UNL1MTD

Yea I did buy an aux fan last summer, but never got around to wiring it to an aux switch. It does it while sitting at idle or rolling down the highway at 65 mph.

Good idea on the laser thermometer, I can borrow one from work. Before hand with idiot lights, I had no signs of anything going on. Never once did they come on. Last novemember I replaced the pressure bottle and cap, then flushed the coolant. Any chance there is an air pocket lingering around?

You may need a viscous fan clutch, or you may need a radiator. What's happening is the primary fan can't pull enough air through the radiator to cool the engine. It gets to 230 and the auxiliary fan kicks in. That pulls more air, the temperature drops to where it should be ... and the cycle repeats. Although I have an aux fan its not wired in yet. My truck is a super base model. Manual, no ac, hence no aux fan.

I recently swapped in a full gauge cluster. Ever since, after the MJ gets hot and has been running the temp gauge starts to do this pattern where it starts at 210 then goes up very very slowly to 230 ish (the next white line). It nevers hits the red or goes past the 230 line. Then it falls very fast back to 210 and stays there for a minute or two, then repeats. The coolant level is good. Thats about all I know at this point. '87 Mj 4.0L 2wd, Stock cooling system. This can't be normal. Any ideas?

That black xj is for sale on my local board. http://www.novajeepers.com/index.php?na ... ic&t=26886

I love my MTZs on my TJ. I run the 33x12.50 flavor and they have served my well for over 2 years now. They are good on road and great offroad. I bought them at 160 a tire, now it looks like they are up to 195. I think that even at that price I would buy them again. Not that I have too though, I have 20k+ miles on them with lots of tread left, atleast another 20k until they don't pass inspection. Although two sets of tires sounds nice ... its a real pain in the rear end having to switch out tires twice everytime you go wheeling. I did that for about 6 months before I sold the street tires and just DDed my MTs. And x3 on the like new tires, I'm on my fifth set and I have always sold my tires at 1/3 the price of new. There are great deals out there, if you can live with second hand tires.

yea I figured it would be an AX5, but I was hoping that they might have switched it to an AX15 some time in the early 90s. I do need the front 4.10 axle, as I have that as my rear currently and I thought I could get away with one cheap donor.

I think I know the answer, but ... would a 4cy 5 speed work behind a 6 cyl? This is the only description I have of the rig that I'm considering taking the drivetrain out of. 1995 Jeep Cherokee 4-Door, Hatchback 4WD, 5-SPD manual transmission 4-CYL, 2.5 liter my rig is a 1987 Renix 4.0L 6 cyl, I currently have a BA10. Thanks, Sean

OK, chances are you will be turning a wrench. I'm not a fan of this time of year because its when I have to make the call to switch from my bikini top to something else on my TJ. Right now its looks like I might have a wet ride unless I switch it out. I'm not going to be able to help on Sunday. I'll give you a buzz Saturday morning. Of course if the weather is very bad, I'm probably not going to venture out.

you working this Saturday?

Just got off the phone with the dealer and they have another seal that is internal to the Dizzy, which is PN-33004595. I ordered that, hopefully in two weekends I will get a chance to take it all apart again and put it back together.

I bought the set from Jon and don't regret putting down the money for it at all. The cables are mega thick. I know he also sells alternator cables as well. Check page 6 of my build thread. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... c&start=75

Thanks for the link, I'll have to run that exploded view to the dealer to see if they have any gaskets that fit that last diagram. It seems to be a finess job, I almost would rather go to the JY get one and just swap or tear it down to get familiar with the process. I was really expecting there to be a gasket underneath the stator or pulse ring, but I guess not. I suppose the gasket above the drive gear keep the oil down in the engine, but its just not adding up in my head right now.

For a while I have noticed oil in the distributor. I don't think this is normal. Nor do I think the slow leak on that motor mount/side of the engine bay is normal. Good for rust prevent, but not normal. I bought the only gasket the dealer had for the distributor. (PN J3181288) This is for the seal between the distributor and the block. Actually removing the distributor wasn't too bad at all, only took 10 minutes or so with a lot of careful markings. Removed the dizzy. The seal was torn, but this could have happened during removal. This is a view inside. Notice the oil. I was hoping that the seal on the block was co-responsible for the internal sealing of the dizzy as well, but it appears this is not the case. I didn't have any documentation on how to further tear down the dizzy, nor did I have parts, so I stopped there and reassembled with the new block gasket. Does anyone have any other part numbers for internal seals of the distributor or information on why I would have oil there? I appears the oil builds up and leaks out the wiring gromet. This is a good thing for now, well better than the dizzy filling up I suppose.

Figured this is worth an update more for the rolling legar of whats been done more than any usable tech. But anyways. The guage swap thing ended up actually being the guage. I got a line on another cluster and might swap it in eventually, but I'm in no hurry. I ohmed out my sensor and it proved to be reading within the correct ohms for oil pressure. Thats good enough for me for now. I did change out the serp belt as the original was getting chaffed on the back of the belt. Figured if I change it now I will have the old one as a spare in a pinch. I've been bitching about my valve cover still leaking after changing out to a cork gasket. Well I did some dectective work yesterday and I'm no longer convinced this is the case. After 30 minutes of driving there was plently of oil leaking, but none around the cover. I really think its 90% Rear Main and at speed the oil just gets everywhere, including up on the firewall a bit. I did however start investigating my distributor. For a while I have noticed oil in the distributor. I don't think this is normal. Nor do I think the slow leak on that motor mount/side of the engine bay is normal. Good for rust prevent, but not normal. I bought the only gasket the dealer had for the distributor. (PN J3181288) This is for the seal between the distributor and the block. Removed the dizzy. The seal was torn, but this could have happened during removal. This is a view inside. Notice the oil. I was hoping that the seal on the block was co-responsible for the internal sealing of the dizzy as well, but it appears this is not the case. I didn't have any documentation on how to further tear down the dizzy, nor did I have parts, so I stopped there and reassembled with the new block gasket. I did find the tip of the sparking mechanism inside the dizzy. I'm assuming the rotor broke it off on a previous owner and they never fished it out. That was interesting, :roll: . I'm going to start a tech thread on this topic, because I need some info on how to get the oil out of the dizzy. MJ is going to be the daily driver for the next two weeks while the TJ gets new diff internals [ARBS, 4.56s], so I imagine its going to get some more love from me, hopefully.

I got a good one for you. On my LJ I knew I could get into my old garage no problem, had an easy two inches of clearance. One day I was working with the hood up in the driveway and it got hot. So I just backed it in to the garage without a second thought. Definitely tacoed my hood a bit when it hit the top door jam. Spend 130 at a body shop for them to straighten it and then I used touch up paint myself. I literally had to get out a hammer and hit the jeep after I did that, only way I could make the pain go away, which I realize makes no sense, but the hood was f-ed anyway.

Jeff, PM me some location/directions/times. Not really sure of my schedule this weekend, but currently I'm doing nothing. Not sure if my MJ could make the trip or not, might have to drive the other jeep. -Sean

nice, I finished it up this morning as well. My solution to 4 balls was different then every other I saw. Didnt save it though. I made three 'fans' on the bottom which juggleds the balls and then a ramp to guide them into the goal. I really enjoyed this game, even looking at others' solutions is entertaining.

i got past that one and stuck on four balls. I got 3/4 in, so fun. For big ball go under, not over.

Which areas in Va will you be at during your vacation? Main places for wheeling are in George Washington National Forest. One trail a bit north called Peter's Mill near Woodstock, which requires a 5 dollar permit. Then there a bunch near Harrisonburg that are a bit more worthy of the name trail, but just barely. These are all open access, located off 33 near the WV border. In MD there is Greenridge Forest between Hancock and Cumberland, which has a big loop for OHV. There is a daily use fee there. All of these trails are stocker friendly, but I would discourage you from venturing anywhere solo.

i'll throw another vote in for the MTZs. I have been running them for 2 plus years with 30k on them and they easily have another 15-20k on them to go. Hook up great offroad and do well on the street.

you got lucky with the top end of your engine, mine had so much build up it was disgusting. I'm about ready to do my valve cover again though and bought one of those high end gaskets as well. Thanks for the tip with the coolant hose. Out of curiosity, what did you use to clean the inside of the cover?

no

well, I guess I am just going to button up the install and live with it for now. I feel good knowing that the sender is operating and that I'm getting respectable readings from it. Hopefully the gauge comes to life all of a sudden, but if not I'll swap it out in the future.

Is there a way to 'fix' the gauge?