UNL1MTD

After lots of effort I'm finally at the point to remove the old rear main seal (RMS) from the MJ. I got the bearing cap off and was able to get the lower portion out by yanking with some pliers. The top portion, I was hoping would just slide right out, not so much. I was using a punch and gently hammering on it with little to no results. Will it eventually pop loose after more hammering? There is very little room for error and with tried arms, I threw in the towel after only a dozen wacks. Also I can't seem to figure out how to remove the Trans inspection cover. 4.0L BA/10 combo. I have removed the starter, the three lower bolts, two trans to engine bolts, and two more 1/2" screws/bolts which were up a bit higher. It honestly feels like its just sandwiched in between the engine and trans and won't budge, but maybe I'm missing something. Any ideas? At the bottom there is play and I can get a finger behind it. I don't have to drop the trans to get it off do I? I got a new oil pump and pickup tube/screen. Is there any special instuctions for assembly? Like a glue/sealent or something? I know the oil pump has a gasket for its mounting, I'm more curious about putting the pick up tube on the pump. Thanks -Sean

couple bags of mulch

Is there anything tricky in terms of installing the pickup tub onto the new oil pump? I saw some places recommend a specific tool and others refer to a specific sealant.

I managed to get the pan off today. I spent some time getting the front of the pan free using a putty knife, screw driver, and chisel. Then once I got about 3" back on the driver's side I was able to get enough leverage with a screw driver while slamming it with a dead blow and it finally fell off. It felt like christmas. The pan isn't too mangled from the prying, but I think I will replace it since the inside is just caked with oil deposits. Thanks for the ideas, tips, and tricks. I really think letting the gasket remover work a bit made a big difference.

We have a very similar thing in our house with a built in dresser, only issue we have with it, is that it limits your furniture arrangements sometimes. Otherwise its a pretty neat way to use some extra deadspace.

I tried the whole putty knife tapping in thing, but I must be uncoordinated because I just can't get any leverage to swing a hammer in there but at one or two spots. I just sprayed the seal with some gasket remover from NAPA. I got almost immediate results with the front passenger side breaking free. I liberally reapplyed and will check again tomorrow.

great suggestion, I'll give that a whirl tomorrow.

I went out and got a mechanical gauge last night and hooked it up this morning. The pressure seems to be normal. It starts off around 55, then drops to 20, then as you get on the throttle it will do as high as 50 (or atleast that is as high as I reved it). So I'm pretty sure the oil pump and oil pressure are fine. Is it really worth swapping the oil pump out after doing this test with the mechanical gauge?

Any body got some tips on removing a very stubborn stuck in place 23 year old oil pan? This is on a 87 MJ and I'm trying to do the RMS (rear main seal). I removed all the bolts and studs holding it on. Then I proceeded to be frustrated for about 2 hours. I tried a rubber mallet, dead blow, regular hammer light tapping, and regular hammer pounding on a block of wood. Not so much of a budge out of the thing. I even tried to hang myself from it, no luck. Then I used a drywall putty knife spatula to pry down the pan, no luck (I felt a bit timid and didn't give it more than a couple attempts, didn't want to f-up the matting surfaces. I'm out of ideas and could use some fresh ones. Thanks

I'm going to be doing the RMS on the MJ and I'm thinking that it would be prudent to change out the 180k oil pump while its all apart. I'm trying to figure out if the High Volume oil pump is 'safe' to put in. I guess what I'm wondering is if the stock oil pump has kept up for all these miles is there even a reason to 'upgrade.' Anyways these are the two I'm choosing between. The high volume really does seem like a deal coming with a new screen and tube and at only 50 cents more. I feel like this is a no-brainer, but for some reason I am hesitant. Any chance the high volume pump will cause any other problems on the Renix motor? Stock http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 6998008___ High Volume http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 7002325___ All that said, I swapped in a full gauge cluster awhile ago and I've never had a reading from the oil pressure gauge. I did swap the sender out for the appropriate one, so I really feel like its the gauge and not the pump. The gauge just reads 2-5 psi during the entire time the vehicle is operating and the jeep does just fine, thats why I feel its just the gauge or possibly the brand new sender. Thanks, Sean

It hardly seems worth complaining about, but I've had a reoccurring Staph infection (not MRSA, its a weak strand, that my body just can't deal with) for the past 2 years. 15 sites total in that time fram, Three sites have been major, which have required hospitalization and surgery. I just got one on my chin that looked like I had a golf ball in my lower lip. Docs say I'll be likely to keep getting them for the rest of my life.

This was my MJ after that last batch of snow, got about 8-10" here in Dahlgren. It just started again tonight. Crazy.

It must have been just a little too dark last night when I was looking at the Trans fuse. I have a 7.5 in there, I just missed the ".", so I replaced it with a 10 amp and bingo, the reverse lights came on. So chalk this up to another Trans fuse gone bad. Thanks for the help. KISS trouble shooting works again! -Sean

Good idea. Do we know which pins on it are the power for the reverse lights? If I knew that, atleast I could figure out if power was getting that far.

I have a 87 Jeep Comanche with a 4.0L 5spd BA10 2wd. There is no trailer wiring hooked up to the truck. With that out of the way the story can begin. I jumped in the truck last night and noticed is was quite dark while backing up, getting home with the wife as my watcher it was confirmed my reverse lights are not functioning. So I checked the easy stuff. Both bulbs are good, but I replaced them anyway. The dome, Blinker B/U, Hazard, Stop Lamps, and Trans fuses all tested good, but I replaced them anyway. Except for the trans fuse, which tested good, I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on it and reinstalled, its a 75 Amp fuse and I didn't have a spare. Is it suppose to be that high? Then with the help of some threads on here I tested the reverse switch on the driver's side of the BA10, it tested good. So thats about as far as I got through trouble shooting and feel that I'm sorta out of ideas. All other lights function, turn signals, stop lamps, running lamps, hazards, dome, and instrument lamps. Ideas? Thanks -Sean

I've been looking on and off for about a year for a set of bucket seats for my MJ. I currently have a black interior, which initially made me really picky. But I've loosened my search criteria a little, but still striking out. Ideally I would find a set of 2 door Black buckets non power and non leather, the ones with the black and white checkers sorta. But I would also take 4 dr black buckets or 2dr gray buckets in great shape. I already have MJ sliders, so I don't need any of that from the xj/mj. I'd be able to pick up the seats anywhere 2 hrs from Dahlgren, VA. Possibly further. Please pm me if you have/find anything. Obviously, I would be willing to pay a fair price for the seats, let me know what you have in mind. Thanks -Sean

well, I opted to get 2 of each 15, 20, and 25 amp fuses. And as luck would have it it runs just fine with the 15 amp fuse. So I'll be keeping that. I do have the weaker if not the weakest factory fan though, just the 6 blade fan. It does move a good bit of air, but boy is that thing loud. I definitely won't forget if I left it on. I bought it used, so I'm wondering if thats just how they are or if there is a bearing on its way out.

good to know, I will get some 20 amp fuses for the load side of the relay and give it another shot. Thanks for the fast response :thumbsup:

I finally wired up my aux fan on a manual swith (been sitting around for about a year). My 87 4.0 manual without AC did not have one from the factory, so this was a little extra insurance with the radiator being as old as it is. I used a typical wiring scheme; I put a switch in the dash that gets power from the battery, which powers a relay, which powers the fan. My question is, what amp fuse is appropriate for the fan? I figured that a 10amp would be a safe bet, but it popped it easy as soon as the switch flipped. I didnt have anything else on hand to test with, so I figured I would ask before buying some more fuses tomorrow. Thanks, Sean

FWIW, On my TJ the frame side is a fancy pants long bolt with zerk and I had that one snap. Basically I had it adjusted too short and it was hitting my pumpkin while wheeling and that added stress, which was my fault, caused it to break. I called JKS told them how big of a bone head I was and they sent me a new one free of charge. I personally am I huge fan of their products and customer support.

Sean McCready 87 4.0L 2wd MJ 05 LJ on 35's Locked Dahlgren, VA

Do you have the proper torque on the Wheel Bearing Spindle nut? I know when I changed my front brakes, rotors, bearing, pads, I initially had just a touch too much torque on the spindle nuts and the rotor was hard to turn. That was independent of the caliper tough. Just something else to check. Good luck.

Get some MTOs from Sheetz at 1 am after drinking some Yuengling or Key Light. :clapping:

I bought some Gorilla brand lug nuts off of ebay 2 months ago for under 30 shipped. I 100% agree with making sure they are a 1 piece design. The factory tin covers are junk and just lead to hassels later on.

I think if you are allowed to use balloon (which might violate the parachute rule) then it will not hit as fast as 35 mph. If you have ever dropped a balloon, you know that it falls different than other objects. No reason it shouldn't survive the fall, or at least so I would think. The real question is how many balloon would you need to offset the weight of the egg? I think that might be getting close to violating the .5 x .5 meter restriction.