JeepcoMJ

Do I want to know how you found that? another jeeper facebook linked it.

http://www.collegehumor.com/video:1945357 :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: I'd buy one!

the bears represent chicago. chicago is essentially a semi-functional congregation of some of the most ignorant people on earth, and is full of people who fit their race's stereotype... based off of that, I have decided that the bears don't deserve to win. much like the racial types down there that registered my grandfather (passed on for 9 years) to vote, who don't deserve the help they're given. yes, I got more in depth than I needed to. basically, the hatred for chicago is much, much deeper than just a game. da bears still suck.

Illinois DNR has reported a slueth of bears in the Chicago area, causing a real ruckus, and has dispatched the Green Bay Packers to terminate the problem after all the success they have had with the bird issue. Its Bear hunting season next sunday!

I hope you're plating the hell out of the frame....that is too heavy for an mj. aside from that, the square plates on the sides are for PTO drive boxes. you should consider adding one, for utility purposes (pto winch, maybe a dump box...)

old farm house, $#!&ty windows. everything is plastic'd up, too. I'm in the lower of the house, and pay for the upper's heat as well (my rent is also a fair amount cheaper than theirs...by around $350, and I have the pole barn as well...) and, by me, we haven't got too great of a wind break, and it's been in the negatives pretty much every night this month. and I take a half hour shower daily...lol. but, it's all taken care of. both the furnace and the water heater have a self-igniter on them, too. but yes, it's expensive. that said, my rent (combine what I pay and what my room mate pays) is less than $1050, including heat, cable, internet, and rent. not all that bad to be honest.

electric ignite on the furnace, gas on the water heater...oh well, I'll have to ignite that and get it going.

no problem. I figured it all out when I did the '95 update and didn't want the '95 column. ended up going with that column when I didn't feel like splicing anything...but it all seemed like it would work. wish I'd kept my charts for what goes to what...

so, I put $400 into the lp tank for the house about 5 or 6 weeks ago, and hadn't thought about it until today when I left for work. after work, I had to drive 45 minutes to pick up a friend, drive him to the location of his new-to-him '98 xj (welcoming him to the jeeping community lol), have him follow me home so that I can fix a few things on it before he drives it, bring him back to his house, and come back home. get home at 10:30, and step inside to a nice cold 52 degrees. sure as $#!&, the day I think I should check it is the day that it's below empty.... called lp company and left a message. it'll be filled tomorrow...but do I need them to start me back up, or will the furnace take care of it itself? it's less than a year old with a digital control. I'm betting either I have to purge the lines and light the pilot, or they do...but I don't know. I don't know anything at all about furnaces, and never wanted to...guess it's time... -Pat

the '95 to '96 column can be swapped into an earlier xj or mj fairly easily...it will bolt into the upper brackets, and you only need to re-drill 1 hole on the bottom at the firewall in order to mount it. if you have the pigtails going to the '95-96 column, you can splice that into the older dash wiring as well. but you DO NOT need an air bag control module for a '95 or '96 column, as there are none for it. it is a pendulum style air bag...this means that there is a small weight inside of it near a glass vial, and under a certain amount of momentum, the weight breaks the vial, causing the air bag to explode. that is the only viable option for you...a '97+ column wouldn't come close to mounting to anything older than '97, and even if it did...you would not be able to splice the air bag control module in, as it recieves and sends some signals to the ECU as well (automatic shut down, etc.). I'd look for a '95 or '96 xj if you want to stay with jeeps more common with a cheaper price tag and more readily available.. but, unless you're willing to pay for most of her gas, you're probably better off buying her a small newer car like an '00 ford focus (great little cars!) for under 2 grand and calling it a day.

fiat is the majority share holder. chrysler still has partial ownership.

i've been sky diving 4 times, hang gliding twice. I'd love to go base jumping...it's one thing that I've gotta do before I die. that said, I won't go bungee jumping. having my feet yanked on at even 1/4 of terminal velocity scares the $#!& out of me.

if it were a WJ or commander body style pickup, great. but if it even looks anywhere similar to the new grand cherokee.....i'm gonna @#$%ing kill someone at chrysler. let me emphasize PHUCKING KILL THEM. jeep is better off dead.

i've done much worse and will continue to do so. unfortunately, his is a '92 as well...

yeah. that thread deserved that trolling, though.

opened for me, took a long time. basically a guy was a n*gger and nig rigged a kawasaki ninja 250 exhaust in any way he could, and thought he did a good job.

fully charged 12v battery, and a power inverter. ...but, it's $30 for one if I pull it, or $50 for it if they do it. so, I let them do it and save the hassle.

no problem. I just did one yesterday. you need 70 degree heat for at least 24 hours after installing the windshield. it would be nice to have it warm already before you do it, too...the rubber glue comes out easier then.

heat gun and piano wire works great. cuts out like butter. leave *some* of the old glue on it. like a nickel's thickness if you can. the new glue/epoxy adheres better to that than it does to metal.

It would be alot easier to do that. and it will probably fix your issues...

and do you *need* to replace the rear harness, or were you just under the impression that it was all one piece? like I said...the dash harness is seperate from the engine harness, and seperate from the tail light harness. it connects to the engine harness at the firewall behind the fuse box, and connects to the tail/rear harness in the driver's kick panel. cherokee and comanche harnesses are nearly identical, save that the cherokee's switch connectors are wired differently, so you will only be able to re-use the factory fog light switch connector, and the power/comfort switch if you had and auto. and you have to wire in the cargo light switch if you have that option. aside from the switches, the kick panel connectors are different, but easy to make a crossover harness, or just splice to the mj dash to tail connector, and to make your brake lights work you have to add one wire to your turn signal switch (it just isn't there in the xj harness...you can cut it out of the mj one and wire it up). look up mfpdm's wiring charts in the DIY subforum...that will give you some more insight.

if your fuse box is bad from corrosion...save yourself the dicking around of getting another 5 speed harness since it's going to have had the same issue at some point in it's life with a leaky master cylinder. dash wiring harnesses are direct swap from auto to manual, and vice-versa. above that, a 2.5 and 4.0 dash harness is the same if it's the same era jeep. the auto trans wiring is actually part of the engine bay wiring, even though it's in the cab. otherwise, the dash harnesses are identical. roundabout way of saying it, but all you need is a dash harness, and you should be looking to get one from an '87 to '90 4.0/auto. you don't need the complete tail wiring harness, either, since that is also plug and play. I just went through this on my brother's '88 mj. got a dash harness from automan's '87 automatic mj, and swapped it in. aside from the radio connector being different (87 and older, 88 and newer radio connectors), there wasn't one single thing that was different. doing the actual swap is simple. remove knee board and vent cover, bezel, all electrical components, unbolt column from upper support and let it hang down, disconnect anything underneath, unbolt the fuse block and unbolt the firewall connector, remove the two 15mm bolts on each side of the dash near the kick panels (take out the kick panels, too), unbolt 4 5/16" bolts up by the windshield, and pull the dash out. remove old wiring, lay in new wiring, zip-tie it in, and put it all back together. 3 or 4 hours for a first timer. oh, and if you have a dash clock, unless it's the same year harness as your mj...it won't work. there were several different dash clock designs. you can swap the pins around and make it work, but it won't plug and play.

finished installing the dash, switched over to a charcoal one to go with my black headliner and rear interior. then put fuel in it (it's been empty for 4 weeks now :cry: ), and started it for the first time in over a month...man this motor sounds good :D

sears craftsman 4 ton quick jack is what I've got. I love it.

don't listen to this joker. he doesn't even have an mj anymore :shake: :ack: :D