UNL1MTD

I'm looking to replace the existing U joints for my 2wd driveshaft. Are they the 1310 style? I don't trust the parts guys to get it right, so I'll be ordering from somebody online. Thanks, Sean

I run the ravines, just like hornbrod and I have the same problem with my 2wd. I opted to get some Dupilcolor wheel paint and paint the dust caps the same color of my wheels. From a far its really hard to tell that its not a center cap and up close nobody has ever noticed. I'll snap a pic. edit- had this pic from right after I detailed her, she looks pretty and you can see the painted dust cap

I got mine from napa for about 15 a cable, all three cost me under 50 bucks. I'm driving an 87 though. My guess is just order them for an '87, with an agreement that if they are not the right part you can bring them back for a full refund. You have a long bed right? Post a pic of your old cables and I'm sure we can tell you if they look the same, my guess is that they are. edit-you are in finland, might be hard to find a napa there.

When I got my MJ on the road at first it was without an anti-sway bar because I donated my brackets to a buddy which hold the anti-sway bar to the body. I don't wheel the truck (2wd) and just driving it around to work or the dump was fine. In fact I thought the ride was pretty smooth. When I had a passenger that was large in size the jeep always sat crooked, which I thought was funny, but no big deal. Only time the thing got super scary to drive was when it was hauling a load in the bed. For example 2 yards of mulch in the bed. I couldn't go much faster than 45 because the front end was so light I had terrible steering and the truck just wanted to change lanes with the breeze. Thats about the only time it really puckered me up. I never had to take evasive action in the truck though. I put the anti-sway bar back on not to long ago and just last week I hauled 1200 pounds of topsoil, the truck didn't get wobbly on the highway or feel unstable in the least. I also did the same haul with 2 yards of mulch and albeit weighted down, it wasn't scary to drive or steer. Normal driving hasn't really suffered in comfort either. I personally don't see the appeal in removing a functioning device that adds safety at no sacrifice on the road. When you get to wheeling I definitely understand the need for the axle articulation and I disconnect my TJ for that reason.

no metal hooks

i think we should make stickers that you would put on the caliper upside down and they would read ... "If you can read this, put me on the other side!"

a couple guys bought that in my club and after amount 3 months of trying to make it work they all went back to stock. all experienced an increase in normal driving vibration, loss of steering radius, and funky hiem movements. Its the beef offroad, but just aint thought out for DD jeeps. IMO. Dirty why don't you like the Currie?

so you were having brake problems before you started changing the stock braking system? Is there any sign of leaking fluid anywhere along a hardline? Do you lose fluid after a series of compressions? Do you have some braking power or none at all? I.E. if you jack up a tire, spin it, then hit the brakes, does it stop? Is it a firm stop or just barely got it to stop? Might be good to try at all four corners. When you bleed the brakes the normal way (from furthest away from the master cylinder to the closest), do you get fluid coming out of each bleeder? I honestly think its a bad idea to just start replacing things unless there is a reason to do so, likely it will just cause more problems and cost you more money. Figure out what is wrong first.

x2 check this thread http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... e&start=15 page 2, almost at the bottom, some pics of the installed brace

I was also at camp jeep and I snagged a couple photos of the Comanche Crew from different angles.

x2 I bolted on the trackbar from my '05 wrangler onto the '87 comanche and it works fine. No difference in length at all, but the ball joint is greaseable, so thats a bonus.

I did the whole BSA thing, minus the last step. I went from tiger cubs up to attempting my Eagle project twice. First time I was denied by the review board for anti-troop political reasons. Second time my heart wasn't in it. I did manage a troop of 90 kids as SPL for 2.5 yrs though and drafted our troops code of conduct. I had a very positive experience with scouting, and I hope I have boys (when I'm ready) so I can go through scouting a second time. Our troop loved going to Treasure Island in the Delaware River for summer camp, I did that camp 3 or 4 times. We also went to a variety in MD, PA, and VA.

any pics of your custom mounts for your fuel tank and ebrake lines?

Looking at the Upper Arms - I can't speak to their durability, but it looks like they are easy enough to make of stock arms so why not fab up two more so you have some trail spares. In the event of a failure you got a back up set to get you home.

I don't get it though, did you just park there and it sink in (with tide and shifting sand) or did you attempt to drive into it and the swappers just dug you straight down? Either way, that sucks.

Alright I'm bored at work and I'm dreaming of putting some foglights on the MJ. I have a spare set of stock '05 fogs in the garage off a TJ, but they won't sit on the bumper because they are too deep. So I'm looking to see what kind of setups people have and what their impressions of the lights they have. I'm even interested to see what stock foglights look like on a stock bumper. Round, Square, whatever ... post up some pics of your fog lights if you got'em. Thanks. :popcorn:

thats exactly what I'm doing now with mine. Seems to not leak at all for normal driving with non stop-n-go, but if the clutch is ever in for anything more than a shift it leaks out.

did you ride that one 3d themed coaster with the vampires and werewolves? I liked that ride the best in the park when I went 2 years ago, I can't remember any of their coasters really standing out though.

worst I've ever had was when I was taking out the front coils of my TJ to change the bump stops. I wanted it to go fast, so instead of taking off the trackbar for more droop I just started pulling on the springs to get them out. I got it over the perch but then it expanded and trapped both my hands against the rotor. So each hand was pinned by the ring and middle finger on the rotor. thankfully I wasn't home alone and yelled for help. b*@$£ of it was that my roommate couldn't hear me over the tv. Had to wait for the adrenaline to set in then muscled up and compressed the spring with my hands and pulled them out. Fingers came out flat. It hurt stupid bad.

wow. dealer wants 225 dollars for it. napa wants 85. rock auto has them between 30 and 90. Thats a huge range. I am probably going to opt for the napa one. If it starts leaking again after 15k, I can replace it still for less and get another 15k. And if I honestly put 30k on this truck lifetime I will be surprised.

after checking the fluid level of the MC I guess its pretty clear that it hasn't been leaking/seeping for that long. The fluid level is at max, so I'm just going to keep an eye on it and clean up after it until a couple more pay checks role in and I can replace it.

i was thinking MJ/TJ ... comanche wrangler ... soft top MJ or something

I'm 99% sure my Master Cylinder is leaking. I just noticed 2 drops of oil right near the fuse box today on the commute to work. I was confused at first until I searched and it looks like this is the only thing that leaks in this area and it is fairly common. How long do I have before this leaves me stranded? If I shield/bag the fuse block (way stupid design btw to have the fuse block right in the flow of leaky MC fluid) what will happen? Will I just start loosing the clutch slowly or will it just abruptly quit and leave me stranded? I see some people get the auto store verisons for 30-70 bucks and they last for about 15k - 6 months. Others get dealership parts, how much do they run in price? This truck idealy will only get 7-8k a year put on it and my commute to work is going down to less than a mile in one month, so realistically it will only get 5k put on it. Thanks, -Sean

that pic shows the wire, its the exact same as the driver's side in color and connector type. wierd that the 2.5L and 4.0L are different. Maybe its cause the 4.0L is louder and they figured it would need more horn for people to hear it. :D

wow?