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CW's MJ 2005 - 10


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It aint gonna bend, I am fairly sure of that. It dosen't move hardly at all with out the clamp.

 

It could flex at the pass side. I am going to take it down. I'm gonna add a gusset between the bolt holes and remount to the underside of the frame rail.

 

Its a plumbing pipe standoff/ riser clamp. Avalible at any plumbing supply store.

 

CW

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I had a creaking popping noise that is now gone!! It only is herd in the colder weather. Its obviously caused by something moving, as its dissapeared, something has been stopped from moving. So it IS working!!!

 

I cleaned the area surronding the steering box looking for any cheaks, found none. BUT I did not remove the box. I WILL come warm weather. I am guessing I will find something behind the box. If so, I'll weld it up and afix some C-Roc plates and my steering brace and call it done.

 

Hydro-assist while cool and all, is NOT needed with only 33's on the street. :D

 

CW

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I got the CB in today!!

 

I mounted it on the pass side as close to the ash tray as I could get.

 

 

I tried a bunch to mount places for the antenna. But finally decided on a weld on tab to the doen tubes of the roll bar.

 

 

 

I also didnt like the lopsided look of a single antenna, so I mounted two! :rolleyes: :D

 

 

I ran the wires for the lights and the antenna wire inside the roll bar tubes for a clean install. I will silicone up the hole so I do not get any chaffing of the wires.

 

 

The power is direct with a relay and a fuse, siwtched thru the ignition.

 

It works very well, I was able to speak with My buddie over a mile away. I couldn't hear him at all, but he could hear me clearly.

 

CW

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I didnt check it as I couldnt find my meeter.....but dosent much matter. I bought the wrong mast...its NOT TUNEABLE!!! :headpop: :headpop:

 

I'm going wheeling Sunday, so I'll have more pics up sunday night.

 

CW

 

UPDATE; CB works AWESOME!! SWR is near 1:1, puts out very well. I was able to talk to the convoy of trucks leaving the trail LONG after everyone else went quiet.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry man, I forgot to do this!! I'll run out and measure now. I am sitting with nothing in the bed @ 35" center of hub to top of bed rail.

 

I have been thinking about the brace and found a way to inprove it. I took a short piece of strap steel and welded it across from the pipe to the top of the clamp. I welded the bolt in place as its now "captured" there anyhow.

 

 

 

CW

 

BTW,

Stay tuned, I have KEVINS WJ Track Bar conversion, JCR 1TON steering upgrade W/ZJ pitman arm, going in next week!!! Right after that its a complete rebuild on the HP D30. I mean complete, it includes, unit bearings, U-joints, ball joints, knuckles, stops, inturnal bearings and seals. Along with a fresh set of DANA 4:56 gears open/front and Aussie locked/rear. Not to mention the a D44 with that Aussie locker!

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I like it too. I put it on my TJ last spring.

 

Part of the reason for getting it on the MJ, is bacause I have already purchased a full set of TRE's as trail spares. So I won't need another set for the MJ, if both jeeps have the same stuff!

 

Its nice and beefy and mucho strong. It eliminates the dreaded inverted Y steering and the problems with TRE angles on tall lifts.

 

PLUS the people there are AWESOME to deal with!!!

 

CW

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Got the brakes on the 44 done tonight.

Also got new U-joints installed in my spare set of D30 axles. I then installed the new Unit bearings on the axles. I'm ready for install after the re-gearing.

 

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CW

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how do you get U-joints in/out... especially 17y/o ones?!!

 

we pounded on my brothers for HOURS to get them out... didnt even try putting new ones in!

 

It looks hard, but actually this went pretty easy! Did you remember to remove the retaining clips from the inside of the ears first?

 

One side was SUPPER rusty and the clips disintegrated when I hit them! I used the two sockets & BFH method, for removal. A 1 1/16" socket, centered underneath and a 5/8" on top. Hit the 5/8" with a BFH. Out they come. You have to be sure you give the bottom cap a place to go, thats why you use a 1 1/16 socket on the bottom. Once everything is appart, clean and inspect for damage and problems. then apply a light coat of oil to the inside of the "bores" where the new joints caps seat.

 

Re-assembly is easiest with a big vice. Start from the bottom. be careful none of the bearings flll over. Keep the stem of the joint as deeply seated as possible while pushing cap in. New seat the first cap and install its clip. Finish with opposite side cap, set with BFH and socket, install clip. Will look like this:

 

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Now repeat for other side. Then finished off with a hammer/socket. Finally, a couple blows on each cap with a dead blow hammer to set everything.

 

If we where closer, I would show you, I have another set to do this week end.

 

CW

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well i wasnt there persay, but he knows to take the clips off, cause he showed me HOW, but we didnt actually try on mine. paid 15 bucks for a local 4x4 shop to get at em, its usually 10 bucks but apparently mine were STUCK

 

i've got a spare shaft in storage, i might try it on that one.

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First off, WHAT A DAY HERE!!! It was 70 degrees, sunny and its Janbuary 6!!!!

Well, while I was waiting for the electritions to do their thing on the electric, I decided to put in the Kevins Track bar conversion unit.

 

It went VERY easy, no hangups at all!! All bolts for the factory frame mount came right off. I decided to change out the top ones to Grade 8 1/2" bolts of the same legnth. The bottom two, vertical ones are actually studs so I left them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My buddie, Art (Eagle knows him too) stopped by to see it go in and lend a hand!! Thanks man!!!

 

 

ALL NOISES are GONE!!! VERY solid feeling I only drove it about ten miles, but its WAY better than it was with the fagged out bushing!!!

CW

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VERY NICE MJ!!

 

I'm a newb and I've got a couple questions for you if you don't mind.

 

I'm going to guess the 4 tires on the ground are 33x10.5s and the spare is a 33x9.5? Or does it just look skinny? What's your wheel width and backspacing?

 

And as near as I can tell, you're running 4-4.5" lift? I can see that the trimming at the back of the front fender was necessary, but do you think you could've fit the tires without the trimming and flare moving? If you didn't have the rust of course, lol.

 

TIA, I appreciate the advice and sexy pics! (of the truck, not you, lol)

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VERY NICE MJ!!

 

I'm a newb and I've got a couple questions for you if you don't mind.

 

I'm going to guess the 4 tires on the ground are 33x10.5s and the spare is a 33x9.5? Or does it just look skinny? What's your wheel width and backspacing?

 

And as near as I can tell, you're running 4-4.5" lift? I can see that the trimming at the back of the front fender was necessary, but do you think you could've fit the tires without the trimming and flare moving? If you didn't have the rust of course, lol.

 

TIA, I appreciate the advice and sexy pics! (of the truck, not you, lol)

 

First off, WELCOME!!! :cheers: Thank you for the compliments too!! jamminz.gif

 

You are correct about the tires, four on the axles are 33X10.5X15 while the spare if a 33X9.5x15. The axle rims are Outlaw II with 3.75" of BS while the spare is a factroy steel rim with 5.5" of BS. because of the narrow width, it is just fine with the stock BS.

 

You need to trim the lower rear edge of the front flairs. but with 4.5 thats all you really "need" to do. I am sitting at 6.5" up front, (4.5" springs with 2" spacers.) and 4" Rustys springs and 7.5" shackles in the back. ( Rustys springs get about 5", while the shackles another 1-1.5")

 

I trimmed and relocated the flairs mostly for the rust elimination.

 

CW

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RE drop brackets are on order...

 

I should get the MJ back in a couple days with brandy new gears, rebuilt D30, and new D44 rear complete with a Auburn ECTED!!

 

Then its off to the body shop for a MUCH needed paint job!!!

 

I also got my JCR steering painted!!

 

 

CW

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