anthony

where did you get the new fuse block, and where do you find new terminals ???

thanks .. i didn't even know that part existed :)

nice interior .. looks like cherokee limited leather buckets ???

The rear driveshaft doesn't power the pump, the mainshaft inside the case does. But it's all for nothing if there's no SYE or cover/plug to prevent the fluid from leaking out the tailhousing. i stand corrected

thanks :cheers: right now my plans are to get it back on the road before the snow flies .. i have to strip the fuel and brake lines and beef up the unibody, build a t-case support/skid plate, put the sliding window in, put a new exhaust in, fix the floor ....... it's never ending :wall:

update took out the 13 gallon mj tank and put in a 23 gallon xj tank behind the rear axle .. it's a farm truck not a trail rig .. an air tank hooked up to a york compressor from an old dodge cop car and second battery hooked via a continuous duty solenoid will go where the old tank lived used a tj filler neck minus the fancy plastic collar .. it'll be under the flat bed when the wood goes on did some frame repair

i put the 60/40 s10 seats in one of my old mjs .. just cut off the old base below the slider, built a frame out of square tube, welded on tabs and bolted it in .. a little bit of a learning curve one the passenger side because it went over the tunnel, the driver's side went in like a glove .. one tip, use a level across the seat from door to door or you'll have to take them out and do it over because it will look goofy from outside the back window durango power buckets like above are going in my present daily driver .. doing the same thing as the s10 seats

a lot of 8.8's are 3.73 geared, come with a great disc brake set up and are a pretty easy swap with the right d/s flange

remove ugly cancer clean up rust and vacumn 3 inches of sand from the 'frame' cut new piece from diamond plate, burn holes for rosette welds, et voila !! discover there's no mig mix left in the gas bottle; PRICELESS !!! :oops:

old and new adapter flanges .. oops, catastrophic failure on left old rotten x member out .. ready for new crossmember/upper shock dangler, and frame repair .. frame is worse than i thought especially on driver's side .. pics to follow

i know, total bonehead move :roll:

tough mj :cheers:

good excuse to build it better :cheers:

sweet

there's some decent scuffs in the tank, but thankfully no leakers .. i think the reconstruction might include some kind of driveshaft loop

i put 2 one inch beads on each spring perch put everything together, liked the way everything sat and then completely forgot to finish weld it .. a month or so, and a couple of thousand street miles later i got up over a huge rock on the trail, and thought to myself "did i remember to weld that ...." and than an ungodly ripping sound, which i assume was the flange ears snapping, the thrashing driveshaft noises and a heart stopping huge clunk long story short the welds gave out and the tubes spun in the u bolts

never deliver a spare tire to a guy on a trail if you have only tack welded your dif if you look closely you'll see the dif is spun right around backwards .. took out the driveshaft adapter flange, brake lines and hoses, u joint, smacked up the gas tank a little and ate the exhaust hanger .. then i burned out the t-case trying to get home in front wheel drive without the rear driveshaft powering the t-case oil pump the 231 is hitting the scrap heap, switched it for a 242 .. new brake hoses and adapter flange thanks to ebay .. good excuse to 86 the retarded bed, do minor frame repairs and build a new upper shock mount/cross bar the bed was made of some weird plastic wood product held on by rusted carriage bolts .. gonna cut off the sides, leave the old bed frame and build a flatty on top .. trim the front fenders and run 35's

thanks high2by $600jeepmj .. :yes: :agree:

i like the way you roll sir i got a friend who just picked up the same engine for his mj .. his is from a cj10 IIRC, with a 727 with a jeep t-case pattern .. what are you gonna do about cooling ?? i can't imagine the stock rad is up to the task .. he was toying with the idea of using a vw oil/coolant heat exchanger and routing some heat back to a waste veggie oil tank, but i still don't think it's that viable .. i guess if you're gonna wheel it you can just stick the biggest jy rad you can find in the bed, but he wants to DD his any tips i can pass along ???

hahaha .. yes sir .. it's coming off

RENIX 4.0l, aw4, 231 .. came with 215/75/r15's and that god awful plastic wood box swapped in a disc 8.8 SOA .. rebuilt the rear spring pack with a dodge caravan pack, not sure about that, might be too soft but it sits with the packs super flat and it flexes pretty good for junker .. rusty's 3" front springs with a 2" boost .. edelbrock shocks all around .. RE trackbar, bracket and brace, and LCA's .. BDS discos .. tj rims and 32" bfg mt's rebuilt the entire brake system and ran new steel lines .. open rad conversion .. mall crawler bumper w/ hellas .. 2k front clip and mirrors .. frame welding-o-rama .. a bunch of jy upgrades; s10 smushy steering wheel, nissan over flow bottle yada yada yada still to do list; -swap in dodge durango power buckets and console -patch floor and rhino line -HO head and intake swap, keeping the RENIX tb and sensors -rebuild the flatbed with steel -rear slider window

thanks cw .. that is great info/tech sir

i've done this conversion a few times .. decent rad at the wreckers - $30 to $60 bucks .. 6 or 7 feet from a spool of 3/4" heater hose - probably $10 .. new hose clamps - $10 .. an updated cooling system complete for well under a $100 use a good sized mountain dew bottle zip tied to the rad support as an overflow bottle .. get rid of the heater valve, works great .. the only trouble i ever had with this conversion is those stupid connectors for the tranny cooler .. they always leak, i just cut them off and double hose clamp any rubber to metal connections

up here in canadia we some stuff called CLR .. i'm sure you guys have it too or something similar .. calcium, lime and rust remover http://www.live-the-organic-life.com/calcium-lime-rust-remover.html remove the heater hoses at the engine block and drain all you can .. put a funnel in one end and raise them both up higher than the heater core .. fill the funnel up with CLR .. walk away .. lower the hoses and drain into a bucket, don't worry it doesn't freeze .. repeat on the other side .. i take a rag and block the hose a bit and blow some air through to help get the crud out .. works a treat ive done this operation 20 or 30 times and had great success .. one time i had to do it twice on a really badly neglected vehicle .. hope this helps buddy

when you step on the go pedal does the throttle blade clear the fins ???