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RENIX 4.0l, aw4, 231 .. came with 215/75/r15's and that god awful plastic wood box


swapped in a disc 8.8 SOA .. rebuilt the rear spring pack with a dodge caravan pack, not sure about that, might be too soft but it sits with the packs super flat and it flexes pretty good for junker .. rusty's 3" front springs with a 2" boost .. edelbrock shocks all around .. RE trackbar, bracket and brace, and LCA's .. BDS discos .. tj rims and 32" bfg mt's


rebuilt the entire brake system and ran new steel lines .. open rad conversion .. mall crawler bumper w/ hellas .. 2k front clip and mirrors .. frame welding-o-rama .. a bunch of jy upgrades; s10 smushy steering wheel, nissan over flow bottle yada yada yada


still to do list;


-swap in dodge durango power buckets and console

-patch floor and rhino line

-HO head and intake swap, keeping the RENIX tb and sensors

-rebuild the flatbed with steel

-rear slider window

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  • 1 month later...

never deliver a spare tire to a guy on a trail if you have only tack welded your dif




if you look closely you'll see the dif is spun right around backwards .. took out the driveshaft adapter flange, brake lines and hoses, u joint, smacked up the gas tank a little and ate the exhaust hanger .. then i burned out the t-case trying to get home in front wheel drive without the rear driveshaft powering the t-case oil pump


the 231 is hitting the scrap heap, switched it for a 242 .. new brake hoses and adapter flange thanks to ebay .. good excuse to 86 the retarded bed, do minor frame repairs and build a new upper shock mount/cross bar




the bed was made of some weird plastic wood product held on by rusted carriage bolts .. gonna cut off the sides, leave the old bed frame and build a flatty on top .. trim the front fenders and run 35's

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i put 2 one inch beads on each spring perch put everything together, liked the way everything sat and then completely forgot to finish weld it .. a month or so, and a couple of thousand street miles later i got up over a huge rock on the trail, and thought to myself "did i remember to weld that ...." and than an ungodly ripping sound, which i assume was the flange ears snapping, the thrashing driveshaft noises and a heart stopping huge clunk


long story short the welds gave out and the tubes spun in the u bolts

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atleast the drive shaft didnt go flying into your gas tank :D


there's some decent scuffs in the tank, but thankfully no leakers .. i think the reconstruction might include some kind of driveshaft loop

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old and new adapter flanges .. oops, catastrophic failure on left




old rotten x member out .. ready for new crossmember/upper shock dangler, and frame repair .. frame is worse than i thought especially on driver's side .. pics to follow



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remove ugly cancer




clean up rust and vacumn 3 inches of sand from the 'frame'




cut new piece from diamond plate, burn holes for rosette welds, et voila !!




discover there's no mig mix left in the gas bottle; PRICELESS !!! :oops:

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  • 2 months later...



took out the 13 gallon mj tank and put in a 23 gallon xj tank behind the rear axle .. it's a farm truck not a trail rig .. an air tank hooked up to a york compressor from an old dodge cop car and second battery hooked via a continuous duty solenoid will go where the old tank lived




used a tj filler neck minus the fancy plastic collar .. it'll be under the flat bed when the wood goes on




did some frame repair



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thanks :cheers:


right now my plans are to get it back on the road before the snow flies .. i have to strip the fuel and brake lines and beef up the unibody, build a t-case support/skid plate, put the sliding window in, put a new exhaust in, fix the floor ....... it's never ending :wall:

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then i burned out the t-case trying to get home in front wheel drive without the rear driveshaft powering the t-case oil pump

The rear driveshaft doesn't power the pump, the mainshaft inside the case does. But it's all for nothing if there's no SYE or cover/plug to prevent the fluid from leaking out the tailhousing.

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