Renegade

Man that looks nice. Wish Ida bought a shortbed.

and you will be running Cooper tires.......hopefully at the employee discount price :D Good luck! Jobs are getting harder & harder to find these days.

Kenda has been around a long time. I remember my dad buying a set of Kenda tires for my 3-wheeler when I was in 7th or 8th grade, & I'm 35 now, so that's been a few years.

I guess I'm being pretty rough on Rusty's. In all fairness it sat low in front from stock. I threw in 1 1/2" spacers to level it out before I lifted it. Now I just did the same thing with the ACOS after the lift. I never gave it a thought, though. Most any kit you see advertised is altered to level a truck(6"front, 4" rear springs for example). Heck you can even buy "leveling kits" for new stock trucks.

I found a new trick today when I installed my spacers. I bought a second set of compressors. I jacked the truck up until I got the frame supported then put the 1st set of compressors on & cranked'em down before I drooped the axle. Then I installed the 2nd set of compressors which were able to grab lower on the already compressed coil & allowed it to be compressed even further. The advantages were twofold. First, it was much safer having 4 compressors spread around the coil, plus this let the springs literally fall out. No prying at all. The NAPA coil compressors are 40 bucks a pair, but with the 2nd set helping out, this was the first time I felt relatively safe working with a compressed coil.

Yeah all that stuff is fine, but I've swapped in dozens of leaf packs over the years & haven't had any settle that much, although they were all heavy packs for fullsize trucks. Plus now with the ACOS installed to their lowest setting(bottomed out) the rear STILL sits at least 1 1/2" higher. Hoping it will settle out to level. The Rusty's guy kept telling me the front coils were tall enough to clear 33's. Bull. That's where the problem is. I BARELY clear the 32's. The website pic shows their truck TOWERING over 32's. My front is nowhere near that. I absolutely HATE a lifted truck that has the rear jacked up higher. Looks stupid. I won't be hauling anything so level is what I'm after. Sorry to sound like a jerk. I'm just completely fed up with this.

I just called Rusty's & was informed I "wasted my money" on the ACOS since the rear leafs will sag down to make the truck sit level after a bit of driving. Anydody experience this? I've never had leafs settle much until they get old.

I ordered the ACOS. If I had a frame lift I would play with poly bushings. I have several laying around, but it's a major job getting those coils in/out & I don't feel like screwing with it :roll:

If you decide to use the Rusty's springs, the 33'3 will fit. I have 32's with a ton of room, but they are brand new so they may sag. Time'll tell.

Well I think there were comanchees in at least half the John Wayne movies.....oh wait, not THOSE comanchees :oops:

Started flipping through some catalogs last night & came up with the obvious fix. JKS "ACOS" adjustable coil spacers. 1 1/4" lift just installing them & infinite adjustability after that. Perfect. Just wish they were cheaper.

Just a follow up on this lift. I finally got around to finishing it(mostly-still got a few loose ends to tie up) & I am not happy. The rear sits a full 2" higher than the front. It barely clears the 32's on front. Then there is the big problem. The drivers side front corner sits at least an inch lower than the passenger side. I have double & triple checked the coils for proper positioning & made sure the isolators were OK. I haven't contacted Rusty's yet so I can't speak for them. I haven't ruled out I may have over-compressed the coil in my compressors when I put it in, but my RE coils compress completely on trails & always retain their ride height so I don't think that's it. Both coils have the same # stamped on them, but the drivers side coil just looks like it is compressed down further. Weak coil maybe? Anybody ever run into this?

I was considering a side exit. The more I think on this, I think I'll just slip in the performance muffler & see how I like it. It's 2wd, so the tailpipe won't see trail damage, but it is already hitting the rear spring-eye bolt since the lift springs changed the "angle of the dangle" of the shackle. Gonna have to do some tweaking.

I ran a 14 bolt with 4.88's & a Detriot behind a 400 horse smallblock with 42" Swampers. It never wimpered. Niether did the D60 front,even though it was only 30 spline.

Just removed the rear valve so I'm hoping that'll fix it. If not I guess the only solution is to replace the booster? I've never had to mess with one of those. Oughta be....uh....interesting.

Cool. That's what I wanted to know. I will save the tail section in case I need to reinstall it.

Oh yeah. They're in there. Once everything started bending, it doesn't take much to continue to bend since the structural integrity is comprimised. Anybody got a good straight set laying around they wouldn't miss, like after doing a springover?

I just recently( like yesterday) found out the worst part of removing the rear prop valve is replacing the main prop valve under the hood. I think it just may be easier to remove the engine first. Only took about 1 minute to remove the replacement from the donor cherokee with no drivetrain.

Now this explains a lot. I cut the factory rear brake hard line tonite on the MJ & had the same problem with it pushing through. I about stripped the bolts using a screwdriver to crank the wing nuts down tighter. Finally got it to hold & MAN that was tough tubing to flair. I assume it's stainless? Never gave it a thought. I sure hope it doesn't leak. I don't want to do that again.

I have this same problem. I'm replacing all the brakes right now but haven't found anything even close to wore out. Didn't feel like fluid pushing past the o-rings in the master cylinder. Booster problem maybe?

Who needs 35 spline?I don't care what shafts it has, you ain't gonna break'em. The shafts are damn near as big as the TUBES on a D35.

Yet another reminder of why I stay single

To maintain some backpressure?

Well I tried to torque the u-bolts down today. Not good. I got to 45 ft lbs with no problem. Went for 55 & the bolts started bending to the warped mounts, which I expected, but I started to get that "slipping, about to shear off" feeling through the wrench(if you've done much wrenching you know what I'm talking about). I stopped & I guess I'll just watch it very close for a while. If nothing else I can straighten the mounts in my press, then get some heavy stock, weld it on & drill the holes through. Probably should have done this in the first place :headpop:

Basically I want to remove the tailpipe. I have a very solid exhaust system now. Looks like the previous owner bought oem prebent tubing with all the factory hangers & such. Looks almost new, kinda hate to mess with it.....but I just threw on a cold-air intake & want to install a Magnaflow muffler to gain a few ponies. I can slip the muffler onto the existing pipe, but I am thinking of going back about a foot behind it(where there is a nice hanger) & putting on a turndown & calling it good. I could get rid of about 5 feet of pipe with 5 tight bends in it. My biggest concern is killing my torque. I did this on my TJ & it lost all low-end power. I put the tailpipe back on & it runs great(when it ain't smashed shut from rocks-why I removed it in the first place). Also don't want it to sound like crap. Opinions????