Renegade

I was lucky. I started on Mazaks that had conversational programming, then switched to an old Cicinnati mill with G-code. Man did I have to learn quick. I spent most of my time on Integrex 4 axis lathes. They worked fine but anything complex had to be done in manual format which was all g & m-code anyway. I know the newer mills the company bought were running a Windows Fusion setup.

CRAP. Can't get my computer to play it. I'd like to see it since I was a cnc machinist for 13 years. Is it anything like the swiss turning machine I saw at IMTS in Chicago that spun out an ink pen in 33 seconds? It was made of mild cold-roll with a cap that snapped on the end. It threaded together in the middle after they put in an ink tube. I still have it. Nowhere as complex as an engine block, but 33 seconds?!

Well like I said I didn't have an answer for the guy since I didn't know if it WAS possible. Basically to swap over all the electronics & injection & stuff. Basically everything from an HO motor onto a Renix block since I hear all the horror stories of hard-to-get parts for the Renix motors. It was just something brought up that made me go "Huh"

I unvieled my MJ at my jeep clubs recent chili cookoff. Everybody drools over a Comanche :D We were talking about it having the Renix motor & how parts availability is getting smaller & smaller. Someone suggested swapping over all the necessary componants from an HO 4.0. I'm sure it's not possible but kinda got me wondering just what the major differences were outside of the computer(& accompanying sensors) not having to relearn at each startup. How about the motors hard parts, ie, pistons, cam, even injectors & such. I have no intention of pursueing this, just curious.....

U-joint press? I've changed many a joint with a hammer & socket. :redX: :D

I have the Rusty's 4.5" with ACOS(used to level it out as well) I found out real quick you need adj control arms to properly locate the front axle & maintain castor angle. I went with R.E arms & they are stretched to the MAX. It looks great but rides rough due to the extreme angle of the arms. I actually had to clearance the lower shock mounting plates to avoid contact with the arms during droop. Rusty's adj arms have a nice bend that adds a bunch of clearance if you choose to go that route. I need to look into drop brackets since mine is a 2by that only gets road driven. Long story short, I'd keep the 3" coils if you want to run the ACOS. Either way, don't forget about longer shocks, brake lines, adjustable track bar....

Here's a few pics of mine. It's an '89 with a 4.0 auto. Appoligize for the driveway shots, but it is a 2by. I have a built TJ for trail duty.

I cut my prop valve in half(mines an '89) and it looks exactly like all the pics so far. Completely useless as a failsafe. Maybe jeep will issue a recall ;)

I got a tow strap for my 2wd Comanche. I think they're trying to tell me something :brows:

Since I haven't had my truck long I just did the first oil change on it. I decided to use 10-40 & it did take nearly 6 quarts with the filter. Have to wonder why there are differences when each one is supposed to be built the same. I had a th350 trans in a chevy truck that would only hold 4 quarts after I dropped the pan & changed the filter(i did this every year). Every other one I've known held 5. :nuts:

My 4.5" Rusty's kit had the 1" droop on the DS front also, plus the rear sat WAY higher. They said the rear would settle(which it has started to do) but I threw on a set of ACOS spacers to level the front out, which made the fixed length Rusty's LCA's too short. Then I threw on a full set of RE adjustable uppers & lowers. Now I am officially broke since my $700 lift turned into a $1700 lift & it rides like crap because the lowers are at such a steep angle. I guess I need drop brackets now & a third visit to the alignment rack.....did I mention I'm broke? :headpop:

That's correct. Like I said, I wasn't sure I was reading you right. ;)

Well I don't like'em either, but for a "poser" 4x2 :oops: they'd work just fine.

Uh, do you have the arms on backwards? I thought the bend in the arm was supposed to be facing down on the axle end for extra clearance around the shock bracket, allowing more axle droop. Maybe I am reading it wrong??

What you gonna do with the drop brackets? My 2wd has the same problem. Maxed out short arms with too much lift, & while I don't need flex, the ride is rough. A set of drop brackets could help me out. I didn't know there was such a thing. Who sells these?

Got it. Pm returned. Thanks Stumpy. I may need some of your parts as well.I need to look at them again because I think the pass. side was siliconed shut & the handle was missing. I didn't care because the price was right & I just wanted to open the drivers side vent to get some air in during summer....although I haven't given up on breathing life back into the a/c system yet. I probably won't mess with it again until the weather warms up, like next June ;)

On this subject, is it possible to swap in a vent window assembly? My truck doesn't have them but I picked up a set of doors that do.(mine are rigid & do not open) I was just gonna repaint the doors & swap them out, but if a window swap is possible then.......

If you are dead-set on swapping the R&P, & have everything loose(which should only mean sliding the shafts out & removing the bearing caps) you may need a case spreader to get the carrier out. For some reason it seems front axles tend to be shimmed tighter than rears. You may be able to carefully(forcefully) pry the carrier out but then you have to get it back in...somehow. One other thing. If you have already removed the bearing caps I hope you marked them first. They are line-bored & must be put back on in the same position they were removed.

I ripped a LCA mount off my TJ's D30 & a local shop replaced it. I thought it was a Rubicon Express part & it was strong. Basically a chunk of 3/16 wall square tube cut to shape with a bolt hole in it. I had them skidplate the other LCA mount & box the pass. side upper mount right away. That is how the factory SHOULD have built'em.

omg.Gotta love the internet. Why can't I stop laughing?

I ordered a set of RE adjustable uppers & lowers. Expensive but proven. Worst part is I had a set of lowers from my TJ when I went longarm, & sold'em for cheap. Just didn't need them......until now :headpop:

Looks great. I know where there is a 2wd 'manche sitting in the weeds that I want just for a trailer. Just too many other projects right now. I had planned to slice the frame off at the bed & use heavy tube for a tongue, but I like your idea much better. I just don't know how it will look pulling a shortbed trailer with a longbed truck. Kinda seems backwards :roll:

I need to purchase a set. Who makes a decent arm for a cheap price? It's 2wd, so they don't need expensive johnny joints. Won't see trail duty.

Am I nuts? I thought Tellico was shut down.

The BFG's are awesome tires ...at a price. I saw a knockoff of the A/T the other day.(Dang I wish I could remember the name) Nearly identical tread at a cheaper price, but I've seen BFG's run 70,000 miles, so......