and my tire compressor with the filter off. The pile of CRAP that came from the filter that imploded plugged off the oil gallery and caused cam and crank scoring.

 

And all along i've been thinking the Frams only stunk on Jeeps....

[knever3]

Wow. The only problem I had with Fram was partially my fault. I put one on my '98 XJ and started it, watched the oil pressure heard a hissing noise and noticed fresh oil squirting all over the ground. I shut it off to find I forgot to remove the old gasket that stuck on the block. Oops, my bad. It just was strange the oil pressure never came up before the gasket failed.

 

Fram never again.

 

As a side note I use Ams oil filters on my car, Bosh distance on my Comanche and chrysler filters on my Hemi GC. This is what I have found to be the right filter for my application and use.

[Lewt2007]

i switched to Casterol gtx high mileage with a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer in mine it has 130 on the second motor. i had the boys at the quick lube at the wal-mart store i worked for change the oil for me and have had no problems whatsoever with the fram filter for the 4.0 sad thing is all of them are made the same place they just put a different canister on the outside but are pretty much the same inside i have 60 pounds of oil pressure on first start up and it stays around 60 pounds running hot.

[ComancheKid45]

I work @ an Auto parts store and have cut open nearly every filter we stock, and i can tell you there is distinct differences between most them inside, so i have to dissagree on the simple "canister swap" conclusion ;)

 

As for oil itself, better watch out guys. the standards are killing off zinc rich oils and you start running an oil with less than tolarable zinc content no matter whos names on the bottle (theyre ALL doing it), kiss your camshafts and engines goodbye :(

[cruiser54]

You're drinking the kool-aid on Fram...........

[HOrnbrod]

As for oil itself, better watch out guys. the standards are killing off zinc rich oils and you start running an oil with less than tolarable zinc content no matter whos names on the bottle (theyre ALL doing it), kiss your camshafts and engines goodbye :(

 

Not ALL (as of now, but maybe later). Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w40. It meets API classification SM for older engines, and still has a cam healthy 1300 ppm zinc count, one of the few remaining. Been using it for years and will continue until the zinc count goes south. They even sell it in Walmart now. :D

[DREDnot]

What part # filter are you using?

Is it a metric thread filter?

 

I thought there were certain year and earlier jeep filters that had a check valve in the block and later filters had the valve built in.

[mvusse]

As for oil itself, better watch out guys. the standards are killing off zinc rich oils and you start running an oil with less than tolarable zinc content no matter whos names on the bottle (theyre ALL doing it), kiss your camshafts and engines goodbye :(

 

Not ALL (as of now, but maybe later). Chevron Delo 400 LE 15w40. It meets API classification SM for older engines, and still has a cam healthy 1300 ppm zinc count, one of the few remaining. Been using it for years and will continue until the zinc count goes south. They even sell it in Walmart now. :D

 

Mobil 1 high mileage is still API SL, and stocked at Walmart.

 

Most oils advertised for 4 cycle motorcycles are API SF, SG, SJ, but usually higher weight like 15W40.

[mountainman]

For zinc additives..

 

run

 

http://www.zddplus.com/

 

Also

 

http://www.cam-shield.com/

 

I deal with this specifically on all my aircooled engine builds and any old flat tappet engine i build. Lots of mustang stuff.

 

I hadnt even thought of it for the jeep folks. (just dippin my toes in the water with jeep stuff)

 

I have spoken with many oil companies specifically about this issue and so i can shed some light on the subject. SOLID info too, not bull$#!& as i build a lot of engines and have a perfect rep for some of the fastest and reliable stuff out there.

 

As of late yes they are pulling the zinc out of the oils.

 

Ok do you need to be worried about losing a cam on your high mileage engine do to lowered levels of zinc?.....

 

NO.

 

once the cam and lifters have work hardened they are good to go and can withstand nearly no zinc and still stay alive.

The most critical time is when the new parts are "breaking in" with each other and the cam and lifters are work hardening each other.

Zinc is extra critical at this time. It would even be good to use some zinc additive for say the first 5k miles just to be safe.

 

But on most of our jeep engines that have 100-200k miles... the working surfaces are so hardened that nothing can affect them.

 

Now if you want an oil that has a solid zinc content in it, say your breaking in a new cam/lifters.

Your going to want to run the brad penn break in oil, or the joe gibbs break in oil.

They are the only 2 that actually formulate specifically for the flat tappet market.

 

When i spoke with valvoline they said their VR1 line has the highest zinc of any of their oils, So that is also an option though i have not tested it myself yet. :)

 

 

I currently run valvoline 10/30 or 10/40 in my stuff and add the zddplus.

No issues to date.

 

Most of my clients run brad penn as once i have them break the cam in on the stuff, they fall in love with it and its green color...lol.

 

Hope this helps. :) dave

[cruiser54]

For zinc additives..

 

run

 

http://www.zddplus.com/

 

Also

 

http://www.cam-shield.com/

 

I deal with this specifically on all my aircooled engine builds and any old flat tappet engine i build. Lots of mustang stuff.

 

I hadnt even thought of it for the jeep folks. (just dippin my toes in the water with jeep stuff)

 

I have spoken with many oil companies specifically about this issue and so i can shed some light on the subject. SOLID info too, not $#!& as i build a lot of engines and have a perfect rep for some of the fastest and reliable stuff out there.

 

As of late yes they are pulling the zinc out of the oils.

 

Ok do you need to be worried about losing a cam on your high mileage engine do to lowered levels of zinc?.....

 

NO.

 

once the cam and lifters have work hardened they are good to go and can withstand nearly no zinc and still stay alive.

The most critical time is when the new parts are "breaking in" with each other and the cam and lifters are work hardening each other.

Zinc is extra critical at this time. It would even be good to use some zinc additive for say the first 5k miles just to be safe.

 

But on most of our jeep engines that have 100-200k miles... the working surfaces are so hardened that nothing can affect them.

 

Now if you want an oil that has a solid zinc content in it, say your breaking in a new cam/lifters.

Your going to want to run the brad penn break in oil, or the joe gibbs break in oil.

They are the only 2 that actually formulate specifically for the flat tappet market.

 

When i spoke with valvoline they said their VR1 line has the highest zinc of any of their oils, So that is also an option though i have not tested it myself yet. :)

 

 

I currently run valvoline 10/30 or 10/40 in my stuff and add the zddplus.

No issues to date.

 

Most of my clients run brad penn as once i have them break the cam in on the stuff, they fall in love with it and its green color...lol.

 

Hope this helps. :) dave

 

Thanks Dave. Well put.

[cruiser54]

What part # filter are you using?

Is it a metric thread filter?

 

I thought there were certain year and earlier jeep filters that had a check valve in the block and later filters had the valve built in.

 

258s Had a check valve in the block and no oil filter adapter. I've swapped Renix and HO oil filter adapters and seen no check valves. If you have a Renix 4.0 and want to use the SAE threaded oil filters, go to the dealership and buy the nipple for the HO engine and swap it with yours. I think it's about $3.

 

Do not gamble with cheapie oil filters.