UNL1MTD

http://www.800-923-jeep.com/techCorner/axle_id.cfm

Ohmed out the junkyard sensor from Jt. I tried to ohm out the new one, but I was doing so incorrectly. Instead of ohming to the block I was trying to do it passthrough. :headpop: In the process of trying to figure things out I switched back to the junkyard one. Once I reread Eagle's post I ohmed out the junkyard one in the correct manner. Results: Keyed on - 0-1 Ohm Idle at 500- 700 RPM - 23-26 Ohms 1500 RPM - 42 Ohms 2000 RPM - 47 Ohms 2500 RRM - 50 Ohms Hooked the gauge back up and had same results as before. Never greater than 10 psi, some times less, some times more. I did notice a marginal amount of movement when I got the RPm climbing, but never more than 5 psi difference. Its definitely putting out lower Ohm readings than Jt's by 15 at idle and 8-12 at 2000 rpm, but I would expect to see some movement at the gauge. Is it possible the gauge or the wire is bad for the sender? Anybody else with some data?

Thanks for the replies, this will help me not burn down the Mj. My Mj is a manual sans AC, so it didn't come with the aux electric fan. I'm adding on that I can flip on with manual control. I will be using a relay.

I'm looking to use an extra fog light switch I have to power an aux fan. The idea is to keep the switches looking factory so that the interior goes together. Does anyone know the correct pin out is for the switch?

right I got two that are tin cans, the rubber cigar one was 10 bucks more. I'll ohm both out tomorrow. Not liking the fact that it makes noise when shaken.

Thanks for the help so far, all clean right now so I won't have a chance to test until tomorrow after work. The sender is definitely for gauges, pn PS133 from autozone. It had some thread sealant on it, redish color, but I did not use teflon tape. Any comments to the noise it makes/loose internal parts?

If you aren't following along on my project page, I'm doing a gauge swap and having a problem with geting a reading on my oil pressure. I had the junk yard sender installed initially and got no movement on the gauge. I tested the gauge and when ungrounded it was far right and when grounded it was far left. Signs pointed to the sender being bad. I bought a new sender from auto zone and installed it today. Well the needle moves ever so slightly when I crank the engine, but thats it. Perhaps some movement when going down the highway at 65, but reading no higher than 10. I think I may have another bad sender. The sender I received sounded busted. When I shoke it, it made a sound, like there was something loose/moving parts on the inside. The junkyard sender seemed solid, no sounds. So my question is, should the sender make a sound when shaken? Is it possible for the Mj to have this bad of an oil pressure and still run halfway decent? I know I have some oil leaks, which are on the list, but I can't imagine to have <10 psi on the gauge and operate. TIA -Sean

Looks like the gauge is fine. When ungrounded it went far to the passenger side (right), when grounded to the battery it went far driver (left). This gives me a warm fuzzy that the gauge is fine. I will be picking up a new sender this afternoon from vatozone, hopefully.

just a thought, but could the pressure just be that bad? I know I have two oil leaks if not three (valve cover, distributor, rear main). I'm going to try and get some movement out of the gauge tomorrow by disconnecting the wire and going straight to the battery with it. According to a bunch of threads with it disconnected it should be at one side of the guage and when connected to the battery it should go to the other. This will atleast show the gauge is good. For reference the correct part number for the oil pressure sender is S768 or PS133.

do you mean right at the sender's spade? or somewhere else closer to the cluster? I went to the parts store to get a new one and the only had the dummy gauge one in stock. Also had a hard time finding a sender for the gauges, part looks odd in the comp so I didnt order it. But no worries, I'll pick one up around here somewhere.

I have a 4.0 and the cluster came from a 4.0 so I'm good there. Maybe it just sounds loud, just got a glass pack and a turn down for exhaust. What is the normal MJ idle? edit- listening to it again and again it does seem higher than shown on the tach. Not sure, I'll take it for a spin around the block tomorrow and see if it seems out of the ordinary. I might also try redoing the main connector for the gauges, just didn't get a warm and fuzzy of it snapping into place.

also some time in May I did the front breaks. When I got the truck I didnt touch the front breaks because the pads looked normal. But I figured since it had been a year I might as well do it all up with new parts. I doubt I am switching to a 4wd axle anytime soon, so might as well be safe. Did everything, rotors, bearings, seals, pads ... just not the calipers. I have break lines from my Tj which I took off after I lifted it. I'm thinking they might find a home on the Mj since its lines look to be in bad shape. I'm assuming they will bolt right up, anyone know for sure?

Finally got some time to work on the MJ, but found my self upgrading rather than fixing needed things. :roll: I'm really going to have to just break down and redo the valve cover again. But anyways, did get a full gauge cluster almost swapped in. This is the old cluster. This is the new cluster. I was a little concerned with the corrosion on the back of the new to me cluster. This is present all over the cluster, I assume it was in a moist environment. First order of business was to reattach the information pod to the cluster. It snapped off during shipping. I jb welded it back together and let it sit over night. Next was the removal of the cluster. This was pretty much easy cheese. Didn't have a problem anywhere. Then I swapped the information pod overlay from my MJ to the new pod since there was a slight difference and mine was a lot cleaner. Next I switched the gray overlay out for my black one and cleaned it up. Then reinstalled. The speedo and side pod connectors went on fine, but the main was definitely being grumpy. I think I got it snugged in. Keyed on the MJ and went through the blinkers, both the high beam and right blinker lights were out, so I swapped those blubs from my old cluster and was good to go. Or so I hoped. Next I switched out the coolant sensor and about crapped my pants when coolant came flowing out like a geyser. Definitely more than a couple shop rags were ready to handle. Then I did the oil pressure sensor. Both sensors were from the donor, which was done in an effort to save some cash. Had to remove a spark plug wire to wrench on the oil sensor and when I fired it up the first time it ran like crap. :thwak: Yup I forgot to put it back on. Did that and let the engine warm up. Immediate results were a working fuel gauge (assuming since I had a full tank), coolant gauge (read a steady 210), volt gauge (just under 14 volts), and tach. It didn't get driven so I don't know if the speedo works. The oil pressure gauge did not move the entire time. My guess is the sender isnt working right, but I'm not sure. Here is a vid. Any other ideas for the oil pressure gauge? I also got an aux fan to put in. I bolted it in place, but otherwise haven't done anything. I am going to run it to a switch on the dash (with a relay), rather than try to hook it up and it come on automatically.

FWIW the stock control arms are probably limiting the droop. The top of the control arms come into contact with the mounts. Some times its worth it to unbolt the arms to let the axle droop more, othertimes you can just use the spring compressors. If it wasnt the control arms then it was the trackbar. Which usually causes the pass side to droop less then the driver, one bolt at the axle can free it.

i used dyna beads in my MTZs for about 3 months, In my opinion they didnt do anything at all. I was running 10 oz in each tire. I first got them lead balanced, sorta didnt like the balance. Added 8 oz dyna beads with the lead wieghts, I thought it got better. Added 2 more oz dyna beads to each tire, no change. Took off lead weight, balance was great until 45 mph. After 45 it was so fing bad I just drove to the tire shop. Got the beads out, lead weights on and was never happier. Wasted 120 bucks.

in between 7 and 8 I would add 7a. Remove lower bump stop cup. Either twist off the entire cup, using a pipe wrench. or if you have a later model, remove rubber bumpstop and unbolt the cup. Without doing this I find it near impossible to put the spacer on.

I had an ~86 Chevy Celebrity, non wagon. It was my first car, that thing took some abuse. It was the first car for both my older brothers too. I think combined from the three of us it had 5 minor accidents and killed 3 deer, net result was no real damage to the car. It still holds a special place in my heart. That car did eat motor mounts and fuel pumps though, eventually got to be too much and it was donated after 200+k was put on it.

That is the FSM recommended way to do it for my LJ '05. However it is not effective if the engine is hot/the vehicle has been driven for the last half hour. Basically there is enough gas vapors in the return line to keep the motor going at a terrible idle. Its ugly. So if you do that, just make sure the vehicle is cold.

went to best buy and target today to see what they had and the only thing available was a huge piece of plastic with a wiring kit, retailing at about 20 bones. Years listed was 97-01 Cherokees, so I doubt it would look right. Probably going to go hornbrod's route. Anyone have one laying around?

I have an aftermarket cd player, that was never installed right by the PO. Basically the entire radio mounts to the plastic bezel, which works, but is annoying when the bezel comes off for something because the radio comes with it. Anyways, what is the correct way of doing this? I vaguely remember seeing a radio tray, but can't honestly recall at this point. I'm about ready to take apart my dash yet again and figured that I would nip this one in the butt while I had it apart. Thanks, Sean

x2 I've used it on 6 ujoints so far without issue. I've bought a lot from harbor freight recently and haven't been that disspointed overall. I had a spring loaded center punch fail, after some semi-heavy use. My main gripe is that when ordering online if they are out of stock you don't know it, just doesnt appear on the receit, which is annoying.

nope not jeff, I met the guy while I was trail guiding there. His rig is set up very nice with ox lockers and regeared to 4.56s I believe.

most companies don't stock items, but the big guys do, check Quadratec and 4wd. I know last july when I broke a shaft Q-tec was the only company out of 8 I tried that stocked them. Other companies were giving me a 4-6 week lead time. Then I got them to price match drivetrainoutlet at 460 for the set, so I still got the great deal, plus free shipping. It was an awesome deal, got to me in 2 days too.

Still running strong too.

you could have air in the lines, but maybe you just have two bad wheel cylinders? I know both of mine were shot when I got my MJ.