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Best Dana35 fluid?


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What's the best fluid for a Dana 35? Well I guess my better question would be should it or should it not be a GL-5 type fluid? My book says GL-5 but it also said that for the transmission and that was a big oops.

 

-Cody

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any gl 5 is fine for the axle. no need to get fancy, plane ole 80w90. in case you were considering synthetic, its actually been determined they don't disipate the heat as well, and some other factors that have made gear and locker manufacturers say not to use synthetic.

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any gl 5 is fine for the axle. no need to get fancy, plane ole 80w90. in case you were considering synthetic, its actually been determined they don't disipate the heat as well, and some other factors that have made gear and locker manufacturers say not to use synthetic.

 

 

The reason that the the manufacturers are recommending dinos has nothing to do with heat. They are saying that the synthetics don't allow enough wear to for the gears (or lockers) to break in correctly.

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any gl 5 is fine for the axle. no need to get fancy, plane ole 80w90. in case you were considering synthetic, its actually been determined they don't disipate the heat as well, and some other factors that have made gear and locker manufacturers say not to use synthetic.

 

 

The reason that the the manufacturers are recommending dinos has nothing to do with heat. They are saying that the synthetics don't allow enough wear to for the gears (or lockers) to break in correctly.

So after break-in synthetics should be fine?

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any gl 5 is fine for the axle. no need to get fancy, plane ole 80w90. in case you were considering synthetic, its actually been determined they don't disipate the heat as well, and some other factors that have made gear and locker manufacturers say not to use synthetic.

 

 

The reason that the the manufacturers are recommending dinos has nothing to do with heat. They are saying that the synthetics don't allow enough wear to for the gears (or lockers) to break in correctly.

 

this is true on break ins in axles, and engines as well, and i consider fairly common knowledge, i AM speaking of post break in, tests have shown, differentials specifically here, ran hotter while operating w/ synthetic oil. the synthetic oil lubricates slightly better, but tended to trap the heat in the molecules more than regular oil disipated heat better. i am by no means saying synthetic will do harm, but it is not the miracle everyone thinks it is.

 

thanks though.

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I use the plain old Coastal 85W90. But the vent tube broke off my axle, so I change it out due to water in it pretty much monthly, after each wheeling trip. Have an 8.25" that's going in at some point (just needs some parts), so I never bothered to drill it out and tap in a new tube.

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this is true on break ins in axles, and engines as well, and i consider fairly common knowledge, i AM speaking of post break in, tests have shown, differentials specifically here, ran hotter while operating w/ synthetic oil. the synthetic oil lubricates slightly better, but tended to trap the heat in the molecules more than regular oil disipated heat better. i am by no means saying synthetic will do harm, but it is not the miracle everyone thinks it is. thanks though.

 

Agree 100% on synthetics for the diff after gear break-in and have been running syn Mobil-1 for years in all my vehicles. As for diff heat buildup, I'm a firm believer of adding a quality finned cast aluminum cover. Besides adding about 25% more oil capacity and having a convenient drain plug, they do a super job of dissipating heat. Amazing how hot they get...........

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IIRC the problem with GL5 was the ferrous metal brass/bronze parts in the tranny. There is none in a D35 axle so its fine for that application...

Fixed it for ya.

 

Last I knew, differential gears were steel, and steel is a ferrous metal ...

 

 

 

 

 

GOTCHA!

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IIRC the problem with GL5 was the ferrous metal brass/bronze parts in the tranny. There is none in a D35 axle so its fine for that application...

Fixed it for ya.

 

Last I knew, differential gears were steel, and steel is a ferrous metal ...

 

 

 

 

 

GOTCHA!

 

LOL.. Tanks man!! Even if I don't type what I mean... I mean what I say. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :shake:

 

CW

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any gl 5 is fine for the axle. no need to get fancy, plane ole 80w90. in case you were considering synthetic, its actually been determined they don't disipate the heat as well, and some other factors that have made gear and locker manufacturers say not to use synthetic.

 

 

The reason that the the manufacturers are recommending dinos has nothing to do with heat. They are saying that the synthetics don't allow enough wear to for the gears (or lockers) to break in correctly.

So after break-in synthetics should be fine?

That is correct JT. The benefits of Synthetic still FAR out-weigh any concerns :thumbsup: . It is always recommended that any engine, tranny, or axle get a proper break-in time before switching to Synthetic fluids. Synthetics will still get the best performance and longest life out of anything vs. conventional lubricants.

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this is the first I heard that synthetics cause more heat.

I would think less friction = less heat.

It's a very small difference that will cause no problems. This is just the distributors of conventional lubes grasping at straws, trying to discredit a superior product that they can't compete with ;)

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this is the first I heard that synthetics cause more heat.

I would think less friction = less heat.

Its not that synthetics cause more heat,, it has more to do with them NOT transferring heat as well as dinos. My uncle has an race engine shop and went through the whole dino vrs synthetics a few months back.. They use Brad Penn blends in all of their builds after being broke in on the dyno. He said with a blend you get the best of both worlds.. Better lubrication, and a good transfer of heat, or heat being taking away by the oil which causes a better dissipation. Synthetics don't cause more heat just hold it longer.

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this is the first I heard that synthetics cause more heat.

I would think less friction = less heat.

Its not that synthetics cause more heat,, it has more to do with them NOT transferring heat as well as dinos. My uncle has an race engine shop and went through the whole dino vrs synthetics a few months back.. They use Brad Penn blends in all of their builds after being broke in on the dyno. He said with a blend you get the best of both worlds.. Better lubrication, and a good transfer of heat, or heat being taking away by the oil which causes a better dissipation. Synthetics don't cause more heat just hold it longer.

 

exactly, thats why i said don't disipate the heat, not cause more heat. i don't use it first of all cuz if you do maintenance regularly the extra money in synthetics doesn't add up to me, i'll keep up the maintenance with regular oils. and we don't drive race cars. my stroker motor will probably get a synthetic blend.

 

and anything i wheel the diffs get changed at least once a year....synthetic ain't gonna do nothing for moisture/water in the oil.

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....synthetic ain't gonna do nothing for moisture/water in the oil.

Actually it does...Synthetic is is a much better choice to have if there is moisture/water present. Water will blend with a conventional oil and break it down, but that will not happen with Synthetic, as it repels moisture and retains viscosity. :thumbsup:

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all oil repels water. it stays completely seperated untill mixed in the engine or wherever like a blender. ever drain the oil on an engine with bad heads, gaskets etc? all the coolant comes out first, then the oil. they will always seperate.

 

my point is, when water is present, it will get in the bearings, synthetic or not, and the water will cause too much heat, and poor lubrication. sure the synthetic might be marginally better in this situation, just like conventional is marginally better with heat. water is the enemy no matter what.

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Dana 35s should be filled with concrete. Makes for a better boat anchor. :D

 

What does this have to do with the topic? It's getting tiresome.

 

ya really.....i think the d35 is just fine as a boat anchor as is :banana: :waving:

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this is the first I heard that synthetics cause more heat.

I would think less friction = less heat.

Its not that synthetics cause more heat,, it has more to do with them NOT transferring heat as well as dinos. My uncle has an race engine shop and went through the whole dino vrs synthetics a few months back.. They use Brad Penn blends in all of their builds after being broke in on the dyno. He said with a blend you get the best of both worlds.. Better lubrication, and a good transfer of heat, or heat being taking away by the oil which causes a better dissipation. Synthetics don't cause more heat just hold it longer.

 

But the considerations for race engines are not necessarily the same as for longevity in working engines, right?

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Dana 35s should be filled with concrete. Makes for a better boat anchor. :D

 

What does this have to do with the topic? It's getting tiresome.

 

Says the man that hasn't yet been stranded on the side of the road on the way to work 'cause his 35 decided to start spitting out gear teeth for no obvious reason.

You're right though. My prior post wasn't precisely pertinent to the pressing point of the previous poster.

 

 

 

 

 

Besides, a Peugeot makes for a better boat anchor. :D

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you wanna peice of me? :rotfl2: :banana:

 

Err, not tonight after seeing that. :cheers: Maybe after a few more beers though. :beerhead: Seriously though, after snapping an axle on a relatively slow takeoff w. the stroker, I've have been looking, looking, looking for a reasonably priced D44 for quite awhile. But I need 4.11 gears, impossibly hard to find. The D35 needs more respect. While not the best/strongest axle, it's certainly not the worst either. Sooner or later I'll find one so I can re-install my Explorer disks easily w. just new backing plates.

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