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3800: Series Two


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crank = $224, $34 core charge

head/intake/exhaust gasket set = $103.99

conversion gasket set (lower end) $36.99

rings = $214.99 (holy effing shizer...)

fuel rail O-rings $6.24

performance oil pump = kit $61.99

timing chain kit = $93.99

 

that's already $743...I don't want to spend that much, but I don't want to take it apart again.

 

here is where the water was sitting up in the intake

getting it torn down a bit

intake is a bit wet....

empty engine bay

bottom end open

 

not as bad as I thought it would be, but I'd hoped to just clean it up and put new bearings in...

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well, the engine parts are on their way.

 

new crankshaft,

piston rings

wrist pins and clips

oil pump

water pump

full gasket set

timing set

performance cam on warantee...it has one in it with flat lobes on number two and three lifters.

 

I'll be rebuilding this engine by the end of the month.

 

tomorrow I'm picking up an OEM driver's side bedside for $60. it has 2 hours of work on it and only needs a small dent popped out. complete inner and outer bedside.

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that 3800 you are using what did you end up with? Did you try for the s/c 3800? if power is what you want you are better off getting a reg 3800 and depending on whether its series 2 or 3 mate a gen iv or gen v s/c to it. It will give you a slighlty higher c/r with the none s/c engine. The series 2 would probably suit better as parts are easy to come by for relativaly cheap, and the series 3 unfortunatly is lightly on the pricey side.

 

keep us updated id like to see where you end up.

 

(ps. you do know that the sc on these engines is actually just a positive displacement blower which are inefficient when they are out of there operating range).

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that 3800 you are using what did you end up with? Did you try for the s/c 3800? if power is what you want you are better off getting a reg 3800 and depending on whether its series 2 or 3 mate a gen iv or gen v s/c to it. It will give you a slighlty higher c/r with the none s/c engine. The series 2 would probably suit better as parts are easy to come by for relativaly cheap, and the series 3 unfortunatly is lightly on the pricey side.

 

keep us updated id like to see where you end up.

 

(ps. you do know that the sc on these engines is actually just a positive displacement blower which are inefficient when they are out of there operating range).

 

 

I already built the truck with a 1996 3800 series two. I'm not using an SC block for precisely that reason. I have an eaton m90 supercharger for future mods.

 

the 3800 in this truck got me up to 29mpg interstate, and the lowest I ever got was 18mpg though driven nicely it averaged 24mpg city.

 

trust me, i know this engine EXTREMELY well. already had it apart once, on the second shot already due to something getting in a main bearing from the oil sump.

 

 

on a side note, the @#$%er at alpha auto in green bay neglected to tell me (until I was standing at his office 3 hours away) that they crushed the OEM bedside months ago.

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haha good to know man sorry I'm gung ho for my 3800 now lol

 

they're a really sweet motor.

 

the only reason I would use a S/C block is the core material is more dense due to a higher nickel content. my block is just fine though, it's just the crank and oil pump that I consider junk.

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Problem with the higher compression ratio and supercharger is exactly that: too high a compression ratio. If you up the air pressure at the intake to pump more air into the engine, you end up with a higher air pressure in the combustion chamber and as a result a hotter combustion chamber leading to detonation. There are a number of ways to help alleviate the problem, including running higher octane gasoline (more $ every time you fill up), lower compression ratio to, retarding the spark timing (somewhat effective), and a popular one among twin turbo Supra owners: water injection. Squirting water into the combustion along with the fuel to retard combustion is very effective and will not decrease your power. But if you run out of water you will have instant detonation. The one guy I know this happened to (former next door neighbor) destroyed 4 of his 6 pistons within the span of a fraction of a second. Ended up junking the car cause the engine was not rebuildable. Stock it was 320hp, boosted to 500+ by upping boost of the turbos.

 

Anyway, sorry for going off on a tangent. If you insist on supercharging a higher compression engine, water injection is not safe because of the above mentioned problem. So you're left with limiting the pressure, running higher octane gasoline and retarding spark. What octane gasoline you're willing to afford is a personal question, and tuning the amount of boost and timing depend on that.

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lol. I've not thought the supercharger through entirely as of yet mercel.

 

it won't be going on right away with this rebuild...perhaps I'll build another block, or perhaps I'll run stock heads on it when I do go to a s/c setup. we'll see how this setup works for me without the supercharger and a couple years down the road I'll worry about it.

 

important thing is that I got the supercharger, in GREAT shape, oiled it, and packaged it away safely for future use jamminz.gif

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its all about balance in the end. well that and how big your b*lls are. waters safe if done correctly built a homemade unit with a low tank warning ( runs window washer fluid, shurflo pump , nos fogger tip which is wet version so converted to dual stage water based on boost pressure...etc). but anyways not the forum or thread for this lol sorry man

 

 

cheers, jesse

 

it is a gen v s/c you said? if you ever decided to depart with it let me know can always use one for a solid port job and snout milling :)

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its all about balance in the end. well that and how big your b*lls are. waters safe if done correctly built a homemade unit with a low tank warning ( runs window washer fluid, shurflo pump , nos fogger tip which is wet version so converted to dual stage water based on boost pressure...etc). but anyways not the forum or thread for this lol sorry man

 

 

cheers, jesse

 

it is a gen v s/c you said? if you ever decided to depart with it let me know can always use one for a solid port job and snout milling :)

 

 

*shrug* idk it's from a ford supercoupe or something along those lines. the car only had 1500 miles on a crate motor before it was totalled...all I wanted was the s/c so that's what I got before it was scrapped.

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  • 2 years later...

coming back home this weekend with it, putting it in dry storage for the winter, and (finally) going to go about rebuilding the motor and doing the body work on the bed this winter.

 

the cab/chassis will have to wait until summer, as it's going to be a completely gutted, non-rolling truck that will be soda blasted before I even think about putting it back together. if there's rust, I want it gone. that will likely entail a completely new floor pan.

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  • 3 months later...
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Oh, I still have it, but priorities are priorities lol.

 

I'll get to this one in due time...but not until I'm ready to do it right. I won't be restoring this truck a 3rd time in my lifetime, so it's going to have to be perfect.

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  • 4 months later...

Bummer...  You need to update your sig.  Put to rest. :(   Maybe someday you'll run across a prestine MJ in your future, but it's going to be hard to yank that motor and install a Buick one at that point.

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