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My current Dana 30 in my '86 has a bent axle housing, making it impossible to get my axle shafts back in after I was replacing a seal. Anyways, tomorrow I'm headed to the junkyard to pull a Dana 30 off a '98 Cherokee. I can't think of any major problems with doing this swap, but wanted to double check and get input from everyone on here, as I know there are probably many that have done something similar or know things I don't. I will most likely be using my original carrier with a new locker so that my gearing matches. Anyways, as the title states, anything I need to know??

So, noticed a shake every now and again, so I decided to check and grease the front suspension. When I went to grease the pass side tie rod end, the joint moved!! So... Time to replace and/or upgrade. The problem: what year is my axle? Truck is an 89, but everything was changed on it before I bought it.. D30, non-disconnect, hi pin, 27spline... All seems correct, but when I go for upgraded tie rods, I come up against 84-90 or 91+. WTF is the difference?!? More importantly, how do I determine difference? HELP...

So... The DS outer axle seal started leaking on the MJ. This is a non disconnect axle with an outer tube seal. It's this correct from the factory, or has it been retrofitted? Took it apart, inner axle was rusty and pitted, but no signs of water. I'm wondering if this wasn't an inner seal axle someone installed before I got the truck (u joint had been replaced recently). We sanded it down and put some tacky Lucas red grease on it to help with leakage, but to no avail... It's worse lol. So the big question, it's this the original axle setup or a retrofit? Also, does anyone know what inner axle I need to replace it, and is it worth it to upgrade to chromoly? Thanks in advance for the help!!

Hi I recently added fresh gear oil to my front diff, and now it started puking it out through the passenger side axle tube. Also I tried to test the 4x4 and it is not working, so I think either the diaphragm in the axle to lock the shaft is done, or my new to me axle has some more issues.. I hope not, but since I already need to take a peek inside for the oil leak I'm thinking of just manually have it locked and leave it like that, I thought of getting a stock shaft of a newer TJ/XJ, but I think that since the split shaft looks thicker than a stock TJ one, I'll just leave it there till I save some $$$ and buy me some RCVs What do you guys think? Also Another question I had is that since the split shaft stays inside the housing whenever you take out the outermost part of it, is there another easier to get to seal around the split shaft?, or do I actually have to take apart the carrier in order to change the differential seal? Any Help would be greatly appreciated!

So for about 3 months now Ive had a ford 8.8 ready to swap in including a new 5.5 inch lift. :doh:I have everything to do the lift and swap and i know how to do it, but i haven't yet because its different gearing then my dana 30 upfront right now and i need a drivable car and 4wd here in the upcoming colder months. But now that i have this 1995 4wd cherokee with a non CAD dana 30, I'm going to pull it out and have it re geared and put that in my comanche. I'm not going to build it up yet because i don't have the money because i started school and can't work as much, but i just want to replace what i should and get the parts to re-gear it. I'm just wondering what i need to buy for a re gearing? thanks. Id like to get the parts so that i can do this ford 8.8 swap, new 5.5 alexia lift and then this dana 30 all in one weekend. BTW I'm not doing it myself, but i just want to have all the parts ready to bring to the shop. also, the shop in town here is cool with bringing in your own parts. . :MJ 1: . (me after swap)

So I'm getting all the supplies for my 8.8 swap and i need to get some new 4.10s for my dana 30 cause its geared with 3.08s right now. Whats th best and cheapest ring and pinion and some websites have a lower ratio carrier. whats that? thanks and if i need anything else tell me please.

So I have 1987 jeep Comanche long bed with the 4.0l i6 Dana 30 upfront 35 in the rear, 31inch bfg AT, winch, bumper, lift, led bar, and I want bigger axles. I know Dana 30s are good and 35s suck so I want to upgrade to 44s all around. I'm handy with tools and stuff so I want to do this myself. I just need to know what size to buy and what else I need to know. I saw something about WMS. What size do I want for mine? Driveshaft? I just need to know all the things I need for a swap like this. thanks

Just bought an 8.8 for the rear and it has 3.73's. Mine has 3.07's.

Here is a pic of a homemade RTI ramp lol. . :MJ 2: .

Got a question for the suspension experts here in the forum: As you may know, my son recently converted his 89 MJ by performing the 99 conversion. In that conversion we swapped a Dana 30 into his front end from the 99 XJ. As we ran short of time rebuilding the axle was placed on hold...we changed the fluid, greased the ball joints and tie rod ends and had it aligned. As he is home from college for a week, we ripped it apart and replaced the following: Ball joints Sway bar links Track bar Hubs U joints Steering link (from Pitman arm to passenger knuckle) Tie rod ends Steering dampner We used all MOOG parts. Now the problem: When we took the truck for alignment, the front tires are both toed out - about 1.75 inches on the passenger and 1 inch on the drivers side. The tie rod ends are completely turned in without any more threads available. We thought Rock Auto sent the wrong tie rod ends at first, but my son went to two different parts stores and measured the ones we have against their stock - all were identical in length (we even tried the ones from WJ's and Wranglers...the lengths are all the same with only small differences in diameter). When I retrieved the old ones from the scrap pile - they are both 1.5 inches shorter in overall length but the thread end length is still the same length @ 2.5 inches - meaning the neck of the ball joints are different. We can find NONE that are the length of the old parts. Then, we checked the 87 MJ's setup. The tie rod sleeve is 36" on both axles, and the tie rod ends are the same part number as the ones we received for the 99! That vehicle still has about .5 of threads available for adjustments. How can this be? The knuckles are identical on both trucks... the ONLY difference is the axle on the 87 is 2WD and the 99 is 4WD...the hub is different but that is it (we had already rebuilt the axle on the 87...I went back and checked part numbers - they are all the same but the hubs). We finally found a tie rod sleeve at O'Reilly's for (no specific year) Jeep XJ that measures 34 inches long but the salesperson could not explain why that exists as all the others we have are 36 inches... Has anyone had a problem such as this? There are no marks or part numbers whatsoever on the old tie rod ends to identify them. :hmm: