ComancheKid45 Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 Well atleast ya caught it before it got TOO out of hand, I peeled up my XJ Carpet the other month and it was spotless under there but after reading your situation id hate to end up with the same fate :( Good luck with repairs! Gonna reinstall Carpet or go Bedliner? Also i recommend POR-15 either way :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 About identical to mine...including the decent paqssenger side. I should have access to the millermatic250 this weekend.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 8, 2010 Author Share Posted July 8, 2010 For now, I cut out the infection, replace with new steel. (Welded in and seam sealed) Then POR-15'd :bowdown: and painted. Maybe bedlinered. As far as replacement carpet, its not likely. I always liked the idea of a vinyl/rubber floor in a pickup. I hit the floor with the wire brush, then wire wheel in the drill and vacuumed everything up. Lastly I wiped everything down with fantastic and a rag. It smells SO much better in the cab!! :cheers: :cheers: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 Hopefully the weather holds out for me to get the floors done in the MJ this weekend... Tonight started out prepping for tomorrow and ended up cleaning and straightening out my tools. OH, I did add a bolt to the top of my swing out gate. Back when I built it I only mounted one clasp at the bottom. I figured it would be plenty as the gate sits on a 1/4" piece of steel on top of the clasp. But I have had a vibe after a bump since building it. Recently its been much worse. I found that the bolts holding the swing out to the bed had loosened. I tightened them up and most of the worst vibes are gone. But there is still some after hitting bigger holes. SO, I figured a additional attachment was in order. With the gate closed, using a 3/16" bit I drilled thru the center of the upright and the gate all at once. Then I came back and with the gate open I drilled that hole out to 3/8". With the correct bit for a 5/16 thread, I drilled the upright out to that size and followed it with a 5/16x16 tap. I ground the back side flat and cleaned off all the paint. Then I threaded the bolt in and added a nut, which I welded in place on the back side of the upright. Then I made up the attachment bolt. I welded a 1" ring to the head and painted the whole shebang black rustoleum. The gate is quite solid now. Tomorrow I put it together and go for a ride to get the plate steel for the floors and will see if I did anything... I also cleaned up the set of vents I picked up on EBay. They are stainless steel, so no corrosion, just some tarnish. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 I only had a short time according to the weather man... SO, I got out there early. I began by trimming out the cancer and see how big a hole I actually had to repair. Well it wasn't that bad really.... About 6x11 inches and up about an inch the seam going to the fuse box. Problem is I didn't see that little inch until my welder burned thru... I added a small 2x4" piece welded to the new steel and the floor. The steel is some scrap I have had for some time, its even stainless steel! I trimmed out the basic size. Shaped it to the hole. Then ground back the paint and seam sealer so I got a good weld. And I burned it in. I spaced the welds from one side to the other never more and a 1" bead. After about 45 minutes I had it completely welded in. I couldn't get pretty welded jumping around like I did, but it will suffice... :roll: Then I got underneath and sealed the seams with some Henry 208 sealer for roofing. It not made for cars, but is an incredible sealer from water. I applied it to the seams from the outside and feathered it into the steel. Then shot the whole thing with good rubber undercoating. Lastly, I wire brushed everything again followed that with the vacuum and then a wipe down with acetone and a clean rag. Then a quick coat of POR-15. But mother nature didn't cooperate...not at all. Just after I finished the welding, the sky looked pretty mean.. and I was finished the POR-15 with a umbrella, but the first coat is done!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 Not much of a picture guy, but i used a similar roof cement except that it came in a paint can and I applied it with a putty knife. I ended up with a killer headache, probably from fumes of burining sealer, etc...from welding. I finished the patching but ran out off time. I slammed the seat back in and sprayed some primer on the bottom. I will have to pull the seat back out and POR or such ASAP. Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 Not much of a picture guy, but i used a similar roof cement except that it came in a paint can and I applied it with a putty knife. I ended up with a killer headache, probably from fumes of burning sealer, etc...from welding. I finished the patching but ran out off time. I slammed the seat back in and sprayed some primer on the bottom. I will have to pull the seat back out and POR or such ASAP. Nice work! Thanks man!! :cheers: Roger that on the head ache!! I saw some smoke and cleaned more of the seam sealer off away from the heat. I'm certain that's what did you in. I was more lucky, no head aches. But it sure did stink!!! The forecast grounded me from the fishing trip that was sked for today... (Lightning and rain storms and a boat on the sound doesn't make for a safe fishing experience.) :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: SO, I got out there early and threw a top coat over the two coats of POR-15 I did yesterday. I never liked top coating with the same color. You cannot see where you are thin or spots you miss altogether. So I looked threw the paint cabinet and found a can of Rustoleum hammered paint in silver. Its kinda brite, I may re-paint again, either black or blue. But for now, this is what it is. Now, if the rain holds out till it dries enough to bolt the seats back in... CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted July 11, 2010 Share Posted July 11, 2010 I kinda like it like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 12, 2010 Author Share Posted July 12, 2010 Its been a busy weekend.... First thing today I put the finishing coat on the floor of the MJ. Just after lunch, I put the interior back in and then I jumped on the hood vent install.... I measured and re-measured and found a spot that I liked. I put them as far back and as far "out" from center as I could. Laid down some tape, marked the out lines. I drilled the corners for the saber saw. Then cut them out. A quick trip to Home Depot netted some more Blue spray paint, some clear sealer and a bunch of stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers. then I ran into a small clearance issue... On the DS, the air tube was very close to the front most corner of the vent. On the PS, it was worse... That new temp rad cap is taller then the standard Stant cap and sits about a half inch below the bottom of the hood. I had to trim the bottom of the vent for clearance. This was easy enough, but the drip pans still need clearance. Speaking of drip pans. This is why they are needed... That's the distributor... ...and that is the throttle body with all those sensitive sensors attached to it. :yes: ;) Here is the drip pans I made up. They are from the same sheet of stainless steel I used for the floor repairs. I bent a seam in the middle with a 3/4" rod and a hammer. I purposefully made them wider on one side for better coverage. I have extra material so I could bend a lip on any side if needed. For mounting, I used 3"x10x24 machine screws. I used nylock nuts for the vent mounting and reg nuts on top and bottom for the drip pans. The longer screws are used to keep the pans spaced away from the vents. Allowing hot air out and collecting any water that gets in away from the sensitive electronics. Here they are all done!! I like the look and hope they work as well. When I cut the hole, I couldn't believe the heat that came out of them! So I am hopeful about the outcome! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 what if you bolted the slots from underneath? still have the slots just no mounting plates showing but looking good nonetheless :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 Today I switched out the plywood test spacers I had between the hood and the hinges. They worked well for a test, but compressed with time and where not thick enough to really do anything. I think one inch is the magic number. Then don't forget to remove the gasket at the rear edge. (like I did for a couple weeks. :headpop: :roll: ) I used 1x1x1/16 square stock. Holes drilled at proper spacing with longer (1.5") metric bolts. Its a great, easy way to see if you will benefit form hood louvers/vents. Completely removable and cheap too!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 ITS FOR SALE!!! YUP, I am selling my MJ!! :secret: Most of you know what it is and what its got. But if you do not, most of the extensive list modifications and upgrades is outlined here. viewtopic.php?t=1230 It has 93K original miles. AW4 automatic, PS, PB, 4WD. A nice stereo, great speakers and nice seats. There is really nothing wrong with it, simply stated, I need a bigger truck. Something that can pull a larger trailer. It is a great running, driving and wheeling truck. I really like owning and driving it. The one thing I am keeping is the new set of Cooper tires. It will be sold with the 33x9.5x15 BFG MTs. My asking price is $4000 as you see it in last pics. Spread the word. CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camjeep3 Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 :( :no: :( :huh???: :nuts: say its not so! you have done an awesome job with this truck. so much work, as can be seen in your build. lots of effort. good luck with the sale. what are you thinking will take her place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juan Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 My good friend CW is going crazy... :nuts: I have spoken to him but his mind is set, I know what he is doing but he does not want me to tell.... CW other passion is firearms and knives - lot's of them - so I must stay silent. :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 See, I told you guys are the cool kids were selling off their MJs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeegy410 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 its a shame to sell it :dunno: but on the bright side, you have done so much to this one that i think its time to start a new one anyway, so even if the next one isnt an mj i would love to see a build thread on here. you do great work :yes: good luck with the sell :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STERLING STINGER Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 hey cw, wanna come over and work on my truck for me? lol it looks great buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche County Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 PM me the sell price. In the meantime, may I send a dozen roses to your MJ? :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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