Bounty Hunter

Thanks, I get what you mean, I saw that original bracket and light up there under the tailgate. I'm worried that would get tore off from wheelin, as I'm sure my tail will be constantly draggin on the trails I usually take my YJ on.

Anybody have any pics of how they've mounted thier rear license plates to a custom bumper? And what about a plate light? I appreciate it, soon to burn some metal and build a bumper from 2"x4" steel. Also plan on using the stock bumper brackets with reinforcing plates and gussets.

Isuzu rear D44 will have the matching 6-lug and disc brakes to boot.

nope what?

The external clutch slave is '94+. You can bolt a '94+ bellhousing and tranny front output cover to an older tranny if need be.

I'm gonna do the gauge swap real soon, which two sending units do you replace? Did you buy new sending units or from a donor vehicle? I'll be swapping my MJ buckets for a bench soon, don't hear that too often.

Like being able to stand on the front axle to work on the engine ;) I just picked up another MJ, this ones a 2.5L for parts.

You can weld on the axle as long as there are no bearings between the ground and electrode.

Okay. I would think XJ would be closer.

Never heard of it that way.

The transfer case off the 2.5L is likely 21spline, and the output for the D300 is likely 23spline. Otherwise the bolt pattern should be the same, and your 231 would work by swapping out the input shaft. To remove the shifer for the AX5 (if that's your stock 2.5L tranny) you have to go further down torward the tranny and lift up the round rubber boot on the shift tower. Depress the spring-loaded locking ring under this boot and rotate it and it'll pop right out. Or remove the 4 bolts holding the shock tower on, turning the spring loaded collar is the easier of the two.

I thought most all had 3.73, just like every other model of 2.5L auto jeep.

A big seller for many Wrangler owners converting over to the AW4 is the benefit of the overdrive, allows you to keep the axles geared lower while maintaining driveability. If you're worried about the TCU, wire it up to shift manually with a switch, controlling torque converter lockup manually as well.

Here you would likely have to get a TPS from a 2.5L auto in order for the TCU to get the input it needs. You can always rig a switch to shift it for the sake of simplicity.

I run 5.5" coils, and my lengths were: LCA 17" UCA 16.25" Here's a chart, its not ultra-precise so don't take it as gospel, merely help in the right direction: www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html#arms Your stock uppers will be too short at that lift height.

www.dialaclutch.com . I've used the 1st one with good results, and recommend a LUK brand OEM clutch. They come with the clutch slave and alignment tool, at a great price.

No, and No. One of Kee's XJs has the manual shifter setup, you could probably take a look at his.

Very straight-forward swap, I pulled the extra line to the rear. Removed the mastercylinder to access the prop. valve easier.

Bit a hassle if not needed (KISS). Keep in mind that the AW4 can be setup to shift manually using an electric switch, including manual control over the torque converter. If you wanna spend the money for something that can be made in the garage: www.awshifting.com

It's the AW4 if it's a 4spd auto. Does the shifter have 1-2, 3, D?

That'll make a huge difference with bringing the COG back down.

If stepping it up a notch means seriously raising your center of gravity which in turn increases the likelihood you'll roll on those same obstacles, you've accomplished that :shock: How important is it to protect sheetmetal that's already banged up, at the expense of being more top-heavy?

I thought the AX4 was only behind the 2.5L, wierd.

Ubolt eliminator. My MJ sits pretty level with SOA and 5.5" coils in front.

Mine too, especially the PS inner fender.