Jump to content

Removing siezed wheels.


Recommended Posts

Curses on the alumnim $#!&-rims that my MJ has. So far, Ive only had one out of the four acctually come off, the rest are sized on. I got the sized front off my soaking the hell out of it with Penetrating fluid then prying it off with a prybar jammed against my caliper (needs replacing anyway) The 2 rears are stuck solid. Its hell. How can I get them off? I have the use of a sawzall and a grinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This works but be careful if you try it....

 

Break the lugnuts loose but don't back them off (keep them snug), then drive forward/back a couple feet. They'll pop.

 

Alternately, you can take a piece of 4X4 or similar and hit the bead area at the bottom repeatedly while slowly spinning the tire. It will eventually pop.

 

Good luck!

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This works but be careful if you try it....

 

Break the lugnuts loose but don't back them off (keep them snug), then drive forward/back a couple feet. They'll pop.

 

Good luck!

Jeff

 

I don't know what this says, if I agree with the guy from VA... :cheers:

 

But the lugs loose/drive around method is how I get aluminum rims off. I have always seemed to bend something important when trying to 'carefully' hammer off a aluminum rim.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The grand I stripped had 'luminum rims and one of the nuts sheared between the bezel and the hex, so there was a 2-3 mm bezel effectively welded to the alumnium deep in the hole. The price for the grand was returning the wheels so I just cut the rear axle off and returned the whole thing.

 

The guy eventually had to use a hole saw through the alumnium rim just to sell the tires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

with the tire off the ground smack the tire with a small sledge as you rotate the tire/wheel. thats how we get them off at work. it doesnt take alot of force.

That depends on how badly stuck they are. I had one I pounded unmercifully for two days that wouldn't give up. I was hitting the tire (first with a 2x4 block to protect the tire & wheel, then without, no joy. I finally decided the wheel wasn't worth saveing and went to work directly on the rim. It finally broke loose, but I had to do some serious damage to the wheel before it popped.

 

Always use ant-sieze around your hub centers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm at work at the moment, it won't start right at the moment but the 2x4 idea will work, and I'll secure some torches to heat it some. Thank god for tradesmen parents. Ive beat onit for about 2 days now, and soaked it in penetrationg fluid. nothing, not even prying breaks 'em loose. The bottle-jack will definately work, I have 2 small/medium sized ones that porbably will fit between the frame and tire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know a way... You only need about 20 feet of chain (2 peices), a hi-lift, and something to anchor off of...

 

 

 

At your own risk.

scrangler's idea and the bottle jack idea are as far as I'll go at the moment, :) Id like to ahve it in atleast 1 peice when I'm finished.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if the axle is a D35 and the wheels won't come off just take to whole axle and wheels to the scrap yard and get another axle...lol :razz:

 

I've got a D44 waiting for me at a friends farm, I just need this thing to be roadworthy to get me around all winter, as soon as summer comes, the D44 is going in, a T-case and the front axel from a '87 Pioneer. Oh, and a I-6 HO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...