TNT

:brows:

Nice LWB frame dimensions... He has a SWB MJ... :fool: Try again... :roll:

In Wisconsin you can get a Driving Under the Influence on a bicycle. Because you are driving your bike. By putting a engine on a bike you now have a motor vehicle which means you could also get Operating a Motor Vehicle Under the Influence also. If you have a suspended or revoked licence driving a motorized bicycle is the same ticket as driving a car without a licence. I recieved a speeding ticket that was for 11mph over the speed limit on a bicycle for $84.00 and 3 points was the penalty. I fought it in court and got it reduced to failure to obey a sign. It still cost $84.00, but was zero points. If I didn't have a drivers licence it would have been $25.00.

No is the general answer, but its not the whole truth... :fool: Yes you can mix ratios, but your tire height must be the correct size so the overall gear ratio is the same. I want to build a street thuck with front 4.10 and rear 4.88 gear ratios. I will be running taller tires in the back to get the same overall ratio/driveshaft speed. Mud guys do it so one end pulls harder. But they can only use 4wd when they are in mud. :cheers:

BDS has a stiffer spring rate for heavy bumpers with a winch or high speed off road use. I like the stiffer spring rate for handling on and offroad also. They have a great no questions asked lifetime warranty. OME softer spring rate for a better street and slower off road use. I believe they have a good warranty. I had real good luck with Teraflex 3" TJ coils I bought back in 1990. The new owner likes them also. They had a soft spring rate about the same as OME. I like stiffer front coils because they make the suspension balance better offroad. They make the rear springs do their job too. Having a well balanced offroad suspension is great.

A company handbook is rules for you. Look close and you will find the clause that means it doesn't apply to them. The labor board can't you help either. Only a union can help. It's not the unions that cause the failure, this it's the bigwigs at the top of the food chain that are paid more then 30 to 80 or more line employees make in a year. When you have offices full of them companys fail. Thats not counting expense accounts bonuses and company jets.... Chrysler deserved to fail as do the other auto makers. The bigwigs did it to themselves. They are clueless about how the company should be run and who to take care of. It's to bad the little guys building the cars and trucks are the ones to suffer instead of the company taking care of them. My next car will be European. I want a car that is well built. Even Japan builds better cars then us.

I see you have never worked for a union. You also must believe in the screw the working man therory some management has. I worked at a union shop and I was given raises by my employer above the union raises I mad $2.00 over scale due to my experence. When they try to fire you for a bogus reason. The union has your back.It's the CEO's who need the payroll cuts. I was fired for taling off 1 day when my dad died and the employee handbook said I was allowed 3 days off. Had this have been a union dealer this would have never happened. Unions are good for the average people it's the greedy CEO's with their high pay and bonuses that has caused the problems. The owner at the dealership that fired me lived in a 3.5 million home that was paid for and a vacation home in Florida that was also paid for. He was given the business 2 years earlier and was living in an apartment before that. We were told the business didn't make a profit so no one was given any raises for 2 years. He did buy 3 new Harleys thou... I am 100% for Unions.

Just let me know when you are home and I'll swing by. I have some parts for you and you have some for me so lets swap them around. I'm probably interested in more stuff also. All I know is I'm sick of driving my rust bucket and want my MJ to get done. Then maybe I can get the wife off my A$$ about my stuff. My therapist is recommending a new job or going with my long term disability insurance I have and living on it. So the MJ is it for me, after that I'll buy restored hotrod a a few years down the road from one of the guys I used to work with. I also want to find a clean 74-79 Dodge W150-250 as my winter beater and hauler as soon as I can afford it. I spend many hours looking at the MJ too sore to do much and it drives me crazy. I keep thinking about just giving up on it and buying something else. But I haven't gave up yet. I'm going to try to have the bed ready to pull this weekend and get the dash out so I can quit trying to burn down the house. I kind of know how you feel, but I wish I had a the chance to start over at your age so I wouldn't be like I am now. I can help you as m uch as I am able. You have worked too hard to give it up. I think keeping your 2 MJ's and building an Alfa is a great plan for you. Once thats done I think you would like a nice motorcycle too. If you set your goals you will become a happy guy once you start to reach them. It will be great for you to have some cool rides at your age and be able to enjoy knowing you built them. The feeling of pride you'll have once you are done is priceless.

This was another wasted moment of my life I will never get back. BLAZERS SUCK!!!

Cut out the top of my raised inner fenders and started reworking them for another inch of space. The cutoff wheel, torch and welder have been my main toys... Let's not forget the BFH thou. :brows: :cheers:

Quit wasting bandwidth and padding your post count with you stupid BS responses.... :thwak:

I've been up to 175mph on a GSXR1000. :brows: I think the high side of 185 would be a rush.

I heated mine with a torch and beat it with a hammer.

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Know that would be one sweet toy :bowdown: Does that one have the top speed limiter??? Either way that is a BAD A$$ED RIDE :thumbsup:

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Cleaned out the garage yesterday and will finish it today. Then I can pull bed off to get everything ready to extend the cab and plate the frame.

ZJ - 2 core all aluminum radiator with 1" wide cores. :brows: http://www.rondavisradiators.com/radgallery.htm :cheers:

Check out the dimensions of A 94-98 ZJ radiator. It should fit between the steering gear and the frame rail. It is also meant to be able to cool a 5.9 Magnum engine. It also is about the correct size for a Taurus fan. The V-8 radiator has a passenger side lower hose and a drivers side upper hose. It should solve your cooling problems and be budget friendly. :cheers:

Maybe he hooked up with a Honeyhole. :banana: :cheers:

My 87/88 book shows two numbers, the 83502855 & 83503114. Maybe one was for the earlier 207 case (IDK). Either way, earlier YJ yokes I have pulled off were more rounded, like the XJ yoke I posted (but with a deeper throat), and later ones were squared off. If I can find the other's, I'll post pics, and I'll snap a couple of the ground down XJ yoke if any of them are still around. I was going off of my first hand infomation I have. I still say a XJ joint yoke can't be ground to get the same clearance as a YJ yoke has. On the left is a new Jeep XJ yoke bought from the dealer I worked at. On the right is the '94 YJ yoke bought from the same dealer. Image Not Found To get the same angle before binding the XJ yoke would be ground into the machined sllip part of the yoke. This was why I say bogus, just look at the throat lengths. I have never seen a factory yoke thay wasn't fully splined. I may be wrong, but I know the yoke you have pictured looks just like the aftermarket ones I have seen. It could be a leftover from the AMC vintage. You never know about their parts... The operating angle is still higher on a aftermarket yoke even with the spline loss. So no it isn't a wash. Sorry if I offended you the bogus comment was meant for LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW's comment that it was a wash.

I bought mine directly from the dealership for a 94 Jeep YJ and all three I bought had full length splines. I bought part# 83502855 which was used on YJ's from 87-96. I just double checked all those years in the Jeep parts catalog to be sure. The only ones I have ever seen without full length splines were aftermarket ones sold as YJ yokes of extended travel XJ yokes. I was also a Mopar tech for 15 years and never seen a YJ yoke that wasn't fully splined. I have had probably over 100 rear driveshafts out of YJ's as a tech over the years. This is where I got my information from.

Don't have to look at the pic to see why; I understand this extended yoke has it's limitations on the operating angle even if grinded. But if your goal is just need to extend your driveshaft length with an op angle of maybe 12-14 degrees or less, this yoke will work just fine. BTW, the max recommended op angle for the 1310 Spicer joint is 12 degrees. This is not to say they will not function for awhile if the angle is greater as in your case, it's just Spicer's recommendation. :D Spicer reccomends that as the optimum angle. They rate 30 degrees as the maximum angle. After 12 dergrees they say the lifespan is reduced, but 50,000 miles without any play in the u-joint is ok by me. :yes: 10" of lift on a MJ will bind the stock yoke at droop and is 11 degrees of constant operating angle on a short box stick shift 4.0 model would be just fine with a YJ yoke. It would work just fine. :cheers:

You don't get the Dunce hat it belong to LEAD_NOT FOLLOW :dunce: right now. :thwak: Or should I say FOLLOW_NOT_LEAD. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: You made a tiny error compared to him... He pinned the BS meter... :laughin: :cheers:

The BOM(build of materials) is stamped on the axle tube not the ratio. You need to go to Dana's site to find out how it was built and what gears were used using the BOM numbers. I had a factory D44 4.09 geared MJ rear axle that I sold to JeepcoMJ. So yes they do exist and were an option.