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Okay so my search hasn't exactly been the most fruitful of the following question. What are the dimensions of a Renix 4.0 TPS bolt and IAC bolt? I wanted to replace the bolts because I lost one, the other TPC bolt started stripping at the torx head, and the IAC bolts somehow have a triangular shape to the shaft. On a whim yesterday, I took the TPS bolt to the hardware store, and it seemed to match with an M5, but the M5s that I took home seem too big. Today I returned and noticed that the TPS bolt will thread into both the M5 and the 10-32 gauges. But when I compare the bolt to what they have, it seems the threads don't sawtooth together with the 10-32 bolts. Or maybe it was 8-32, heck I dunno, I've got so many numbers already to memorize... The IAC looks to have a larger diameter shaft. '89 4.0 Renix, by the way.

Cleaning and rebuilding my throttle body was a project that seemed daunting while leading up to it. However, this project was FAR LESS of a big deal than anticipated. This guide is a helping hand for those 2.5L guys that haven’t done this before. Since the throttle body is going to be out anyway, I’d recommend doing all the things Cruiser54 suggests. Removing the TB opens up so much room to get at the things that might be bugging you. This whole project took 27hrs that stretched out in 3 weekends. Besides the TLC I gave to the throttle body, I also did this stuff: • Tighten all Manifold Bolts to spec... I had one of these bolts missing! • Clean all Wire Harness Connections • Firewall to Intake Ground • Clean PCV Valve • Clean EGR Valve • Clean Intake Air Temp Sensor • TB 4-Hose Vacuum Connection • Replace Any Vacuum Hoses • Adjust TPS What You’ll Need: Standard Motor Products #1605 Throttle Body Rebuild Kit. The key is to take your time and be methodical. Read up on manuals, label stuff, and take reference pictures as you disassemble. Since I have an 86 MJ I bought this manual for assistance: 1983 - 1987 Jeep Throttle Body Fuel Injection Component Service Manual Published by Detroit Iron and can be purchased through Rock Auto General Order of Operations: • Disconnect Battery & Unscrew Gas Cap • Disconnect Air Bonnet Assembly, with Vacuum Hoses • Disconnect Fuel Lines • Disconnect TPS, WOT, ISA & Fuel Injector Connectors • Remove EGR Valve • Disconnect Throttle Linkage Spring & Cable • Remove Throttle Plate Assembly (keep the ISA motor attached) • Remove Throttle Body Assembly Once the air bonnet assembly and hoses are off, there’s a plastic part on the very top of the TB that needs to be taken off. Once its off, the TB removal process becomes much clearer to recognize and understand. Just go about it logically. Lots more room available after TB is removed! Use tape for identification and to keep out grime — Note: firewall to intake ground improvement Dirty Throttle Body The throttle body itself is pretty straight forward to dismantle. A few Torx sockets will get it apart. I used a plier with deep teeth to lift the fuel injector out. Use a twisting motion as you lift to remove it. Others use a slotted screwdriver to pry it out, but I think the plier method is best. I used a mini bar clamp to help take apart the fuel injection pressure regulator. Inside is a strong spring, and this little clamp helped out tremendously. To clean the throttle body I’d recommend using a few Scoth-Brite pads. They’re flexible and won’t do any damage. I used a full can of throttle body cleaner during the cleaning process. A nylon brush comes in useful for the exterior, and a few pipe cleaners did wonders for inside the tubes. Throttle Body After Cleaning Re-assembly was easy. Only a few things will be used from that #1605 kit. Just match up the old with the new. The mini bar clamp came in handy again when bolting together the fuel injection pressure regulator. A few pieces of low tack tape will help hold that orange diaphragm in place as you close it up. Clean & Assembled Throttle Body Clean those Electrical Connections! Throttle Body Bare Vac Connection New TB Vacuum Hose Connection A word of advise... this picture above was taken before I successfully connected my clean throttle body to the new hoses. I failed at the first try. I ended up pulling all four hoses out, and barely reattached them to the vacuum hard lines. Why? Because you'll need all the available hose length to successfully attach the TB. Have a heat gun ready. 1) Lube every metal tube with silicone spray... including the TB brass tubes 2) Warm hoses with a heat gun 3) Slowly, but quickly get that clean TB onto the hoses 4) Continue to warm with heat gun if needed. Also, be sure to place your intake gasket BEFORE mating the TB to the 4 hoses. Clean & Fresh 2.5L Throttle Body with New 4-Hose Vacuum Connection All Buttoned Up!

Hey Guys! The cold here in Philadelphia has delayed my work on my 88 Comanche project, 4.0 5speed. I got the slave cylinder put in and the transmission back in about 2 months back and figured why not try to start her up. I bought the truck not running and it hadn't run in 3 years. Well not surprising, didn't start. Cleaned all the ground, and electrical contacts. No dice. Everything having to do with ignition looked brand new, obviously someone had tried to start her before. What the missed? Crank position sensor. Put a new one in and tried to start her up. She lives again!!! Cranked up on 3rd try. She is running rough and over revved to 3000rpm but i am not all surprised. Its been a while since anybody loved her. Probably will need a new IAC. Any other thoughts on the high rpm? My next task is to fix the throttle body. The spring does not release. if i hit the gas it will stay in position. Tried soaking with pb blaster, didn't seem to help. My question is should I rebuild it? How do I rebuild it? does anyone know where to buy a new one. Only ones I have found thus far are not Renix compatible. I would almost rather replace than rebuild but if i cannot find one, that is not an option. Any input would be much appreciated. Thanks in Advance, Ant

I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the the bored renix throttle body from http://www.strokedjeep.com and if so what luck they had and any real benefit? Thanks

Lately I,ve been getting poorer gas mileage (approx. 17-20 mph) and blowing black smoke when I get on the pedal. Is there an adjustment on the TB or could there be other causes? thanks

Hey guys so as some of you have checked out my build thread, I have an '06 engine of a TJ on my MJ, and the PO either did not want to struggle with adapting and finding stuff for keeping the HO intake manifold, or (what I think happened) he probably bought a wrecked/salvaged TJ and the original manifold was probably cracked so he just installed the old renix on it to get it running. Anyways, I already got me a new set of Headers, and the HO intake manifold and of-course bolted right on, but the only doubt I have is that on the old Renix fuel rails it had what I think is a Fuel Pressure Regulator, and a Return Line? Anyways when I got the new fuel rail and Injectors ( :brows: score! for $19.00) at the JY it only has one port, or entry instead of two, as the old Renix fuel rails do. So Basically my question is, do both fuel lines that come from the gas tank spit out fuel? if that was the case could I just cancel out one? or What should I do? Anyways those are my doubts, any Help is Greatly Appreciated! PS: I know I've been slacking a lot on wrenching on my truck and posting on my thread so please forgive me and give me $#!& about it so I can get back at it my friends here haven't stopped but Ill take any sort of motivation over no motivation at all! haha Oh and don't feel bad for talking smack! hahaha :yes:

Hey guys!, So I have a slight problem with my truck, the other day i was leaving school and got in my comanche ready to head home when i turned the key and (insert sound of 4.0 liter trying to start but not quite getting there here.) and i said to myself no problem, i have been having some throttle body issues so some starting fluid should do the trick, and just like any owner of a 20+ year old truck should have in their emergency kit, i had some. so i popped the hood and sprayed some in and tried to firer her up again. it still did not start but this time was really close. It had never not started after a little starting fluid so i was a little concerned, but i tried for another 10 minutes at it or so, it still didn't start. At this point having no tools i needed to call in back up, so i called a family member and told him to bring the tools. When he got to the truck we went through all the basic stuff (plugs, electrical lines, throttle body sensors) but came up empty handed, and then my cousin said to me "can you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key?" and sure enough when i turned the key i didn't hear anything. So naturally at this point we concluded that it was a fuel pump and i would have to change it in the school parking lot the following week. Later that weekend my dad and i went out to the truck and he told me to try and start it, it started right up and i was able to drive it home. Has this happened to anyone else or am i just the weird one out. In these situations i would have rather it had not started in the parking lot with my dad because at least then you know what you are dealing with. Now there are a lot of unknown variables, and i don't want this to happen again. Thanks, Peter