CW's MJ 2005 - 10

[1990 Pioneer 4x4]

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Bold choice :cheers: Look forward in hearing more about it’s street & trail performance, after you log some more miles.

[wyk]

So how's the locker treating you so far? I love the one in my 'stang. In fact, I like the occasional clunk. ;) But, for the most part, it's invisible.

[DJM/78]

I'm still torn on the selectable / non-selectable rear because I do allot of that in town turn around type driving .

I don't want to loose any more turning radius than I already have . I'll be curios to see your evaluation on how it performs in street style

driving . Very cool though !

[CWLONGSHOT]

Mine is a LWB auto. Its AWESOME!! I wish I had done this from the start!! its 99% Invisible. Even when it shows itself, its a chirp chirp chirp in a corner. No clunks while driving... yet. I do get a clunk going from drive to reverse.

 

Its EXTREMELY street-able with my combo. Would likely be just as good in a SWB, slightly more apparent in a stick.

 

I ran one for a couple years in a 300HP 302 V8 1978 Mustang King Cobra. It was also very street-able, but much louder in turns. Just the click click click of the dog teeth riding over each other.

 

This Detroit is "soft locker" technology and its very quiet! I haven't herd it click at all. I have had a couple Lock-rites and EZ-Locker and a AUSSIE. ALL where very noticeable with the click click noise in turns NOT under power.

 

I COMPLETELY and wholeheartedly recommend it!! as a matter of a fact, if you local enough I'll let you drive it. You can see for yourself!!

 

CW

[MiNi Beast]

Good deal man! That;s goona be nice addition to the jeep.

[MancheKid86]

nice, they should make a multi locker XD

Detroit for the pinion gean + viscous for the wheel axels

[CWLONGSHOT]

Dusted off the HF Bender and bent up two pipes for my bed side protection!!!

 

I think they came out purdy good for the third and fourth bends ever with it!!

 

To recap, I'm using Black pipe. its for the bed side rails to protect from tree damage. the will run down the bed sides with "stand-offs" every so often. then be reinforced with one or two "cross bars" connecting right and left sides.

 

I read allot of tips on using one of these benders. the one common thread was GO SLOW!! I started by polishing the mandrel, then the pipe itself. Removing all paint and smoothing the surface. then a thin coat of wheel bearing grease. then while bending, I limited the bend, releasing the pressure frequently. As i got close to 90 degrees, I got out the square to check. Both sides are bent just over 90 degrees. but as I will only be using a couple inches into the bend, it will be unnoticeable.

 

 

I do have two depressions in each pipe, but they are minor and the pipe is completely usable for my needs.

 

 

CW

[dakal]

looks good. did you smooth out the wheels so there wasn't a place to hang up the pipe?

[CWLONGSHOT]

looks good. did you smooth out the wheels so there wasn't a place to hang up the pipe?

no, the rollers where very good, I did lube up the axle pins tho! :D

 

At the start of the bend, I had them as close as possible. maybe this is wrong, but its what I did and they didn't move at all, but this will not get you a 90 degree bend with this diameter. So i widened them to third and finally second to widest and pumped to the end of the stroke. Out there, they rolled with the pump stroke nicely. This go me to 90 degrees. the "dimples came form having the rollers too close.

 

CW

[dakal]

got ya. i'm going to use .095 and we will see what happens...

[86FUBAR]

you really need to ditch the rollers and make some fitted sliders , they work much better and won't dent the pipe . and so far the ones i made that fit the 1 3/4 pipe have worked out well on the smaller sizes even though its not fitted

[dakal]

need picture please

[CWLONGSHOT]

you really need to ditch the rollers and make some fitted sliders , they work much better and won't dent the pipe . and so far the ones i made that fit the 1 3/4 pipe have worked out well on the smaller sizes even though its not fitted

 

I saw/read a thread/post on these. I DEF would if I had allot of bends to make! I really don't. I have four more bends to complete the front piece, so for me, its more work than necessary.

 

From what I read, saw, your absolutely correct! they made a HUGE difference!

 

CW

[CWLONGSHOT]

The manifold arrived today... GOTTA LOVE QUADRATEC!!! I ordered Yesterday and its on my door step today! The best part, NO EXTRA CHARGES!!!

 

 

First thing I did was drill out the spot welds on the warm up preheat tube...

 

 

I looked it over and found that the welds of the tubes to the flange where quite obtrusive. they protruded over a quarter inch in some places into the runners. I know it won't make much of a difference, but out came the air grinder and I smoothed them up nicely!!

 

 

Then I taped off the gasket surfaces and threaded bungs and cleaned it off with carb cleaner and acetone. Then shot it with a coat of Plastikote, aluminized header paint.

 

 

Part and gasket numbers:

 

 

Install this weekend!

 

CW

[Darren]

I'd love to know if that Rattle-can manifold paint actually works.

[CWLONGSHOT]

I'd love to know if that Rattle-can manifold paint actually works.

 

Agreed, but something is better than nothing and if it does work, I'm better off... if it fails.. well the manifold would have rusted anyhow, rite?

 

Directions on the can, (As long as I'm reading correctly... the type is mighty small.) Run for 15 min, cool for 30, run for another fifteen, cool for 30 then your done.. the paint is cured on the engine.... You know I'll tell you what happens... :brows:

 

CW

[dasbulliwagen]

Ive never seen rattle can exhaust paint that really lasted any length of time, but then again, Ive never done the curing method either. :doh: But like you said, if its gonna rust anyways....

[DJM/78]

Being that its a new manifold , the paint should stick much better than trying to clean an old one . However I've been using some of that ceramic paint from Dupli-coat .

Still holding up good even on the tie-rod . Probably have to do it over now and then .

Looks good there CW !

[CWLONGSHOT]

Got out to the garage about 8 AM and started the exhaust manifold swap, done before noon...

 

Went really smooth. The one casuality was the throttle linkage. Where the cable runs thru the square hole on the side of the intake. i snapped the plastic 'block'. I think I have a spare or two..

 

 

The manifold has some really bad cracks!!

 

 

Took about 4 hours taking my time. Its running and sounding nice and quiet!!! Gotta go re tighten everything up and call it done!!

 

 

 

Burning off the fingerprints and heat curing the paint...

 

 

CW

[dakal]

cool or maybe hot

[CWLONGSHOT]

Today I added a piece of 1/2" round stock for a safety chain mount.

 

First I bent up a piece of stock.

 

 

Than I tried a couple positions. Cleaned off all the paint and re clamped for welding..

 

 

MAN it was NO FUN welding upside down with slag dropping down your shirt, shorts and up your sleeves...

 

 

 

Then I painted everything up...

 

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Its on and will suite my needs just fine!

 

 

CW

[Automan2164]

HOLY MANIFOLD CRACKS BATMAN!!! :eek:

 

That thing must have been L.O.U.D.

 

Fine job.

Rob L.

[CWLONGSHOT]

Tonight I got a visitor... a visitor baring gifts.

 

 

My new rims for the MJ .... Gotta decide on what tires and then a size. For the tire, I want something street friendly as it spends most of its time on the street. but don't really want a AT. Want something more aggressive so I don't have to swap tires any longer... I really wish there was something 34"x10"x16 (305x80x16) in a metric. But its most likely I'll end up with a 285x75x16. BFG makes a 255x80x16. Both at just over 33" the 75 is just over 11" wide and the 80 just over 10".

As for the tire.. Maxis bighorns, Goodyear Kevlar, BFG MT's and Kuhmo MT KL71s are what I have looked at so far. Kuhmo and Maxis are the cheapest at about 200 ea and the Kevlar and BFG tops at closer to 250.

I always bought BFG...Now I'm thinking I may try something else...then again, maybe I should stay with what I know...BFG.. I don't know. Good thing is, I don't HAVE TO get them now.. I can put it off till the winter maybe next spring. I could even run these MTRs till spring/summer. They have plenty of life in them even thou they are small... (245x75x16) :dunno:

 

CW

[MjAllTheWay]

Tonight I got a visitor... a visitor baring gifts.

 

 

My new rims for the MJ .... Gotta decide on what tires and then a size. For the tire, I want something street friendly as it spends most of its time on the street. but don't really want a AT. Want something more aggressive so I don't have to swap tires any longer... I really wish there was something 34"x10"x16 (305x80x16) in a metric. But its most likely I'll end up with a 285x75x16. BFG makes a 255x80x16. Both at just over 33" the 75 is just over 11" wide and the 80 just over 10".

As for the tire.. Maxis bighorns, Goodyear Kevlar, BFG MT's and Kuhmo MT KL71s are what I have looked at so far. Kuhmo and Maxis are the cheapest at about 200 ea and the Kevlar and BFG tops at closer to 250.

I always bought BFG...Now I'm thinking I may try something else...then again, maybe I should stay with what I know...BFG.. I don't know. Good thing is, I don't HAVE TO get them now.. I can put it off till the winter maybe next spring. I could even run these MTRs till spring/summer. They have plenty of life in them even thou they are small... (245x75x16) :dunno:

 

CW

 

What are those off of i think i am getting those same rims for free jest want to see if they fit my jeep.

[CWLONGSHOT]

They factory rims are off a '06 Rubicon. They are a cast/painted rim not aluminum as many think. I really like the look.

 

Here is Hubbel's with the same rims in the same size tire I am considering:

 

 

CW