freakjeep93 Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 drill a drain hole in the floor for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 drill a drain hole in the floor for now :agree: drill a 1/2" hole on both sides, then just stick a plug in it when you get the leak fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 oh and you should take the carpet out untill the leak is plugged or you have wet carpet making the floor rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socal1200r Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 I agree with drilling holes and pulling up the carpet. I noticed when I first got my MJ that the carpet on the floorboards were very damp. So I ended up cutting away the carpet on the floorboards, leaving them bare, only covering the trans tunnel and footwells. Where the water was pooling, I drilled small drainage holes, in the hopes that any future puddling wouldn't be as bad. I used some bedliner spray on the floorboards, and hope that will hold up for a while. I checked the floors today, since it rained last night, and have two more leaks. This time it looks like they're coming from the back of the cab, and running under the seats. Once it dries out, I'm going to dry out the floorboards, blow some air into the seam along the back bottom edge of the cab, and either run some silicone with a caulk gun, black RTV, or expanding foam, and hope that fixes those leaks. IMHO, it's ridiculous that these things leak like this, so I'm not going to waste a lot of time trying to find the actual source. I'll deal with what I can, which is where the water LOOKS like it's coming from. If I seal that bottom back seam in the cab, and the leak is gone, I'll consider the problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Thats why i went with the Hurculiner route. I still get some water inside now and then but i don't care anymore :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dakal Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 i removed everything, and filled all the holes. the tricky one to find was high and to the left of the computer cables. the plug is blue, and there was a small hole at the top so the water would run down the cable. the only leak now is from the passenger door, which is no biggie. 97+ will fix that :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 So any thoughts as to which part of the rear windows is leaking? The water is split evenly from Dr to Pass and comes through at the lower corner on each side. I can run a bead of black rubber sealant around the entire window perimeter but that would prob look pretty messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 baby powder and a hose should point you to the leak. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM/78 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 In my opinion , you should use a real glass urethane sealer that the glass shops use . Other products can have a problem sealing to the surface somewhere along the way . If it is leaking like mine , anywhere around the back glass seal , your leak could be all the way at the top . I am just better off taking the back glass out completely , scraping all the old urethane and anything left on the back pinch weld . Prime the pinch weld with a urethane primer and sealer , lay a new bead of urethane and reset the back glass . If you need more info on that I can help you out . I am a NGA certified glass tech. , or I used to be anyway . It seems like allot of work but takes only about an hour or two . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daltonmcgill7 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 In my opinion , you should use a real glass urethane sealer that the glass shops use . Other products can have a problem sealing to the surface somewhere along the way . If it is leaking like mine , anywhere around the back glass seal , your leak could be all the way at the top . I am just better off taking the back glass out completely , scraping all the old urethane and anything left on the back pinch weld . Prime the pinch weld with a urethane primer and sealer , lay a new bead of urethane and reset the back glass . If you need more info on that I can help you out . I am a NGA certified glass tech. , or I used to be anyway . It seems like allot of work but takes only about an hour or two . :agree: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Thanks, that at least gives me something to start with...I was going to look thru the Foam around the hood latch on the pass side to see if I could see any evidence that is where the water might be going in. I went to pull the MJ out of my driveway to fit my Roll Bar (on the incline, nose up), and of course, it wouldn't start (CPS maybe) But as I rolled it down the driveway to push into the street, I could literally hear quite a bit of water sloshing around and pouring out as it was rolling down (mind you, we've had no rain in days). So it's obviously pooling somewhere and not draining correcting, probably from various places. I think Rule #1, don't park it nose up on my incline driveway. I don't think there are too many places where enough water can pool for you to hear it sloshing around other than the heater box. From your pics, and the pics Paul posted, I think your onto something with the heater box. Atleast its not your DD. Take your time and pull the dash. Remember, your SUPPOSED to ENJOY working on your jeeps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Take your time and pull the dash. Remember, your SUPPOSED to ENJOY working on your jeeps. Yah, that's the part that always eludes me....It usually just pisses me off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socal1200r Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Take your time and pull the dash. Remember, your SUPPOSED to ENJOY working on your jeeps. Yah, that's the part that always eludes me....It usually just pisses me off... Yup, I wouldn't say that I've enjoyed working on my MJ, at least not all the time...dealing with the non-op dome lights, water leaks, annoying dash rattle, passenger window that won't roll up, etc. is FAR from enjoyment...installing the bucket seats/full console, Uni foam filter/ram air hose, and even the compact air horn were okay... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 repairs suck. upgrades rock. It's not exclusive to Jeeping. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 So really the only direction to go from here is to pull the rear window and reseal. It does make sense that the seal could be compromised at any point on the window and, from that point on, the gasket channels the water to the lower edge of the window. I replaced the rear window on my old Isuzu pickup once upon a time but it was a rubber gasket and no sealant. How hard is this one to pull? DJM do they use both a rubber gasket and urethane? That may be a project for later this spring/summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 you could try painters tape in the suspect area, then hit it with a hose and see if the leak goes away. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM/78 Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 So really the only direction to go from here is to pull the rear window and reseal. It does make sense that the seal could be compromised at any point on the window and, from that point on, the gasket channels the water to the lower edge of the window. I replaced the rear window on my old Isuzu pickup once upon a time but it was a rubber gasket and no sealant. How hard is this one to pull? DJM do they use both a rubber gasket and urethane? That may be a project for later this spring/summer. Yes , pulling the rear window is just the best way to eliminate any wasted time . The bead on the pinch weld is usually ran from the top to the bottom . Its really hard to run a solid constant bead all the way around . Thats were allot of the problems exist . Some shops stop the bead at the top corner of the pinch weld , then starting a new bead down the side . You need to overlap the urethane so that there are no breaks in the bead . I continue the bead around the corners then stop about 3"inches down from the corner . Then continue the bead around the bottom corner . The back glass or rear slider has a fixed seal that does not come off , however there is a rubber seal around that . Before you tackle this let me do a write up , there are a couple of small things that will need to be addressed . I haven't taken my slider out yet so I don't know exactly what's in there , but I'll get on that . I have been waiting to do mine until I get a new slider , if their even possible to find new . My windows rattle like crazy , it pisses me off . Besides it never ceases to amaze me , these guys that do all this restoration work , almost never look at the condition of the pinch welds . You can always tell how much they put in the paint job , by the condition of the pinch welds and door jams . I,ll get on that write up , ASAP . :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 my water comes mostly from getting in my truck with snow on my shoes. youd be surprised how much gathers. i put a floormat there made to prevent water on ur carpet and it gathers like a gallon or so.....really expecially when I'm plowing....getting in and out every 20 mins or so :wall: i hate it there is where my water comes from so if anyone knows how to prevent this....or give me like a couple hundred grand so i can retire, theres ALWAYS gonna be water in my truck helloooooooo vinyl floor...in summer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I usually sit down, kick boots together outside, then bring them in. Only twice though, don't really want to get sent to Kansas with that third click. :D But a good set of floormats couldn't hurt. :thumbsup: Or at least a sacrificial towel thrown on the floor that you pull out after working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 one would think thats the general idea ......but after the first 10 driveways you plow and walkways you shovel :wall: ...and thinking about the 26 more to go :mad: it kinda slipps my mind.. :huh???: ....i do try to as much as possible though.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I hear that. even when being careful there's always a puddle in the floormats of the liberty. try a towel. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJM/78 Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 one would think thats the general idea ......but after the first 10 driveways you plow and walkways you shovel :wall: ...and thinking about the 26 more to go :mad: it kinda slipps my mind.. :huh???: ....i do try to as much as possible though.... Did you rubber line the floor or use any matting ? Thats first thing I did when I got my truck . Works great . No more :shake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 OK.... after using nearly an entire tube of seam sealer all over the place under the hood and under the dash, I might have my underdash drippy's at bay for a little bit (I hope) Driving to lunch today, in a light rain, I happy to be looking over the right and I see a big drip fall from the top edge of the windshield down to the floor (which is still bare metal). I reach up under the lip of the headliner and feel "damp" at the top edge of the windshield, so it appears I had more than a few water intrusion locations. SO, new question... do I pop the metal trim for the out side (how exactly does that come up, big screwdriver and a twist?) and apply a bead of RTV or something around the windshield, or do I pull the headliner out and try to seal from the inside, or both. Sw2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakjeep93 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 id do both. i form a gasket on the windshield of my parts mj back when i was driving it and my glove compartment still fills with water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 id do both. i form a gasket on the windshield of my parts mj back when i was driving it and my glove compartment still fills with water how does the outer trim come off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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