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Removal and replacement of my slider back window

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When I got this 88 MJ (Megan Joy) the middle slider window was broken.



I would have just replaced the center piece of glass but I couldn't see any way of doing this without pulling and replacing the whole window anyway.

This is what I did to fix it:


Removed the rubber gasket like this, top and bottom, from the middle, no damage, you have to do the top corners first as the bottoms are a little tight, with the tops loose, you get a little more play in getting the bottom corners loose.





Through the corners.



Gasket out, undamaged.



BTW the only "tools" I used to get the gasket out with are the ones I'm typing with. I've removed three of them this way.


I used a piece of bicycle brake cable about 3' long, unraveled a couple of strands out of it to give it some 'Bite."




Then fished it through one of the lower corners where I pushed a skinny screwdriver through to make kind of a "pilot hole"

grabbed both ends with vice grips, sawed all the way around till the window was out.





Couple things to note: the frame from the slider makes it kind of difficult to get around the glass channels, top, and bottom, but not impossible. A regular non slider back glass would come out much easier.

Extreme care must be taken to not damage the headliner or the plastic sill piece below the back window if you don't remove them, I didn't.


Next I prepped the replacement window, new exterior paint, tint on the inside.




Next I installed the rubber gasket around the window, used a few small dabs of contact cement midways along the long sides to keep the gasket from trying to come off when your hanging the window.



Then I removed most of the old urethane sealant, you don't have to remove it completely, just make it smooth.

I then used some alcohol on a rag to remove the dirt and dust, primed the frame and the glass with this:



Then I put this sealant on the glass, took pretty much the whole tube, laid down a bead about 3/8" to 1/2" dia all the way around.



Next was the install, opened the slider part way for someplace to hang on to, set it in place, pressed all around to "seat" it.




Afterwords I put the camper cap back on, then "procured" one of them "noodle" swimming things from my daughter(you can see it in the picture), cut six 4" pieces from it placed them between the window and the cap to apply pressure till the sealant cured.


Done deal.

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X2, nice writeup.



I've had two MJ's with broken center glass,

both times I 'fixed' it by popping in a piece of plexiglass in instead (easy to bend, to pop into the track.)


Didn't come out as nice as your tinted setup tho. :cheers:



Side benefit/theft hazard with the plexi,

If you have kids (or a 28 waist :D ), you can even pop it back out, and send one of them in, when you lock your keys inside. :dunce:

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Just be aware, to get the gasket back in properly the glass has to come out, then reinstalled as in the pics.

OOH - that is good to know. I just wanted to get behind the gasket to fix some of the leaks. I never intended on taking out the window. Thank you for the Heads up :thumbsup: - Rich

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  • 3 months later...

Thanks for the confirmation, seeing as how the gaskets are now worth gold it's good to know that there is a verified way (By mfpdm) to remove them undamaged. My only fear is coming out of the mall and finding somebody took my back gasket, hasn't happened but :headpop:

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  • 2 months later...

That sealant that was use for the installation is that it is special order item or I can find that stuff anywhere if not was would be a comparable product. I have some time on my hands and I have to get this done jamminz.gif

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There are three types of sealant that I know of. One uses primer, the other doesn't. The other is like a rope/ribbon. The advantage to the ribbon is that it's of a uniform consistency and easy to apply, I recommend using primer when applying either products, the use of primer insures good surface adhesion. Just make sure you get automotive grade window sealant and primer, you can get it at many auto parts stores. Think I paid between 10 and 20 dollars for a tube of sealant (takes one) plus primer. Last lime I bought window glass ribbon, I think I paid nearly $30 bucks for it. Either should be readily available and not special order items. Remember, the surface where the window is installed doesn't have to be cleaned to bare metal. You can leave old gasket material (as long as it is flat and smooth) the primer takes care of adhesion. This is all if you don't have rust, if you do, you know the deal, sand prime paint etc. I aint an auto glass guy, just a guy like you who likes to learn and get his hands dirty, so by no means what I do is "the right way" I leave that to the guys who get paid to do it. Usually.


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Yup! Although in my friends truck his slider doesn't use a "gasket", the metal frame of the slider backwindow takes the space where a gasket should go (looks like a gasket is in there). If you do this Remember to save the old gasket, safeguard it. Besides, the rubber gasket isn't really the seal, the urethane sealant is. The gasket is really more of a garnish as seen by my friends truck wich doesn't use a gasket.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 years later...

excellent write up. gives me some hope for mine now. i have a new (to me) slider, gasket is out, and now thanks to your descriptive pics and instructions, i just may get brave the next time the sun comes out here. thanks :)

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  • 1 month later...
  • 9 years later...

Just did this to pull a one-piece rear window with a few modifications. I used two vice grips, several strands of .035 welding wire cut to about 1-2ft, a box cutter with extra blades, an awl, and some spray lube.


Pulled the headliner to make it easier to access the upper glass, so remove the upper A and B pillar trim. Also pulled the rear trim piece on the lower glass that's just held in with plastic rivets. Score the window sealant with the box cutter, cutting as close to the glass as possible, on the two sides and top edge from inside the cab. Push the awl through the seal through one of the top corners, then shove in a piece of .035 wire. Spray some lube around the outside of the seal where you plan to saw. Grab the ends of the wire with your vice grips clamped down, then saw down through the side until you get to the bottom edge. Be cognizant of the welding wire as you saw because it will heat up and break. If the clamped ends of the wire break just reclamp your vice grips, I had to do this several times in stubborn spots. Saw through both sides and the top. Now you should be able to pry the glass out to where you can cut the bottom sealant with the box cutter easy. Once I figured out this method I had the job done in under an hour.

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  • 1 month later...

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