JeepcoMJ

so far as caliper brackets go, I would modify the brackets as necessary. people do it with ZJ disc backing plates/caliper brackets all the time, with no ill effects. -Pat

http://sfbay.craigs-lisp.com/eby/cto/2206129190.ashx thanks Kramp and Adler! god darn craigslisp.com hahaha.

I'd probably have you covered. I believe that I have the lock cylinders for the doors, ignition, and glove box.

actually classified as a DJ, not a CJ. diesel powered. isuzu, IIRC. edit: I mis-read some of my jeep literature lol. oops.

those are worth it. for so little money, why spend the time screwing around.

it's the same as it's ever been for me...

TSC tractor supply company. or farm and fleet/fleet farm, or most hardware stores.

The differences do matter to the lock/un-lock mechanism. not particularly. the differential inside prevents internal binding.

make a set of these. easy enough. get the pins from TSC

if all you have is 2.5" pucks your sort of SOL. buy a used set of their 4.5" ones, shorten the bar, and redrill the hole.

I've used a tow dolly without brakes on a built MJ for quite awhile...never again. now, I have brakes to install on the dolly...just in time to trade it towards a clean fsj wagoneer that will become my tow rig. I'd upgrade to a different tow rig. my dolly plus a cherokee caused me to rear end someone in slightly slick road driving conditions...skidded 20 feet.

the only real thing I can suggest is to drain it, inspect the plug and fluid for metal shavings. How many miles are on it? I'd say the best bet is that the nylon bushings on the shift fork inside are gone. if they're gone, there's 1/4" of play in the shift collar, which can screw with what position/gear it is in...while not affecting how the shift position sensor reads what position the handle is in. -Pat

mine gave me around 2.5" lift in the rear...

....or spend $30 on a set of rough country disconnects and stop wasting your time.

I would also have to be looking at march. bro's got some medical things coming up, so I'm going to plan on hanging out with him for awhile.

this also means that the lower locations are specific to lwb and swb, though they use the same parts. lwb shocks are in front of the axle, swb are behind the axle...they use the same parts to accomplish this, but flipped side to side.

it's up to you, Brent. I'd like to go...but I need the money.

and adding D rings to that bumper will require TONS of reinforcement. every inch of that bumper is sheet metal. even the hitch area is sheet metal...just several folded layers. and the mounts will have to be reinforced. because they are 1/8"...not strong enough for recovery. but it is a very nice score!

Well I got asked to work sunday at double time for 11 hours so I will not make this one. We have to get two trucks dressed up and move everything on the lot so the snow can be removed [list=]

huh. they treat me like the did my brother when he had a porsche 944 with nonturbo. second he put a turbo light on the back (with no turbo), he got pulled over 3 times a week. second I put bigger tires on my jeeps...i can't keep the cops away.

If I put a 94 column in my 89 do I have to do anything with the ignition switch? or is it just bolt in? literally bolt-in. the ignition switch is actually not the same part as the ignition "tumbler (or key cylinder). it's located on the top of the column, but down by the firewall. there was a difference between tilt and non-tilt switches, but so long as you use the proper switch for the column, it will work. the only reason that I mention that difference is that when swapping from non-tilt to tilt, you must rotate the two ignition switch connectors 180 degrees in order to plug them back in (rotate them as a pair, since they overlap each other when plugged in...) -Pat

it didn't happen so it doesn't matter. you don't own a time machine do you? if so, let me borrow it to go back and fix some past personal screw-ups prior to you repairing the downfall of AMC.

this gives us 4 hours to pick through. I'll be there at 11am. Rob, styp by your place on the way down? you want to ride with?

wear the key lock out...then you can do that. otherwise, get a quick-clip key ring so you can pop the knife off. or a spare key. I actually had a beater truck that I snapped the key off in on purpose so that no one would know it was in the truck, and I couldn't lose the key.

Are you meaning so that you can remove the key from the ignition with it still running? If so, how do you do it? I could do that on my TJ, thought the key was worn, probably was. no. it removes the cable connected to the shifter handle in the auto, which does not require the vehicle to be in park in order to remove the key. I don't do that on an auto column that's actually in an automatic...not very safe. but I do that mod when I put an auto/tilt non-column shift steering column in a 5 speed, because then I don't have that annoying little button that I have to flip in order to remove the key.