UNL1MTD

what is the equasion for figuring out the gear teeth? and you have a 4 cylinder with np207 tcase right? those are different speedo gears...you have to order one by tranny and engine option...they are specific. one for a np207 tcase would be the same The parts truck is a 4 banger with a 231, its got the larger diameter gears, I checked it before I posted. This truck is a 4.0L. Where do people order from? I havent found a place that I can order like that. Dealer maybe? I'm not sure of the equation I just use the charts in the Quadratec and 4wd magazines, they have been dead on perfect twice now.

I just finished up work today on the MJ. I pulled the valve cover and sure enough the gasket wasnt seated right. It was half on/half inside the valve cover on the driver's side. :oops: I decided that I had the whole day and I might as well take out the rockers, lifters, bridges, and just clean it all up in there. I really thought it wasn't that bad but the before/after is striking, so I'm glad I took the time. It was about 3 hours to do it (9-12), it was the only time I wish I had a 4banger too. I did each cylinder one at a time to avoid mixing up lifters/rockers so thats good. Torque wrench and lock tight on the rocker arm bolts. I did have a lifter tick from the 1st or 2nd cylinder, so I kinda figured this would help. I took the valve cover and cleaned the surface, put down some Indian Head Gasket Shalack and put down the cork. I'm not sure the gasket shalack was the right choice, but for whatever reason at the store the brown indian dude on bottle just talked me into buying him. Didn't put enough on the first time and it fell off, Didn't allow it to setup long enough the second time and it fell off, third time was just right and she's all buttoned up. Was definitely light on the wrench. I couldn't get an inch pounder from work. So I used CWs method and I think it worked. Ran her for 25 minutes. No leaks around the valve cover with varying the throttle throughout. :cheers: And no lifter tick. :D However I'm sure I got a rear-main leak :cry: I was under her with a towel and I pinpointed the origin to the rear main. Its a real bummer, cause its leaking pretty good. Like a drop off the flew plate every minute once she is warm. No leaks when cold. I'm not sure how serious that is, but to me its scary. I guess the MJ isn't going to be DDing anymore. Just running to Hardware stores and the dump.

I have a 2wd. I run 31s and since I had a D35 with 4.10s I put that in. So 2wd Mj, with 4.10 gears, and 31" meats = 38 teeth speedo gear, my current tooth count is 30, its way off. I order a speedo gear from 4wd hardware like I always do when I change tire sizes in my TJ. I knew about the long versus short metal shaft the speedo rides on in comparison to MJs/TJs so I was just going to swap them. Well I'm thinking its no dice. Hopefully someone can help. The thing is the 2wd speedo gear is only 1 1/8"s in diameter whereas the NP231 gears are more like 1 3/8"s in diameter. I have 4 laying around and it hit me like a ton of bricks. So I'm curious if anyone has regeared their speedo in a 2wd and how it was done? maybe I am just missing where to look to order them on various websites. -Sean ps- anyone need a 40,38, or 34 count speedo gear? :brows:

I don't like this JT that much. However I do think its cool people are doing these radical custom ideas on brand new vehicles. I spoke with a guy I work with who was lucky enough to be invited to moab to drive around the JKs when they were being promoted for the first time on the trail. He spoke with the Jeep engineers about bigger engines and other concepts. The reason they arent hitting the show room floors nation wide is either not meeting safety requirements or not feasible to mass produce them. According to him the Hemi and all other higher engine options in the JKs won't meet front crash test requirements and thats not something they will compromise on. Also according to him, Jeep doesnt have a plant currently that can handle the extended frame of the gladiator and re-structuring an existing plant or building a new one doesn't meet cost/effectiveness goals for the gladiator. Take it with a grain of salt, but thats what he said the engineers said at moab while they were all driving some brand new JKs over slick rock.

I don't think I will be getting any more chrome... I think it looks nice and anything else might be pushing it. Most of it came on the truck when I bought it. I personally think black steelies look awful so I don't run em. I did for about 4 months on my wrangler and hated it. Also I like the weight savings benefit of running alloys. I got to do an alignment on the MJ tomorrow, its like you got esp or something pete. When I measured after my suspension mods It came out to be 21.75 inchs hub to flare in the rear and 19.5 inches hub to flare in the front.

235s MT style on stock 2wd suspension from '87 235s MT style on stock 4wd leafs, XJ upcountry coils and 3/4"spacer 31" MT style on stock 4wd leafs, XJ upcountry coils and 3/4" spacer I don't rub as is, but I think thats because I have 8" rims with 5.5" BS and not stock 7" rims. Also this really only sees the street and the back yard ... no wheeling. I swapped in 4.10 gears and it drives just about how I want it. With 235s and 4.10s the manche was screaming through the gears until I hit 5th, way too deep.

Thats the truth, if you don't constantly use it, it fades. But comes back quick. I did 5 years in middle/high school, then 4 years and a summer abroad in college. Not too sharp anymore being out of practice for 3 years.

9 years of spanish, not too rusty I guess

I might add that, unless you got the rear off the ground and supported by jackstands there is no easy way to tell if the parking break is actually holding your tires. After adjustment, just try to turn the tires by hand, like really try hard. I found this a lot easier then working on a hill and having to keep the truck in gear during adjustment, then take it out for a test, then repeat everything. It definitely takes a couple tries. If you need to replace anything in the ebrake system, I would go to Napa. Very reasonable prices and the parts fit like oem. If you have a Haynes Manual the procedure for adjusting the ebrake is in Chapter 9 (page 16), Section 13.

thanks for all the replys. I'm going to pick up a new gasket and some Gorilla Glue. I'm going to use the seal the gasket to valve cover method and I'm going to snag an inch/lb wrench from work. Never even thought of the oil cap, always some residue there, might as well get a new one. I've already changed out the vents for the emissions stuff, fixed the oil in the airbox problem. Anyway it really needs to get done. I checked the oil and I'm halfway between add and fill. On sunday she was topped off right above fill, only about 130 miles. Its leaking bad, probably just going to park it for now.

Do these spacers hold grease well? Looks like a really good idea.

May 19th 10am - 4pm Chrysler of Culpepper Dealership Another board which I am a member of is having an event next Saturday in Culpepper, VA. Its a Show and Shine where anybody who wants to can show their jeep off to the crowd and see if they can't win an award. Addittionally there is all kinds of raffles going on, RTI ramp, tons of stuff for kids, some free food, and the dealership usually does something aswell. I'll be taking the MJ and hanging out all day. If anyone is local to VA and has a Saturday to kill, come on out. The website with all kinds of details is below. http://www.nvjajeepshow.com/

This makes sense, but I guess mine is missing a needed socket or connector, because there is no light bulb on mine or anything. Maybe the parts MJ has it, I'll have to look.

funny, the PO of mine did the same thing. I cursed his name when I saw it. The stereo was a 100% hack job. all wires were spun together and covered in tape. He hooked switched and unswitched 12v to the cig light. Didn't hook up the rear speakers either. Pretty awesome.

So I unsuccessfully replaced my valve cover gasket last Tuesday. Unsuccessfully meaning the more I run it the worse the leak gets. I'm thinking I may have taken way too many things for granted and just want to clear them all up before I take another stab at it this Sunday. First off I'm using the cork gasket by FelPro which is 5 bucks from Advanced Auto. I read on here that this is what most people use because of the cost. I have also read that some use the 50 dollar one because it'll last longer. I think I want to stick with the cork one, just because of the cost. What I did. Took off the old valve cover. Scrapped off the old rubberish gasket, looked like gray rtv. Used a can of seafoam and brush to clean the valve cover surface. Looked at rockers, didn't do anything to them. Wiped down the block's mating surface with rag and seafoam. Put the cork gasket on the block, lined it up, tightened it down to 10 ft/lbs. I didn't have a inch lb torque wrench and that was my lowest setting on my ft/lb torque wrench. I went in an alternating pattern around the cover. So anyways, I think I messed up just about every step. How do you line up the cork gasket correctly? Is RTV to be used in conjunction with the cork gasket? Is 10 ft/lbs way too much? Is there a specific pattern to tighten down the valve cover bolts? I'm thinking about doing the oil filter adapter o-ring aswell. Is this just one bolt from the block and it comes off? Replace o-ring, reinstall? Will oil dump everywhere? Thanks, Sean

That's exactly what it does. The ORN/BLK wire is part of the dash illumination circuit. The connector attaches to a bulb socket which attaches to the lighter housing. The bulb illuminates the outer green transparent ring around the lighter socket. Ok but, since its only one wire, where does it ground to? anybody got a hooked up working one that can grab a photo?

I think that wire might just be left as is, not like it really matters. very cool addition, I was thinking that would be a good addition to charge cell phones and what not. This one was free hence doing it. Maybe I'll get around to that aswell.

good suggestion ... with a test light that orange and black wire is hot when the key is on and you turn your lights on then turn the light switch far enough to the left to illuminate the dash. I'm guessing a light bulb plugs into it or something. Out of stupidity i touched it to the cig lighter to see if the bluish rign would light up. Instead I blew a fuse. It blew the 5amp INST LPS fuse. So I got no clue where to clip it or what it does.

My project MJ did not come equipped with a cig lighter, my parts MJ did. Figured this one would be easy enough for the afternoon, I was part right. Taking the cig lighter out of the parts truck I saw an orange/black wire going to a clip connector that wasnt installed. I moved it over to the project truck and didn't install this connector. What does it do? I think it might light up that bluish ring around the cig lighter at night, but I wasn't sure where to connect it so I left it off. The cig lighter is only suppose to be hot when the ignition is keyed, correct? The dash is still in piece thanks to the PO's horrendous stereo install, so this can be a quick fix if I do need to clip it to something. Thanks, Sean

I did the dyna bead approach in my TJ. I really don't think it did anything for me but make me feel like I did something. I have 33" MTZs on Alum rims. So I installed 8oz in each. Later took off my lead weights which made the ride unbearable above 40mph. So I added another 4 oz in each and there was no difference. I got them removed and went back to lead weights, IMHO ... lead weights are a lot better. But maybe I'm the exception. I did succeed in wasting 120 bucks though. :roll: Big advantage to the dyna beads over air soft bbs is that installation can be done throught he valve stem.

Yea with Paragon closing there isnt much choice. I have been to Paragon and the rocks are similar in grip. Its that sandy composite stuff that your tires can glue too. Rausch also has a lot of slate around the area, used to be a coal quarry or something. I've been there three times now and the place is pretty awesome. Definitely tons of rocks too flop/roll on and also lots of trails that are sutiable for stock rigs. They got plenty of places to camp and park trailers. The park has a slightly more laid-back attitude than Paragon as well. I'm a big fan, I'll be going back atleast 3 more times this year.

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I was up at Rausch Creek wheeling my Unlimited last weekend and I got a chance to take a look at their park truck, Spike. I got a couple specs from the park staff while bsing around the fire. It was pretty cool seeing a MJ as a park truck. I believe Paragon had/has one too as a park truck. I also saw a stock MJ pull up to wheel as I was leaving Sunday. 4.0L Pioneer Long Bed 33x12.50 BFG MTs 15" Canyon Wheels (not engouh BS, rubs) YJ D44 (too narrow, adds to the rubbing in the rear) Spring over Rear 5ish inches on the Front Some Pics- And one of my Unlimited doing its thing-

nice jeep. I got the same thing going on. A wrangler I wheel and a 2wd MJ for splitting dd duties. You got some nice tires there. I love my MTZs, they hook up real well. In regards to the top, there isn't a real cheap and easy way to fix it. I've never had to but some say take it to a nautical sail repair place, others say tailors, others say duct tape, and the only perfect way ... just put the top down. congrats.

Added some 31x10.50R15 Bridgestone Dueler MTS wrapped around stock Ravine Jeep wheels 15x8 with 5.5 inch backspacing. No rubbing so far with turning. I do have a sway bar link smacking my coils when I hit holes or bumps on one side and not the other. Current Shot: