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True use of tools


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TOOLS AS EXPLAINED BY AN ENGINEER

 

(This Explains TOOLS better than I've EVER Heard)

 

 

 

 

 

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

 

 

 

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh $#!&'

 

 

 

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

 

 

 

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

 

 

 

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

 

 

 

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

 

 

 

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

 

 

 

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

 

 

 

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

 

 

 

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

 

 

 

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

 

 

 

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

 

 

 

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

 

 

 

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

 

 

 

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

 

 

 

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50-cent part.

 

 

 

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

 

 

 

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

 

 

 

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as leather seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

 

 

 

(embarrassing as it is, I've used this also)

 

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'DAMMIT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

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After adding on to the shop a few times and moving the table saw around I have tested the structural integrity of 3 walls and a (cheap) door. All failed.

 

i also used a 10hp shaper to test another wall. Threw a 3/4"x2"x24" piece of oak through 5/8" drywall, 5.5" cellulose insulation, through 20 gauge metal siding, and about 50' across the lawn before hitting the ground. Really glad I was not standing in the line of fire.

 

My last table saw shot about 6 weeks ago tested my pain threshold throwing a piece of 1/4" plywood into my nether regions. Also caused a 7" bruise on my thigh.

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After adding on to the shop a few times and moving the table saw around I have tested the structural integrity of 3 walls and a (cheap) door. All failed.

 

i also used a 10hp shaper to test another wall. Threw a 3/4"x2"x24" piece of oak through 5/8" drywall, 5.5" cellulose insulation, through 20 gauge metal siding, and about 50' across the lawn before hitting the ground. Really glad I was not standing in the line of fire.

 

My last table saw shot about 6 weeks ago tested my pain threshold throwing a piece of 1/4" plywood into my nether regions. Also caused a 7" bruise on my thigh.

 

 

Sound like you need to give up wood working or start wearing hockey goalie equipment :dunno:

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The 2 Ton Engine hoist was my favorite.

 

Mine too, done that plenty of times.

 

I'll add one too...

Screwdrivers.. Every time your looking for a Straight all you'll find are Philips,, as when looking for a Philips all you'll find are Straights :rant:

 

Oujia board principle again.

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PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.quote]

 

i tend to do the latter part of this discription alot. my pliers usually end up my damnit tool about a minute after i start to use them :fs1: .

This thread is awsome tho, hilarious descriptions :clapping:

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Dudes, what are you doing with a table saw? If you are using a square and the fence together, don't. I can't think of any other way anything can be thrown by the blade.

 

The piece of 1/4" plywood was bowed *badly*, because of that the part where the blade was cutting was up off the table an inch or so. When I was almost the whole way through the last 1/2" or so broke, causing the two halves to fall down and pinch the blade. So it immediately went from moving forward at whatever speed I was feeding it to moving back toward me at around 200 mph.

 

Yes, I knew better, but still....

 

At least I still have all 10 fingers. I have damaged a few, but never permanently. I intend to retire with all 10 still intact.

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I hate using table saws, it has turned into the kind of tool that I use when NOTHING else will do the job, even if the table saw is the fastest/best tool for the job. I've never had the saw throw anything (though it tried), but I used to use a saw blade that was pretty thick and it tended to cause a lot of kick back and it would either try to force it back at me or try to shove my fingers into the blade. :eek: Enough of those close calls will send you away from a table saw. I probably would be more comfortable if I were using a Sawstop, not so sure about the quality on those though, but safety can't be matched.

 

Hilarious descriptions, Love the damnit tool, and yes that is my most commonly used tool. I lost my 1/4" HF ratchet that way. :fs1:

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What about a Damnit Car part? i know its not a tool...unless you count it a a tool of releasing frustration. awww...the many, many bad vehicle parts i've thrown across the road...good times :clapping:

 

image_209027.gif i don't throw tools, i throw everything else! :dunce: when i was done parting out the suburban i did last summer, i used the body that was left to take out my frustrations. every hit with the hammer was for a stuck bolt, broken tool, or cut/bruise i suffered. man it felt good! :D

 

i even gave my kids hammers and let them bang away at it. they had a great time. how many kids get the chance to destroy a truck? :clapping:

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lol awsome. your kids are lucky :D . did you take pics of your kids destroying it?

 

actually i did. :idea: i will post some pic's later. i didn't even think of that. this weekend or later this week i hope to take some pi'cs of my mj to introduce it. i will figure out how to post pic's and get them all posted. first i need to figure out how it all works. i figure i'll do a search and find what i need. :typing:

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  • 1 month later...

I hand this out in class:

 

TECH 101 – source Bubba Engineering Limited

Page 1 of 3

Here are some interesting new tests developed by some of our brightest engineers

with strange nicknames using probable value /observation equation technique.

Use them carefully.

FUEL PRESSURE CHART

(For those who refuse to use a pressure gauge)

Due to the fact that most technicians do not want to take the time to correctly test the fuel

pressure, we have developed the following... With the engine running, either push the

Schrader valve in or loosen the fuel line THEN IF:

Observation Probable Value (PSI)

Fuel does not come out of the test area Approx. 0

Fuel hits the hood insulation 5 - 8

Fuel squirts over the fender 10 - 15

Fuel splashes off the fender onto the hood insulation and into

the next repair bay

25 - 30

Fuel squirts to the garage roof, all over the car and hits shop

owner or mgr.

35 - 50

VACUUM TEST "The Rule of Thumb"

Put thumb on vacuum hose leading to direct vacuum

Observation Probable Value

Don't feel anything Change thumb and retest

Still don't feel anything Vacuum is very low to none

Hose has slight suction 1" - 5"

Suction causes skin to wrinkle 5" - 8"

Suction turns thumb blue 8" - 10"

Suction creates hickey on thumb 0" - 12"

Suction creates pain 8" - 20"

Suction will not release and begin to move toward index finger 20 - 25"

TECH 101 – source Bubba Engineering Limited

Page 2 of 3

TEST LIGHT ILLUMINATION CHART

With the vehicle prepped and ready to be tested, hook the negative lead of the test light to a

good ground and proceed with testing.

Observation Probable Value (Volts)

The bulb DOES NOT light 0 – 1

The bulb MIGHT be glowing 1 – 3

The bulb BARELY GLOWS (or there is a reflection from the

overhead lights)

3 – 5

The bulb GLOWS MUCH BRIGHTER than #2, but only a little

brighter than #3

5 – 7

The bulb GLOWS WITH THE SAME INTENSITY AS A BALD HEAD ON

A SUNNY DAY

7 – 9

The bulb GLOWS BRIGHTLY and is GAINING IN INTENSITY 9 – 11

The bulb is ALMOST BRIGHT ENOUGH TO READ BY 11 – 13

The bulb is BRIGHT ENOUGH that you still see a spot when you

look away

13 – 15

The bulb SHINES WITH THE INTENSITY OF A HALOGEN HEADLAMP 15 – 17

The bulb is so bright that it MAY BE A SIGN FROM GOD 17 = 19

The bulb flashed with the INTENSITY OF A MINOLTA FLASH

POINTED 3 FEET FROM YOUR FACE

20 - 20,000

Note: may be testing coil pack

IGNITION VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST

Scopes may be inaccessible from time to time, so here is a test for Ignition Output :

1. Hold medium wrench in one hand. Sears wrench preferred for accuracy of test

because other smooth wrenches are too slick for throwing.

2. With the engine running, grab hold of the plug end of an ignition cable and with the

other hand, hold on tight!

3. Pull plug wire.

This will more than likely cause you to throw the wrench.

KV output is based on how far the wrench was thrown.

NOTE: Experienced users have learned to move other vehicles aside while

conducting this test.

Observation Probable Value (Volts)

+10 feet 10,000 give or take a few KV

+20 feet 20,000 give or take a few KV

+30 feet 30,000 give or take a few KV

+40 feet and beyond 40,000+ (add a couple of 10 KV as needed)

Caution! Must be one of them new ultra high output

ignition systems, next time use a bigger wrench.

TECH 101 – source Bubba Engineering Limited

Page 3 of 3

HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH

With a skilled ear and quick finger, you can use your impact gun to torque nuts and bolts.

Please note these values are for Ingersol-Rand brand impact guns only!

Probable Value Observation

25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP!

35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!

45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP!

60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

110 to 300 ft/lbs BAP !BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!

BAP! BAP!

Stripped/broken bolt/nut BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! VRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! Crap!

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