TNT

If you are just adding 2 doors in, then everything will go back together just like stock. Just a tad more area to cover on the floor and ceiling. Just grab 2 door trim and extend the headliner. Mine needs to be recovered anyways. I'll just add a piece of carpet I have here to finish the floor and use 2 door sill plates. It's not that hard.

Bump for anyone who missed it

Just grab a pair of 6054HO sealed beams at Autozone. Stock 6054's have 35 watt low beams and 55 watt high beams. :nuts: The 6054HO's have 55 watt low beams and 65 watt high beams and are DOT approved. They are much brighter. :brows: Combine the 6054HO's with the upgraded wiring Pete talked about and you will have great headlights without blinding other drivers. :chillin:

I'm doing this for two reasons. My back is shot and I need room and the subs that will massage my back while I drive. I could careless if people don't like it. I've cut enough other metal it won't matter. It will have a full rollcage, a V-8, huge wheelwells for maximum uptravel and the only place it will say Jeep is on the tailgate... Like I tell my wife, it's mine, so back off, I'm building my way.... It should look like this, except wilder. Image Not Found It will be a mutt with Ford, Chevy, Mopar, Honda and Jeep parts on it. :cheers:

I have that one. I'll have a extended cab different then that one has. I like the X-Cab short box but with 2dr doors. I'll have the bed bobed, dovetailed and with comp cut fenders. Here are some other ones. Image Not Found

This sounds kind of familiar to me. :D We parted out a rusted out MJ so I cut the cab in half and brought the back half home with me. I'm going to cut the back of my cab off and extend it 8.75" to fit the 2dr doors I have. Then I'm going to cut 2" off the back of the cab and weld 6" of the original back of the cab back on. This will make the cab a total of 12.75" longer. I muight use some XJ rear door fixed windows in the cab sides. I'm going to move the rear axle back 2" by redrilling the spring perches. My box sides are rusted out so I'm just going to move the box back, cut a 18" section out in the rear of the box leaving the last 6" to be reused. This will bob the box. Then I'll cut the frame off right at the rear shackle mounts so when its all put back together the box and frame will end just after the shackle mounts. I'm also going to make my own wheelwells and inner box sides. The outer box sides will be comp cut starting right from front edge of the wheelwell just below the first bodyline and run all the way to the end of the box. The box will also be dovetailed so the inner edge of box ends at the edge of the frame. Then I'll weld the rear 6" of the box back on the end so it has the upper box corners, the tail gate mounts and the nice rear edge of the bed back on it. Then the tailgate will be narrowed to fit back on it. I'll be using some door skins to replace the rusted out areas of the box sides. I have a XJ 20 gallon tank I'm going to mount in the bed using a a XJ skid plate and I'll build a cover for it. There will be a storage box for spare parts and tools mounted on top of it. There will also be a hi-lift jack mounted in the bed and my spare tire. I have a panel flanger the make joining the cab and box repair pieces easy to weld on. It would be done already but I had some back surgury done. :cheers:

Ashman having a ton of fun. Amazing video. :bowdown:

Clean the throttle body bore and plate too. A specfic amount of air is supposed to go past it at idle. When it gets dirty the idle gets lower.

Here are a few things I could think of since I can't sleep... :yes: People have been swapping on '92 or newer 4.0HO valve covers because they control blow-by better. Brake rotors are cheap enough to just replace them. They warp easier/faster after being resurfaced. Get Performance Friction brake pads or another aggressive type of pads(MJ/XJ brakes suck). Bleed/flush the brakes until clean fluid comes out since its probably old and contaminated. You might want swap in a '95-'96 XJ dual diaphram brake booster and master cylinder for better braking performance also. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm Check the ride height valve(on the frame above the axle,has a link that goes to the rear axle) to make sure its hooked up and working. Make sure it's adjusted correctly too. How are you doing this when there aren't any locking hubs used on MJ's??? (They are available from aftermarket sources but I don't see them)... Use a Moog Problem Solver bushing kit. It costs more but is worth every penny. If its not leaking in probably only needs an adjustment. If you do replace the steering gear get one from a late model Dodge Durango.('99+ I believe). It has a forth mounting bolt. Get the inside and outside plates that keep the frame from cracking where the gear mounts. C-ROK has brackets for 4 bolt boxes also. http://www.c-rok.com/sb.html Also make sure the ball joints, trackbar and steering is tight without any play. You should also get pull points front and rear so you can be safely pulled out if needed. A slide in D-ring for your rear hitch and a set of Custom 4x4 front tow hooks will do a good job. Get a fuel tank skid plate and a transfercase skid plate for extra safety. There just was one of each in the classifed section, they might still be available. For the little bit they cost you should replace your headlights with a set of high output ones part number 6054HO. They have a 55 watt low beam instead of the stock 35 watt low beams and a 65 watt high beam instead of the stock 55 watt high beam. They are DOT approved. Then go out and properly adjust them. It will make a big difference. :brows: Change the transmission fluid, transfercase fluid(both use DexronII fluid) and change the gear lube in both axles. If it has a limited slip make sure you use the additive for it. I use 75w-140 Mopar synthetic gear lube in my Jeeps. Check the air filter and see if it needs a tune-up. Clean the throttle body bore and the throttle plate using a rag on your finger or tooth brush with carb clean while the engine is off and the throttle is wide open. clean the IAC while you are there(idle air control valve). That should keep you busy. :banana: :cheers:

I've seen it but never inspected it. BTW thanks for the location, time and opportunity .... :brows: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Now back to the tread in process. :cheers:

No, no matter how bad you ask, you cannot have Baby. :P I'd let you come visit and take if for some beat runs, maybe even a track day. It has to be rust free thou. :cheers:

This would be how I would build a lowered street MJ... :D ZJ upcountry coils with 1-2 coils removed The largest swaybar that an ZJ uses Add a rear swaybar Custom stiff rear springs built for proper ride hieght mounts relocated as needed. Bilstein 7100 shocks 8000rpm Mopar 340 built, camed, with aluminum heads for about 450hp :chillin: A 150 shot of nitrous for kicks Built TF999 3000rpm stall converter and a reverse manual valvebody NP242hd Dodge transfercase In cab adjustable proportioning valve WJ front knuckles and brakes ZJ rear discs 97+ nose fenders and doors Cowl hood Plum Crazy paint The tire / axle combo would be non-disconnect D30 with a true track geared, 4.10 frt gears with 275/35ZR19 tires and Rear D44 with a detroit locker, 4.88 rear gears with 305/40ZR22 tires. This would have a top speed of 154mph at 8000rpm and spin 3500rpm at 65mph. That would be a 26.5"x10.9" front tires and a 31.5"x12.4" rear tires. A 340 will happily spin 3500 rpm all day long. :thumbsup: Find me a rust free MJ and I'll build it. :brows: :banana: :banana: :banana:

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Thats what axle bind on dry pavement causes when in 4wd... I have seen this 4 other times, all were in 4wd on pavement. :shake:

Some details like the box measurements, the thickness of the MDF its made from, the size and length of the port along with the model # of the speakers will let me check it out on the subwoofer enclosure program. What amp will be used to power the subs? Make and model? It should sound good once the port length is fine tuned. The frequency you want the port tuned to makes a big difference. I would need to know that information also.

Yes. I have a box building program I use for building enclosures. I use it for tuning ported boxes, 4th and 6th order band pass boxes and sealed boxes. It plots the SPL output, gain along with other box parameters for each box design. I can build them for tight bass to loud wicked bass for rap music and for tune them for whatever hertz range is desired. I have all the tools need to sub build boxes, can do almost any work on a car or truck, and do steel work/fabraction/design. I'm an ex-Mopar Master Tech with 15 years of experence and did 80% of the electical work and 50% driveabilty problems that came in. I did everything except automatic trans work(Ido my own rebuilds thou) and diesels. Right now I have some Infinity and JBL Mono block reman amps for cheap prices. I have some used amps, a couple high end old school amps and some high end, top of the line Cadence amps from Europe. My biggest problem is a bad back so I need helpers for heavy work. I just had another back fusion done two months ago so I'm still in a brace most of the time. I'm happy to help fellow members and friends out, fab stuff for them and do whatever is needed. Hopefully I will be able to get my MJ's cab extended, the V-8 swap and suspension done so I can wheel it this year. It will never really be "done". :cheers:

If anybodys doing a subwoofer let me know. I have a bunch of real amps. Quaility for cheap.

It sounds like fuel slosh. I get it an low speeds below 1/8's of a tank. Did the tray the pump sits in inside the tank break loose or something. Mine has one. That would be my best guess.

My '94 XJ doesn't have that problem until about a 1/4 tank. Then it is on hard turns like 25mph rated ones at 50mph maybe drifting some coming out of the corner after the apex at full throttle. :yes: At a 1/2 tank I'm good to go. Play time is in session. I'm sure glad the salt is washed off the road and the pavement temp is up some. Good to go. :chillin:

for some reason, i find that funny...about the training in german Even better was I used German words I picked at random. They didn't mean what the comand was, but they did to the dog. :yes:

Did you have it inspected by the best most expensive bodyshop in town for hidden damage??? GET AN ESTIMATE!! They will try and screw you every chance they get. Watch your back. Go down to the police station and get an accident report. Then contact them with the results of the report and tell them to have a rental car delivered to you. It is as simple as that. I'm sorry I forgot to tell you that in an earlier post. Anytime you are involved in an accident get a copy of the police report for your records. Make sure you pick the bodyshop(most expensive) and if there is no lien holders on the car tell them that they can send the check pay to the order of you. Then take it somewhere else and save a few bucks for yourself if you want. :D Eight years ago somebody keyed my '95 XJ. I contact my insurance, got two estimates, the adjuster comes over about 2 hours later. Two days go by and a check comes in the mail to pay to the order of me since it had no lien holders. The $2800 helped the bills and the build budget. 8) They keyed in down to the primer but I didn't care because it was my trail rig. Two months go by, my insurance stays the same so I dropped the full coverage on it saving me more even money. :brows: :cheers:

There was a late 80's Cutlass that was rollin on 22's that burned a few months ago. He put the fuse by the amp instead of the battery. It shorted out after he parked it and went in the house. I guess he should have used a grommet in the firewall. The whole car burned. :rotf:

3000 watt of peak power from an amp don't mean squat. :fool: I want clean efficient sound. :chillin: Alpine mono amps have .1% THD and only >85 DB signal to noise ratio.... Dirty... :eek: Cadence mono and stereo amps have .04% THD and <100 DB signal to noise ratio and put out 20% more power then they are rated at.... Alpine X's subs are also inefficient with only 84 DB output at 1 watt.... My Wild Beasts are way more efficient with 95 DB output at 1 watt... :yes: Did you know that a difference of three decibels in subwoofer efficiency is equivalent to a doubling of the amplifier power. :brows: That makes my dual 500 watt RMS amps and Cadence subs have a higher much cleaner SPL/SQL level. 8) An 11 DB difference and clean power will win the race. :rotf:

Teaching comands in a different language works great. My wife doesn't like dogs so I haven't had one in 21 years. She decided she doesn't like Jeeps or me much anymore either... So it's time for her to hit the road . One of mans best friends will be replacing her.

Make sure his insurance provides you with a free rental car until your car is finished too. You shouldn't have to drive your MJ around.