UNL1MTD

When we did this we were only allowed to use printer paper and scotch tape to make the vehicles the eggs traveled in. Typically the drops went from 5ft to 10ft to 15ft etc. feet to get a good judging. We always made some type of cone which absorbs the impact and a shredded nest to hold the egg. For us it was all about making sure the cone hit first and deformed, rather than it landing on its side at all. What is the distance of your drop?

AFAIK in VA the parking brake test was just put the tranny in D (or 1st gear) and rev the engine a bit. If it's holding downhill, you should be okay, no? Or have they changed the ebrake test? Well if thats the test, then it will pass. But I would like to fix it just for general safety and function.

I've gone through the Haynes Manual steps to adjust the parking brake a couple times and I'm left with the condition of the parking brake not working when the rear is downhill. When the front is downhill it holds exceptionally well. When the tires are off the ground and the parking brake is applied I can rotate the tires in reverse by hand by adding a fair amount of force, thats how loose it is. When I got the truck in 2007 I replaces all ebrake components (pedel springs, front cable, rear cables, all brake hardware, and brake cylinders) I'm a bit stumpted on what to try do to fix this issue and I've got state inspection coming up next month. Any ideas?

Got my zippered hoddie today. Glad I ordered a XL, because it seems to be cut a little small. Either that or I need to layoff the chips and beer. Thanks for putting this together!

Added a fancy dancy underhood light to the MJ. I got this from the Brandywine Junkyard for 15 bucks. I robbed the hardware as well, but ended up not using any of it. I wirewheeled the mount and shot it with paint first. My factory wire connecting the light to the engine harness was hard to find, it was tucked underneath the passenger motor mount. The blade connector was heavily corroded and I had to clean it up with a stiff brush and some baking soda solution. Plugged it in to test and bonus, bulb was still good. The light mounts to the hood via Nutsertz, I happened to have some extra ones from my Rocker Panel install on my TJ, so I was able to use them here. The size of my nutsertz were a bit larger than the factory's, so I had to drill out the holes to 17/32nds using a 1/2" drill bit, then a dremel. Then collapsed them and bolted it up. I did spray some electrical ox guard type stuff on the grounding points (hood mounts) to make sure I had a good ground. Let there be light!

The lights only blink in phase when the head lights are turned off. If the marker lights are on or the head lights are on they blink out of phase. If you view the video, then select the next video you can see what I'm talking about.

I took advantage of the warmth and did some painting. I gave some life back to the 22 yr old plastic grill and headlight buckets on the comanche. Even did some 600 grit sanding to help adhesion of the Krylon Fusion. before: after: Also did the signal marker conversion to turn signal marker while I had the grill off. Super easy electrical mod, which cost nothing and adds a touch of safety. I followed MadXjs write up. I should have added 3 inches of wire to the driver's side signal marker ground wire, becaue I literally just had enough to screw it into the housing. The pass side had a lot of wiggle room though. I also torqued down the rear valve cover bolts a bit more, I developed another leak at the vc, even with this new snazzy gasket, hopefully this helps out. I also found one drop of coolant on the serp belt under the Tstat housing. I couldn't trace down its origin, but that sucks.

I had fun with this back in Highschool. I actually spent a semester tinkering around with different models and ended up with a high speed, low distance version that I converted into a glider project. That was a lot of fun. Its a lot of trial and error. One of the biggest improvements I made was getting traction for the wheels I was making, of which I used rubber bands around the thick foam board wheels.

Will bypassing the valve lead to a hotter cab during the summer months even with the heat off? Stupid question, but without AC it concerns me.

tires and rims look great, any rub at all with the new arms on it?

It did have the black bubble, glad I left it then if its just wireless entry. I was hoping for clock/temp display, but didn't want to just buy it without knowing.

I was up at the Brandywine junkyard (MD) and out of 25 or so Xjs one was a trimmed out pioneer and in it was a small overhead console/display. It was maybe 5" long and 3" wide and 2" deep. It had red, black, light green, and a brown wire running to it. It was secured by a cutout in the headliner and the visor clips. Sorry about not grabbing a pic, but I didn't bring a camera with me. I tried to chase down the wiring to figure out what it was, but I lost the wires behind the dash and got distracted elsewhere. Anybody have a clue what this is and where the wires might go?

Just picked one of these up at the junkyard (factory not hobbs light). How does it mount to the hood? I'm assuming nutserts? My hood is a blank canvas and doesn't have any threaded holes or nutserts.

i'm actually in Dahlgren (live/work). I think that I might try out a salvage yard up in waldorf before I make the trip down.

Thanks for the link, but nuts thats 3 hrs each way so says google. I was hoping VA beach really meant Norfolk area, but you really mean VA beach. :ack: I got a three day weekend, so I really have no excuse to not do pilgrimage on Monday if they are open.

Can you post the yard's name/address? I need seats and a full console. Might make a trip out of it on Saturday. Only a two hour drive each way, to go to a junk yard. :nuts:

Email sent with order information. Thanks for putting this together. -Sean

I hope your recovery goes smooth. Best wishes throughout the process.

very cool, I thought you were going to say that you are buying the neighbor's house!

No seats yet. I'm looking for seats that are based off a black interior, so either full black, or black base with the white checker pattern like you have. I'm going to wide water auto parts in Stafford on Saturday if the weather is good and hopefully I will get lucky and find a set. If I find a nice set of 2 door seats in good condition I might just pull them regardless of color and buy some covers for them, but thats not an ideal option.

makes sense with the seatbelts, thanks for the info

I have MJ bucket seat sliders. So you are saying that only MJ buckets will bolt onto the MJ Bucket seat sliders? And any year XJ seat will have to stay attached to its XJ slider and remounted as described above? Thats a bummer, I would have hoped the xj seats would be interchangeable to the MJ Bucket Seat sliders. Is the difference just there length making it easier to buckle in? I imagine that my bench ones would work just be a PIA, is that wrong to assume?

I picked up a set of MJ bucket seat sliders from mjeff87 over the Holidays and now I'm looking for some seats to put on them. I know that the ideal candidates for the swap are 2 door xj front seats because they fold forward. Will any year 2 door xj seats bolt up to the Mj sliders? Also if no 2 door xjs are in the yard would 4 door buckets be good enough, with just the added headache of hard to reach behind the seat cargo area? Will a center console from a auto work for my MJ with a manual? Are there any differences to center consoles over the years that I should be looking out for? Thanks, Sean

I get my diserbility check and POW! Down to Pants-n-That! Where yingz get more!

So when I filled/fired her up I found I had a leak at the tstat housing. The haynes manual had me put RTV on both sides of the gasket which probably wasnt a good idea. The mopar gasket doesnt need it. Anyways I redid the job this morning and I had some old gasket still stuck to the block. Just used RTV this time and after 10 miles of driving it appears my temp needle really isn't floating any more. Just a 5 degree or less variance while cruzing. I'm glad I trusted the gauge and did something about it. I might spend some time soon wiring up the aux fan to see what that does. The replacement ground cable has made a small change in starting. Just seems a bit quicker, could be my imagination though. The next big project will be doing the RMS.