Limeyjeeper

2 1/2" lift on 31's

I used regular 3 or 4mm clear plastic. All you are trying to do is keep any water off the door cards as the backing material absorbs moisture. Use the original ones as templates.

More shenanigans with the Jeep. This time interior lights. The dash harness I had was for a 91 Comanche and the cab harness was from an 89. So, the 91 has a 3-pin door ajar switch which doesn't fit in the hole for the 89. Well, I couldn't get it to work so I had to convert to the single pin switch. To do that I had to run a new wire between the switches and tap the under-dash lights into that ground. It is a yellow wire that I had to cut and redo. Once I did that everything behaved itself and I now have interior lights. Managed to add the Duramtec A-7180-BC interior lights. That went OK once I took the Bl/Wh wire and connected it to my new ground circuit. Also figured out the no cruise. I had not set the PPR setting in the GM PCM to 3 so it was very confused. I dropped a different base tune into the Jeep and forgot to change the setting in HP Tuners. Next project is getting my MaxJax lift installed so I can do the Bellhousing swap. I am WAY too old to be crawling under jeeps and pulling transmissions out on my chest!! Got the door switches rewired using the OEM plugs. Makes everything much more reliable. I also fixed the Digital Guard Dog issue. So now the key fob kicks the door locks. Sometimes you have to step away for a while and regroup before going back in and tackling wiring and realizing you had completely overthought the problem. So that is one more issue ticked off the list!!

I think it for the Corvette owners who don't know what a dipstick is lol

The 411 PCM (if that is what you are using) has no provision for oil pressure. It only has an oil pressure switch on/off provision which is Pin 70 Blue. That isn't needed to make anything run. I think that pin was only used in the Corvette tunes, it would kill the fuel pump if the PCM saw low oil pressure. I can also confirm I drive the Jeep Tach directly from Pin 10 Red on the 411 PCM. Hopefully yours will work too.

I totally misspoke in my previous post. It is the VSS signal that goes to the Speedo not Tach that needs to be split as you correctly state. So, your description is correct. If I remember correctly, I didn't run the tach back through the DD box just direct to the tach. I think the Tach will work fine using the output from the GM PCM Pin 10 Red. Don't worry about the DBW it gets its signals from the GM PCM. As long as you feed speed correctly to the GM PCM it will manage the cruise control through the DBW box. It is the same as the cable Cruise that I have. It is totally managed by the PCM. As long as the PCM is seeing the correct speed from the VSS the cruise will be fine. I am going to check the tach tomorrow and confirm that I went from the GM PCM Pin 10 to the tach. I know I didn't go through the DD box. The only thing I use that for is to convert the speed signal.

The Jeep VSS transmits VSS signal using square wave DC. The GM PCM is looking for AC Sine wave so the GM PCM doesn't understand the Jeep VSS output, so setting the GM PCM to 8k won't help you. That is why you need the Dakota Digital box. It converts the Jeep VSS Signal from 8000k square wave DC to 8000k AC Sine wave. You need to use Application 2 (Spd, Out, L-L) with OUT 1 from the SGT-100BT to the PCM Pin 21 RED. The Jeep VSS Sensor Signal which goes to the Tach also needs to go to VSS input on the SGT-100BT box. Set the PCM VSS Pulses Per Rev to 3 and make sure the Pulses per Mile to 4000. That will make everything play nice. I forgot to set the PPR to 3 which is why my Cruise wasn't working. It is not a perfect speed match. At higher speeds it wanders by a couple of MPH but nothing serious.

It looks like the number of wires you are dealing with is significantly smaller. The stock harness could be downsized by about 50% if the harness was logical. The number of splices, doubling back of wires and insane ground wiring creates an unbelievably inefficient harness, which makes this option very intriguing.

Was the painless bulkhead connector a straight fit into the MJ bulkhead or did you have to modify the hole? It looks like a great solution that enables you to get rid of a bunch of crazy wiring in the OEM harness that is unnecessary.

They haven't dropped either of those names!! New Cherokee is due in 2024. Grand Cherokee name is alive and well. The CEO of Jeep told the Cherokee nation chief in 2021 that they won't be dropping the name, as they shouldn't IMHO.

Interesting The Jeep Comanche Wants a Piece of the Ford Maverick (motorbiscuit.com)

Depends on the year. There were some pin changes over the years between the bulkhead connectors. The Auto harness itself will work with a manual trans without any issues. You will just have some connectors you won't use.

That is outrageous. You can buy a new AX15 and reman transfer case for less than that from Novak Conversions.

Telling a Londoner he is Scottish, (and visa versa) is fighting talk lol!! I had a local upholstery place do the dash. They smoothed out and filled the old dash and stitched the vinyl together and laid it on. I don't have it any longer but here are a few pics. Before After

No they wanted nearly $2k and a year to fix it. They are masters at what they do but you pay for it

I did get one refinished in vinyl and then I found an NOS one. If you cover it you have to use a very thin fabric as the dash is a very tight fit between the A pillars.

We have all been there!!

Done

It would work fine. The foot brake has the same amount of throw as a handbrake. When I converted my first MJ from foot to hand it worked just fine. The drums are no different to what was on an XJ which didn't have the foot brake. The disk setup still uses drums for the park brake.

By the time you rebuild a 35 yr old axle you might as well buy a brand new one from ECGS or somebody else

Smooth as glass!!

it is always a process with an MJ. Keep plugging away, great job so far.

So I added the oil cooler and also relocated the oil filter. No way to keep the filter where it was. With an oil filter takeoff it hung too low. I never liked where it was positioned right next to the front driveshaft. I used a Setrab remote filter (SET-RFHU77-22-22) An Evil Energy 10 row oil cooler and a Canton Racing remote filter adapter (22-598). It was the only adapter I could find that would fit with the Holley pan. The Corvette LS pan needs a M22 x1.5. This setup also allowed me to use a longer Oil Filter. I used AN-8 lines. Plenty big enough. I overall gained nearly a quart of oil capacity. Should compensate for the smaller corvette style pan. The truck has a much deeper pan +2.5". Makes a big difference with cooling. I managed to install the filter right next to the cooler behind the winch I also went back to the Corvette power Steering reservoir. With the Novak fans I had enough room to reroute the intake in front of it. Much cleaner install. I burped the coolant system for ages and left it overnight to cool off. It is too cold out now to know if these changes worked. They must make some difference. Next project is rewiring the door switches to use OEM plugs which I happened to find in really good shape. Currently I have female pins pushed onto the switch pins. Not ideal. I also need to figure out why the Digital Guard Dog key fob isn't locking the doors. I think I know why. Just need to prove it!!

I believe you need a class B hitch, a 4.0 engine with auto trans, trans cooler and trailer brakes to get to 5,000lbs. I think towing 5,000lbs with a Comanche would be an experience!!

Key parts have the lenses. You can find them on ebay. Dzimm can do the housings. Look in the vendor section for more info. Or his website... You need to message him to get on the taillight housing build list. https://zimmdakindustries.com/