BIGHEEP

I think I have one. I'll look tomorrow and grab a pic.

I have run into this as well. I just pulled the upper shackle bolt first then reversed the lower bolt position.

I think it is more of a family Jeep than a girl Jeep but I would suggest a 2008+ Liberty. By the newer body style they had the bugs that plagued the first gen sorted out. We bought ours in 2008 and with 90k on it we have only had to do brakes thus far. Regular oil changes are key for the 3.7L.

Wow, the NH Comanche owners are coming out of the woodwork.

I have you both beat. My old MJ didn't even come with floors. That was a factory option right?

10w30 in the ax-15. That is what the Jeep dealer uses and recommends.

Or if you never received your discount card?

You gotta love the dueling spotters. Passenger!...Driver!............ Passenger!... Driver!

Good point with the wheel drop. I don't really get why the steering does not clear either. The only thing I can think of at this point is that the RE 5.5 coils gave me more than 5.5"s of lift. The front is currently sitting higher then the rear SOA. If that was the case though I would think the drop pitman arm would have fixed it. At this point I really don't know what direction to go in.

Check the seal around the door stop?

Shortening is simple. Lengthening is a lot more involved. It requires re tubing the shaft. They basically only use the ends. It is also about 4-6 times the cost of shortening depending on the diameter and wall thickness of the tube you choose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4P75ZQvpws

If anyone is looking to put these on a lifted vehicle here is the link to the shock lengths. The shocks you want are in the 585xx-586xx ish part numbers. http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf

Well, I replaced the pitman are with a drop arm and it helps but still hits the end link. Funny you say that. The old style RE swaybar disconnects were straight. They use a metal spacer to space the link out from the mount. In the first pic you can see I replaced the spacer with a couple washers that were much thinner then the spacer. I was trying to make the tierod clear. I went to my parts pile and found a pair of Full Traction swaybar disconnects off my buddies old TJ. They have bend in them which eliminates the spacer. Houston, we have clearance! Not sure you could slide a piece of paper between them but they clear. It does hit the end link mount at almost full clock but a little love with the grinder should fix that.

Yes the tires are centered. I am using the RE double shear track bar. Here is a pic with the track bar installed and the tires on the ground. The more I look at it the more I think the drop pitman arm may let the tie rod just clear. I am just surprised so many people run this setup without issue.

OK, here are some pics. I removed the alignment shims and the tie rod still hit.(sorry blurry pictures.) So out came the angle grinder. I ground off the little raised ridge on the face of the bolt head. It just clears. But now I have a whole new problem. It now hits the end link bolt. No grinder is going to fix this. Am I missing something? I could add a drop pitman arm but I am not sure if that would give me enough clearance. I don't understand how some people with the same lift have no problem but it just isn't happening on this truck.

Since the lift is in and the tires are on.

Well, the finger is feeling a bit better so last night I decided to finish the SOA in the rear. It is nice to have the truck off the jack stands and mobile again. The truck sits a little lower in the rear. There is a bunch of stuff in the bed including a HD read bumper so hopefully it will com up a bit. If not I will have to go with a bit longer shackle.

I was thinking you meant it was controlled at the axle. You are right the np231 does have vacuum lines running to it.

Make sure the rod on the ignition switch is adjusted properly or didn't pop off. Try reaching up under the dash and moving the rod by hand to see if it starts.

I am not so sure about that. My vacuum solenoid died in my old 86 but the light still came on. Also my 88 XJ with a np242 had no vacuum disconnect.

I figured I had some free time this weekend so I would spring over the rear of the Comanche. I got up early, disconnected everything attached to the rear axle and cut the u bolts. I started to wrestle D35 out of the way with my jack when it rolled off and it landed on my ring finger. :mad: Ouch! I pretty much knew it was broken as soon as it happened but spending the rest of the morning at the urgent care confirmed it. The axle also tore the skin so now I am on antibiotics. Today I tried to work on it again but after whacking my finger a couple times I gave up. Hopefully my finger will feel a bit better next weekend so I can make the Comanche mobile again.

See that is exactly what I was looking for. Thinking outside the box.

That is what I am thinking. If you are gonna do it, why not just use a 97+ center console. That might be a far reach for a cupholder. Or why not swap to a floor shift? I might go with a 97+ console but i will still have to address the shift gate hole. Swapping to a floor shifter would be way to much work. I'd have to swap the column, gauges, and reroute the shifter cable. I really don't think filling the hole is a problem. I was just seeing if anyone else had done it and how they addressed it.

That is what I am thinking.