Bounty Hunter

'89 XJ never came with a v6.

Yes, and a YJ/TJ box will work too.

I never said a worn front track bar caused death wobble. Did you read into the post too much?

I agree, I would start with the tires as something is beginning the shake, and it sounds like other worn parts are allowing that initial wobble to become violent. Also agree with the bandaid stabilyzer fix, I see that all too often.

Death Wobble is often not that easy to fix. The common problem I've found is a bad front track bar, usually the TRE at the upper mount. Have somebody bounce the steering wheel back and forth off of full-lock while you watch the upper mount. Another contributor can be worn out control arm bushings. Take a look at them with a flashlight while prodding with a screwdriver and look for rips in the bushings.

I like your receiver bracing, I need to do the same to mine as I think it needs some more strength for recovery, at least for my piece of mind. How's it connect at the frame end? Can you take some more pics of it? As for your driveshaft angle, are you running a CV joint shaft? Looks like the pinion ujoint angle is 0º, but the angle of the pic could make it deceiving.

I accidentally left the steering wheel locked once when flat-towing the YJ with our TrailBlazer, luckily it was very noticable within a short distance.

I've got a '91 MJ for parts, haven't checked the floors yet so I'm hoping the metal is useable.

Tell your friend you're considering a Lincoln Locker :twisted:

Depends on what your needs are. If you want the ground and tire clearance, and the aggressive look of a lift, go for it. There's a lot of people that 'froad with open differentials. If traction is of primary concern, more so than ground clearance, get a locker or two first. It's a trade-off either way, traction or ground clearance.

The caliper is 1-piece, with two pads.

Looks like they were flat-towing it. Also appears it ground away the ubolts and spring center pin, releasing the short leaves as the spring clamps would hold the longer leaves in place.

Could I use my 225 Lincoln buzz box to tack it in if I turn it down low enough? Or should I have my buddy Mig it in?

Anybody have to replace any floorboards? How'd you go about it? I've got to replace metal in 3 areas, and have the donor truck. Just looking for some tips.

You can put pics in your post by using the IMG tags at each end of the pic url ending in .jpg . You would have to host the pic somewhere besides Webshots as they no longer allow hot-linking of images.

I think I've got a pair from that parts XJ.

Probably a harsh ride as well, typical of short AAL's. I've got a set of MJ leaf springs for sale, would make a good donor for a full-length AAL. Or if you're ready for SOA I could weld it up for your spring pack without the short AAL. I forget what size tire you're running. The full-length AAL from a donor pack may not add as much height, you're talking maybe 1.5" or 2" over stock without stiffening the ride.

Anybody ever install the triangle vent windows that you can open in place of the stationary type? How tough is it?

I don't think the BA10/5 is as bad as everybody says, I had one hold up just fine in my '88 YJ with a built 350 and 33" Buckshots. Not all the Peugeot trannies are lemons.

Contact Randy's Ring and Pinion, they have a solid axle swap kit that includes the special seal and a block off plate for the disconnect housing, about $30 shipped to your door.

The chain parts-stores sell offset upper balljoints to correct the camber.

Leaf spring packs look thrown together, highly doubt this truck is factory but maybe a bunch of aftermarket add-ons.

Why you wanting to remove the CAD? It's a great option for manually controlling a front locker or welded diff. If it's a problem with it staying engaged and you have an open diff, simply remove the disconnect housing, slide the lockcollar over the axleshafts, and reinstall the disconnect housing upside down. This will hold the lockcollar permanently in place. I purposely sought out a D44 with the vacuum disconnect, it'll be cable controlled with a spool in the diff. Much cheaper than an ox locker ;)

GM Performance makes a 4.3L bolt-in replacement for the 2.8L, otherwise it's the smaller V6's which are much better than the 2.8L.

Newer TJ's have them in the tailgate behind the spare, out of sight.