UNL1MTD

Been awhile, got some pictures developed (yup developed, still rockn the 35 mm film, so I figured I would add them to my never ending thread. This is a shot of the driver's side of the jeep which I used the decal remover tool on. It looks sweet in comparison to the other side. Might be hard to tell in the pic but it really polished the paint as it removed the decals and the paint underneath is brandnewish leaving this cool faded decal look, definitely a step up from the peeling vinyl. Shot of my new interior lights. Easy project. Pic of my new higher output (100 amp) alternator. This is my fabbed up spare tire mount. My winch mechanism still worked, so I just need something to attach the cable to. I opted for a thin piece of scrap steel. Which I drilled, glass beaded and painted (along with the winch). Then put a shortish eye bolt through it with some leftover shock bushings and washers. Then crimped the cable to a double hook and clipped it on. Works great and has been holding my spare for a solid month. This pic shows off the two hook L brackets which I got around to installing along with the aux horn, which is hanging out in the background. Just recently I painted my rear bumper and addressed all of its rust, which was a lot better than it looked. I think I'm going to paint all my plastic trim aswell to match. This is the junked MJ just before it got on the flat bed. I ended up selling the front axle, so my 4wd swap took a step backwards, but I got 75 bucks for it and it was just getting more rusty. Not much of this one left, it donated a lot of parts. Even cut up the bed.

The first pic is very deceiving. I was like 'aw them some cute fish' then I scrolled down to see the dude holding up two and was like 'dayumn them some big fish.'

I got a limited slip in my LJ, pretty common for 30" tire group and all LJs have them in the rear. I have been overly impressed with it in almost every situation except heavy rock where there is a lot of articulation. My LSD seems to stay locked just about anytime both tires are firmly on the ground. I know I have been accused of having a locked rear before. But keep in mind this is in the rear of mine, which means its got a lot more weight on it then the front would in most circumstances. On road its hardly noticeable, except on ice, it pulls just like a locker. If you do use it make sure you get a tube of that friction modifier otherwise it will make a bunch of noise and the clutches will wear out faster. That being said, its not a locker and if you want one it will not live up to a locked axle. As soon as a tire is lifted or gets very light it will unlock. If it is low miles then the clutches will be in good shape and it might warrant getting put in. Depending on previous use of it it might be in fine shape even at 100k, all depends on the abuse. Mine is still working good at 50k with a lot of wheeling on it. If it were me , I would just buy a carrier and put in the lock right. Carriers are cheap and you already have the lock right.

thanks for the scan, great resource

just snagged a pic

i can get it out i just did not want to over fill it or under fill it and yes next time i will make sure i do that i can alway add oil from the top. the plug I used on my transmission is the furthest forward on the tranny close to the bell housing. I could get just under 2qts of fluid in it using this plug.

I think its pretty smart. Lets assume his TJ has stock D30/35 unlocked with 3.07 gears and with drums in the rear. NP231 without an sye. This combo gets him the regear to 4.10s good up to 33s. Selectable lockers in both diffs. A D44 outback (big improvement over the 35) and A psuedo D44 in the front (an improvement over the 30, not huge, but still better). He aslo gets a fixed yoke style output to the Tcase and 4 to 1 gears. The rock track case is built stronger the the NP231, so thats an improvement too. He gets Disc brakes in the rear. I can't really tell in the pics, but it looks like he got a spare stock steering setup too. Doing all this individually would be a lot more coin. ARBs alone are 800 a pop. And he gets to resell his junk and atleast recoupe 400 -500 bucks. I think its pretty smart way of doing it. Especially if your goal is 33-35" tires. ps- I've never seen a Tera Low for less then 800, you got a good source?

Is the wobble like the steering wheel is ripped out of your hands and the front end feels like its going to be torn from the truck? Or is it the wobble that the steering wheel makes from way out of balanced tires? In all my experiences with wobble (death/regularish) its been out of balance tires setting off another component that either was not tight or the bushing/joint had failed. I've had a loose control arms once and a loose trackbar about 5 times. If the trackbar has any play in the joints or isn't torqued to spec, its going to cause some wobble. Rereading your post, if you just sorta guess at all your suspension link lengths then that sounds like a good place to start, since there is a good chance they aren't right.

I got an ECU from an '89 2.5L sitting in my garage. If it comes down to you needing it, its yours for 15 shipped. I have no clue if this is your problem or not though. Shoot me a pm if you want it.

Never even thought about reusing the old one, I guess it makes sense. All the holes are the same size and shape, just gauges instead of lights behind them. Any of the 4 close to 147 to 150k? 14 bucks sounds like a deal to me.

That looks really good. Is it hard to find a gauge cluster in all black like that? This is on my long list for the mj.

I went with Round Eyes head lights for my TJ. I can honestly say its the most used 100 mod on the jeep aside from tires and suspension. They are good lights, way bright and right at 100 bucks. http://www.roundeyes.com/Products-Jeep_Headlamps.html They make them for XJ/MJ so I figure the square ones would be just as good as the round ones. I'm really kickn myself for just buying the Napa brand Wagner Halogens for my MJ. They aren't worth the 12.50 I paid for them. I'm going to have to wait awhile before I can justify buying these for it, but I'm sure that day will happen.

I just ran an aux horn today. Figured since I had the bumper off putting on the 'L' shaped tow hook bracket reinforcements, I might as well wire up another horn. Install was so easy and now I got more horn. Not quite like more 'cowbell' but it'll get the job done.

if its a BA 10 the right tool is a square key. The correct size is 8mm. I used a piece of 5/16th stock and filled it down until it fit. Then I bent it in a 90 degree angle to make a key tool out of it. Works good. I filled mine using a suction gun.

I'm having problems using the Search, keep getting Debug errors. So I figured I would just ask. I want to replace the bulk of the vacuum hoses under the hood of my MJ. The ones on the evaporation canister are all but disintegrated. I did the CCV system which did a lot of the lines and helped out, but I would like to do the rest. Especailly since its listed as #1 to check for my current MJ problem ("Engine 'lopes' while idling or idles erratically"). So what size vacuum lines are used under the hood? About how many feet should I buy in order to replace the bulk of them. Only mention of size in the Haynes manual (that I can find) is 1/4" inside diameter when using it as a stethoscope. :nuts:

I'm not sure exactly where you are, but I got nothing going on this Sunday and could be up for a drive depending on things.

Looks nice Jeff. How's the driveability with the 4.56s? I bet you can get it up to 65 now with out taching in the 4k range! Let me know when you end up working on the front end. Right now my weekend is open and could maybe lend a hand. -Sean

XJ Mount MJ Mount actually the lower control arm mounts are different between XJs and MJs. MJs got a little bit of beef to them. Pics stolen from 'Project' threads.

sorry, I wasnt in town to answer this on time, but .. they can get pretty huge and if you got a boat load of stuff to sell, typically you can get rid of all of it. Basically its a jeep related flea market.

do you mean by just turning the key and waiting to hear the pump? I normally do that, no real difference. You mentiond CPS before. Got any reasoning behind that or is that just a 'throw it out there' type guess?

got a 100 amp alternator from Napa today and installed it. Went pretty quick, 45 mins total. Had a scare when I first tested the alternator via the same test I used to determine the old one was no good. So start it, disconnect the positive terminal and the truck stalls! Look down, forgot to connect the alternator wires. :oops: :thwak: Plugged it in and now it stays one with the battery disconnected. So I guess that fixes this one for now. The MJ gets DD duty for awhile now that the TJ is at the shop getting looked over, so my fingers will stayed crossed.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... pgrade.htm thats a link to the bible of write ups for this mod. been thinking about it for awhile now myself. It looks like you have an ABS version. 95 and up is the year you want too, according to this article.

My neighbors was the same way in his cherokee. My alternator however isn't really making any noises, just not doing its job. I read that alternators can short out, causing a drain on the system. I checked for shorts in the MJ by putting a test light in line with the negative battery cable and the negative terminal post and it appears the MJ is short free. The light stayed off. Mine definitely takes more than a few seconds. Usually 5. crank crank, think about giving up, let it crank and it goes. Reason I was thinking it was fuel delivery related was because after a cold start, if you try to get going the MJ will just putter for about 10 secs, getting just a tiny bit of fuel. Then something changes and it starts getting the normal amount of fuel and drives fine. I typically just let it warm up and I don't have that problem. Once it has been driven it will not require a long crank at all, just starts up near immediately.

charged the battery all day at work and got it tested at advanced auto. It checked out fine. I cleaned up the terminals and connectors with an official battery terminal cleaner tool then hooked it up. She cranked over no problem. Then I disconnected the positive cable, it near immediately stalled out. Reconnected, started it again, then disconnected the negative, it immediately stalled out. So it looks like I got to get an alternator. :cry: I checked with the parts guys at both napa and advanced. Napa seems to have the better deal, 100amp one for 100 bucks. Looks like thats my project for tomorrow. the real kicker is after I did the comanche testing I did my 3k maintenance on the wrangler. checked the front diff and she came pouring out like metalic water. :eek: bout shait myself. Popped the cover and found a chewed up shim/seal/something :hmm: and all the gear oil was metal flake and had a feeling of water. Not to mention some of the teeth got a new wear pattern. I'm guessing the whatever metal that got chewed up proceeded to break down the fluid. Its impossible that it got contaminated as it was changed 1 month ago to the day and has not been wheeled (I also have outer alloy usa axle seals) ... sorta had a dry may here too. My only guess is I botched my lockrite install, which really surprises me considering this was my second time doing it. So 2 jeeps broken down and bumming a ride to work tomorrow. I'm the complete opposite of happy, with no one to blame but myself. The Mj is an easy fix and will be running tomorrow. Fingers crossed atleast.

I used a long breaker bar and the heads of both the bolts snapped off. Breaker bar was in the neighborhood of 2 feet. This will allow for you to remove the bed from the x member, but creates the problem of a bolt with no head stuck in the bed.