Renegade

I figured 4.10's would work, just don't want to be lugging the motor & heating up the trans. This truck will only see pavement.

Thanks. Great info.

Thanks! According to that, if I find a D35 from a 4-banger YJ with it's OEM 4.10's, it would work just fine(assuming it bolts in). I was leaning toward 4.56's, but that could wait.

I know this has been discussed to death, but just want to clarify. I have a line on a wrecked 94 Cherokee that I want to steal the prop valve from. Getting ready to install a lift & rebuild my brakes, including removing the wonderful rear valve setup on the 'manche. Want to make sure I get what I need. Just need to pull the prop valve that sits by the brake booster, right? After pulling all the old junk & running a new hard line to the rear, that should be it, right?

I'll be running 32" tires. What gears will the old Renix 4.0/auto be comfortable with? I'd rather go a bit low in case I run 33's in the future. Will a D35 from a YJ bolt in to replace the 35 I have now? Might be able to find one already geared that has been yanked in favor of something stronger.

I agree 100% about getting a manual trans......if you can find one. Almost rules out a new truck. GM has discontinued manual trannies behind their diesels. Can't even special order one. That just sucks. I seriously think my next truck will be a 1 1/2 ton chassis cab with a flatbed.

If you honestly have a use for a 4by(which you obviously do) then it's worth the extra $$$, but some others were saying a 2by was basically worthless, which isn't true. Your getting stuck twice a year can be a very bad situation, but me getting stuck on the farm is just an inconvenience. Really depends on your situation. One must consider this as well: I bought & will lift my MJ with the money I saved by getting a 2by

I REALLY get'em wound up when I inform them that 99% of them don't need an oil burner to haul/tow what they do. I could buy 2 of my gas trucks for what they spent, so the fuel mileage argument is a wash in my book.

I've owned 2 2500HD's, 2wd 6.0's. Never had either one stuck pulling the jeep or working on our dairy farm. Looks to me like somebody was driving where he should not have been. Why own a 2by? 3 grand cheaper & better mileage for starters. 4 wheel drive just gets you in deeper when you do get stuck :D

Ever seen a Ranger parked next to a Mazda?

Did you hear Jesus owned a Ford? He must have, since he walked everywhere.

Good catch Stumpy. I barely noticed the SIJA sticker. I don't recognize it either. I may copy the photo over to our site & see if anybody claims it.

Whats the deal with these discriminating people? You never see them trying to help a skunk cross the road.

I ain't much help since I took a Sawzall to my TJ's a/c, but I would think as long as the engine blocks are similar & you can source the brackets & hoses, it might be possible. Keep in mind you'll surely have to relocate EVERYTHING else that bolts to the front of the motor as well. Just curious, why you want to do this? Can't be any more screwed up than all the vacuum lines under the hood of my MJ :roll:

I would never condone this stuff now, but when me & my buds were about 17 we were out cruising some backroads when we come across a dead duck laying in the road. One guy gets the bright idea to pick it up not knowing WTF we were gonna do with it. After driving thru town holding the duck out the car window(wish i had a pic of that) he shoved it into some guys mailbox on a country road(he claimed to have some kinda beef with the guy :roll: ). It was a Friday night on the 4th of July which was a 3 day weekend....meaning no mail & a dead duck slow cooking in a tin mailbox in direct sunlight for 3 days. Man I felt sorry for that poor mailman. I noticed the next weekend the mailbox had been replaced with a new one.

Yeah that's what I thought. About all I'd be interested in is the bolt-on SOA kit since they sell it seperately. I'm starting to second guess myself. I'm thinking I'll be happy(even though I won't) with a basic 3" kit & 31's. Easier on the bank account plus I wouldn't need to regear. Decisions decisions. I hate this.

When I put in my spacers, I had the same problem but the track bar was even worse. Looking back, I shoulda just sat the jeep back on the ground & had somebody shove on the fender.

The rear spring bushings are shot anyway so that might be a good way to go. I'll check out the Rocky Road kit. Thanks. I like the bolt on option. I can spin wrenches all day long, but can't weld to save my life :oops:

I should have mentioned that the 5.5" kit has stuff I don't need, like t-case spacers. I also don't want to mess with SOA. I know it's great. Several friends have SOA YJ'S. Problem is I don't have a good shop to work in or the means to do the springover. I just want to do a bolt-on kit.

Well I was hoping to get by a little cheaper, but by the time I get a rear setup to work, it'll prolly end up just as expen$$ive. I may just get the 5.5" & be done with it.

I'm sure this has been discussed to death, but I'm gonna ask anyway. I'm wanting to lift my '89 2wd 4.5" & run 32" tires. I looked at Rock Krawler & R.E. mostly. I currently have a R.E. longarm kit under my TJ, so I know the kits & like them. I'm almost certain I'll go R.E. I will have to buy an XJ kit, so I can pick up the 4.5" superflex AAL kit for a good price(under $800 list). That way, I can use the front components & then decide how to approach the rear, since it most likely won't sit level with the XJ kit. Now for the questions. 1)will the non-adjustable arms shorten my wheelbase enough to cause clearance issues?(I had them before I went longarm & regretted it, but the TJ is a whole different animal.)Should I buy the adj. arms & resell the non-adj. ones? 2)Is anyone running this stuff? Just looking for positive/negative feedback. Keep in mind this is just going to be an urban wheeler, as I have no plans to convert it to 4x, but I still want a complete kit. Also, should I be looking in a whole different direction? I thought about piecing parts together, but I'm a truck driver & have very little time to work on this. I would much rather just order a kit & have it show up at my doorstep ;)

If I remember correctly, the LOWER control arms use the superflex joints at the axle end, but the UPPER arms have the superflex joint at the frame end(since the axle houses the bushings on the uca's). I see how someone could assume both upper & lower are mounted the same.

I just looked at RE's website(trolling for lift kits) & they show all the replacement bushings(large & small) as well as tools. RE is good stuff & they seem to stand behind their stuff. I have their 6.5" longarm kit on my TJ & it works great.

Cool. Thanks.

FINALLY got my temp guage working today & refilled the system. It is the closed system(89). I can't find any marks on the bottle to indicate where"full"is. I figured about half full was a good place to start. What is correct? BTW, I guess my old sending unit was bad. The new guage shows I'm runnin' cooool!