Jump to content

Where does the water come from (Update...Now Windshield!)


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 142
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I agree with drilling holes and pulling up the carpet. I noticed when I first got my MJ that the carpet on the floorboards were very damp. So I ended up cutting away the carpet on the floorboards, leaving them bare, only covering the trans tunnel and footwells. Where the water was pooling, I drilled small drainage holes, in the hopes that any future puddling wouldn't be as bad. I used some bedliner spray on the floorboards, and hope that will hold up for a while.

 

I checked the floors today, since it rained last night, and have two more leaks. This time it looks like they're coming from the back of the cab, and running under the seats. Once it dries out, I'm going to dry out the floorboards, blow some air into the seam along the back bottom edge of the cab, and either run some silicone with a caulk gun, black RTV, or expanding foam, and hope that fixes those leaks.

 

IMHO, it's ridiculous that these things leak like this, so I'm not going to waste a lot of time trying to find the actual source. I'll deal with what I can, which is where the water LOOKS like it's coming from. If I seal that bottom back seam in the cab, and the leak is gone, I'll consider the problem solved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i removed everything, and filled all the holes. the tricky one to find was high and to the left of the computer cables. the plug is blue, and there was a small hole at the top so the water would run down the cable.

 

the only leak now is from the passenger door, which is no biggie. 97+ will fix that :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion , you should use a real glass urethane sealer that the glass shops use . Other products can have a problem

sealing to the surface somewhere along the way .

 

If it is leaking like mine , anywhere around the back glass seal , your leak could be all the way at the top .

 

I am just better off taking the back glass out completely , scraping all the old urethane and anything left on the back pinch weld .

Prime the pinch weld with a urethane primer and sealer , lay a new bead of urethane and reset the back glass .

 

If you need more info on that I can help you out . I am a NGA certified glass tech. , or I used to be anyway .

It seems like allot of work but takes only about an hour or two .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion , you should use a real glass urethane sealer that the glass shops use . Other products can have a problem

sealing to the surface somewhere along the way .

 

If it is leaking like mine , anywhere around the back glass seal , your leak could be all the way at the top .

 

I am just better off taking the back glass out completely , scraping all the old urethane and anything left on the back pinch weld .

Prime the pinch weld with a urethane primer and sealer , lay a new bead of urethane and reset the back glass .

 

If you need more info on that I can help you out . I am a NGA certified glass tech. , or I used to be anyway .

It seems like allot of work but takes only about an hour or two .

:agree:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, that at least gives me something to start with...I was going to look thru the Foam around the hood latch on the pass side to see if I could see any evidence that is where the water might be going in.

 

I went to pull the MJ out of my driveway to fit my Roll Bar (on the incline, nose up), and of course, it wouldn't start (CPS maybe) But as I rolled it down the driveway to push into the street, I could literally hear quite a bit of water sloshing around and pouring out as it was rolling down (mind you, we've had no rain in days). So it's obviously pooling somewhere and not draining correcting, probably from various places. I think Rule #1, don't park it nose up on my incline driveway.

 

I don't think there are too many places where enough water can pool for you to hear it sloshing around other than the heater box. From your pics, and the pics Paul posted, I think your onto something with the heater box. Atleast its not your DD. Take your time and pull the dash. Remember, your SUPPOSED to ENJOY working on your jeeps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take your time and pull the dash. Remember, your SUPPOSED to ENJOY working on your jeeps.

 

Yah, that's the part that always eludes me....It usually just pisses me off...

 

Yup, I wouldn't say that I've enjoyed working on my MJ, at least not all the time...dealing with the non-op dome lights, water leaks, annoying dash rattle, passenger window that won't roll up, etc. is FAR from enjoyment...installing the bucket seats/full console, Uni foam filter/ram air hose, and even the compact air horn were okay...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So really the only direction to go from here is to pull the rear window and reseal. It does make sense that the seal could be compromised at any point on the window and, from that point on, the gasket channels the water to the lower edge of the window.

I replaced the rear window on my old Isuzu pickup once upon a time but it was a rubber gasket and no sealant. How hard is this one to pull? DJM do they use both a rubber gasket and urethane? That may be a project for later this spring/summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So really the only direction to go from here is to pull the rear window and reseal. It does make sense that the seal could be compromised at any point on the window and, from that point on, the gasket channels the water to the lower edge of the window.

I replaced the rear window on my old Isuzu pickup once upon a time but it was a rubber gasket and no sealant. How hard is this one to pull? DJM do they use both a rubber gasket and urethane? That may be a project for later this spring/summer.

 

Yes , pulling the rear window is just the best way to eliminate any wasted time . The bead on the pinch weld is usually ran from the top

to the bottom . Its really hard to run a solid constant bead all the way around . Thats were allot of the problems exist . Some shops

stop the bead at the top corner of the pinch weld , then starting a new bead down the side . You need to overlap the urethane so

that there are no breaks in the bead . I continue the bead around the corners then stop about 3"inches down from the corner .

Then continue the bead around the bottom corner .

 

The back glass or rear slider has a fixed seal that does not come off , however there is a rubber seal around that .

Before you tackle this let me do a write up , there are a couple of small things that will need to be addressed .

I haven't taken my slider out yet so I don't know exactly what's in there , but I'll get on that .

I have been waiting to do mine until I get a new slider , if their even possible to find new .

My windows rattle like crazy , it pisses me off .

Besides it never ceases to amaze me , these guys that do all this restoration work , almost never look at the condition of

the pinch welds . You can always tell how much they put in the paint job , by the condition of the pinch welds and door jams .

 

I,ll get on that write up , ASAP . :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my water comes mostly from getting in my truck with snow on my shoes. youd be surprised how much gathers.

i put a floormat there made to prevent water on ur carpet and it gathers like a gallon or so.....really

expecially when I'm plowing....getting in and out every 20 mins or so :wall: i hate it

 

there is where my water comes from

so if anyone knows how to prevent this....or give me like a couple hundred grand so i can retire, theres ALWAYS gonna be water in my truck

helloooooooo vinyl floor...in summer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I usually sit down, kick boots together outside, then bring them in. Only twice though, don't really want to get sent to Kansas with that third click. :D

 

But a good set of floormats couldn't hurt. :thumbsup: Or at least a sacrificial towel thrown on the floor that you pull out after working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one would think thats the general idea ......but after the first 10 driveways you plow and walkways you shovel :wall: ...and thinking about the 26 more to go :mad: it kinda slipps my mind.. :huh???: ....i do try to as much as possible though....

 

Did you rubber line the floor or use any matting ? Thats first thing I did when I got my truck . Works great . No more :shake:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

OK.... after using nearly an entire tube of seam sealer all over the place under the hood and under the dash, I might have my underdash drippy's at bay for a little bit (I hope)

 

Driving to lunch today, in a light rain, I happy to be looking over the right and I see a big drip fall from the top edge of the windshield down to the floor (which is still bare metal). I reach up under the lip of the headliner and feel "damp" at the top edge of the windshield, so it appears I had more than a few water intrusion locations.

SO, new question... do I pop the metal trim for the out side (how exactly does that come up, big screwdriver and a twist?) and apply a bead of RTV or something around the windshield, or do I pull the headliner out and try to seal from the inside, or both.

 

Sw2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...