Renegade

That arm is designed to allow more axle droop before it binds in the lca mount on the axletube. It will look like it's on upside-down until you see it droop out. I don't know about replacement rubber bushings(I need one for my TJ's RE lca right now) but I do know RE sells a special wrench to snug up the poly bushing cups in the super-flex joint. It's a good tool to have. Wish I had one.

Welcome to the working world kids. BWAHAHAHAHA Remember this: The man that enjoys his job never works a day in his life ;)

I plan to get my '89 converted. The St Louis summers are brutal. I can handle the heat, but with the high humidity, a/c is almost required to live here(unless you don't mind sweating buckets). I talked to my local jeep mechanic/guru & he said no problem at all. About a hundred bucks for parts & labor assuming nothing leaks.

Well now ain't that funny. There it is :oops: Like I said, :hateputers:

Just got around to updating my profile. My avatar came up but I tried to submit a signature(several times) with no luck. What am I doing wrong? BTW, I know next to nothing about computers :hateputers:

34 years, 2 months, 6 days, 11 hours, 40 minutes

:nuts:

Yeah I remember thinking the TJ looked just fine on 31's too. Stumpy knows how long that lasted. Good to hear from you. Didn't know if I'd run into anybody I knew here. Bounty Hunter still come around?

I have the replacement sensor ordered for $27. Not too bad. I also ordered the above mentioned A/C Delco sensor then realized the obvoius. I need an electric temp guage & I have been trying to make a mechanical guage work(the type that has a copper tube with the nipple directly connected to the guage). I've always used the mechanical type before & never gave it a thought, but it won't work in this application.

I cut the wires because I couldn't fit a closed end wrench over the connector. The open end was rounding the head & I don't have a 3/4" line wrench, so I hacked it. Just to clarify, the sensor I pulled out has to be another temp sensor since it was in a coolant flow. I think the knock sensor is lower, just above the oilpan. I'm gonna see if I can get a new replacement sensor through Jeep, then I'm gonna remove the CORRECT one ;) BTW, A guy in my club has a spare sensor like the Delco one mentioned above, so I should be good to go.

Thanks and UH-OH!! Today I cut the wires off a sensor I thought(until now) was the temp sending unit. It looks exactly like the sensor in the 3rd pic except it is located on the side of the block right by the drivers side motor mount. Crap. What have I done :mad: So when I find the correct sensor, will the generic Napa guage I bought thread in? That's the problem I ran into today. The sensor I yanked has 3/8 pipe threads. The guage has 3/8 flare threads. I cannot find an adaptor for this.

I'm gonna hijack this post for a minute. My 89 4.0 just has an idiot light that's been coming on lately. I also lasered it & temps were normal, so I purchased a generic temp guage at Napa. Now for the question I'm scared to ask. Where is the temp sending unit & how hard is it to get at? I just popped the hood & looked around. Only thing I saw was what I assume is the oil pressure sending unit(next to the filter & behind the distributor). I guess I should put in an oil pressure guage while I'm at it.

Check out www.DirtyFabworks.com These are a few guys from our local club that happen to be home brew & microbrew fans. They have a forum titled "Beers"

It's amazing what you can get away with. I know a guy that had a knocking lawn mower engine. He dumped 90 weight hydraulic oil in it & it ran quiet for 2 more years.

Can I expect the temp sending unit/idiot light on my 89 to go bad(110,000 miles, 4.0)? The light comes on after a half hour of driving but when I shot a laser at the motor, I found temps ranging from 138 at the radiator outlet to 190 on the block & thermostat housing) I'd say that's about normal. BTW, makes no difference if I have the aux fan running or not(I control it manually).

Are the rates different because they look identical. When I pulled the coils to install the spacers, I compared them. If I threw them all in a pile, I couldn't tell which was which.

Wow, I didn't expect all the response! Awesome & thanks. I rolled a 235 up next to my 215 & it sat nearly 2" taller. That's why I was worried. I don't need any lift in the rear. Even with the spacers, it still sits low in front. I think the coils are about shot. I have the stock front coils off my '98 4 cyl TJ & they look like exactly the same spring so I may try them. Correct, no spool available for the 35. Most guys I know just weld'em. The axle isn't worth anything anyway, so no loss if it grenades :roll:

That's cool. Anybody running this combo? Like I said, I don't want to mess around with regearing the 35(or blowing it up for that matter :roll: ) & I don't want to overwork the trans & lose all my power trying to roll bigger shoes.

Just bought my second jeep, which happens to be an '89 Comanche. I intend to use it for a beater truck & just something to knock around in. Don't plan to modify it too extensively since I have a built TJ for trail duty. Anyway, it's a 2wd longbed 4.0 auto w/overdrive. It was sagging bad in front, so I threw in some coil spacers I had laying around & raised it about 1 1/2". It's amazing how much better it looks just doing that. Now I'm wondering if I can stuff some bigger tires under it to replace the little 215 street tires. I'd love to go with a 235 mud grip(it's 2wd, but has to get around our farm in all types of weather). I'm not sure if it'll clear a 235 & I don't want to overwork it or lose the use of overdrive. That's where the gears come in. What are the possible ratios I could have? I haven't had time to pull the dif cover & check the numbers. I'm guessing something in the 3.20 to 3.55 range. Whatcha think?