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JeepcoMJ

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Everything posted by JeepcoMJ

  1. or just get grey 99 door panels.. I have grey, they don't match so I was hoping to find black parts grey '99 door panels match grey mj interior. however, agate grey '99 door panels are actually closer to black.
  2. or just get grey 99 door panels..
  3. your picture is throwing me off....i keep thinking "i didn't post that..." but yeah, other than that hideous ghey guard up front, it's a nice xj.
  4. try ordering parts for a 2.1 liter turbo diesel comanche. or a '74 alfa romeo spider veloce
  5. check your driveshaft ujoints.
  6. I just found all 3 of them that I thought I had....when I was going through parts storage this morning. so screw the junnk yard, next time you're over pick one up from me..
  7. :D :cheers:
  8. I only have wrap with it loaded up BUT remember that I have A LOT more power than you have. I have a modern 98 4.0 with all the updates and you have an older 2.5. If the truck is unloaded its fine and the most I get is axle hop not wrap. The wrap is when I have it full of LOCUST LOGS and taking off from a start. Wrap can break a u-joint and is annoying so I am going to build an antiwrap bar or I could get the extra long perches for when I swap out my D35. I've got more power than you, 91comanche...and I have no wrap issues. I'd peg your issues to weak springs.. Could be weak springs...could also be the 3.07's? the 3.07's would give you less wrap, not more. weak springs, or need longer perches.
  9. I only have wrap with it loaded up BUT remember that I have A LOT more power than you have. I have a modern 98 4.0 with all the updates and you have an older 2.5. If the truck is unloaded its fine and the most I get is axle hop not wrap. The wrap is when I have it full of LOCUST LOGS and taking off from a start. Wrap can break a u-joint and is annoying so I am going to build an antiwrap bar or I could get the extra long perches for when I swap out my D35. I've got more power than you, 91comanche...and I have no wrap issues. I'd peg your issues to weak springs..
  10. DON'T SCREW UP. the distributor doesn't just drop in. you need to mark where the contact end of the rotor is sitting with a black marker on the old one, then pull it out, and mark what position it turns counter clock wise to. then make the new one sit exactly the same way before you install it. if it won't go all the way down, you've got the center shaft in the wrong position. I said just the sensor because then you don't have to worry about indexing the distributor properly.
  11. that wiring is normal. the plastic cracks off. you've got a bad fusible link. test them, replace the bad one.
  12. cam position sensor. located inside distributor...junkyard run as you can just pull the sensor and not the whole distributor, and replace it. 99% sure that this will be the issue, barring bad fuses or ignition switch.
  13. hmm. I wonder how much interest there would be in a heavy duty close-to-stock looking rear bumper, which utilizes all of the stock rubber trim, and mounts the same way... that, with these mounts set up to replace the stock bumper bracket would be something I'd gladly pay $400 for if I was going to build a DD style MJ that needed to look close to stock...
  14. Wed should be designing this to replace the factory bumper bracket completely... Btw there is another bolt hole forward of the three on your plate that could be tied into...
  15. I tied mine into my upper shackle bolts. one more mounting point, plus reinforcement to that hangar.... maybe incorporate that? the bolts back out pretty easy, and can be run from inside-out so you can put the nut on the outside... -Pat
  16. you are maxed on flex with 31" tires at 2" lift. 4.5" will clear 33's with trimming. you're gonna need to reconsider your options.
  17. well it's been awhile. the body side plow mount is done, front bumper is off again, though...since I'm stripping the truck to zero now. plow itself is functional, but I haven't needed it since my room mate plows and brings the plow truck home when it snows. truck runs and drives, I'm pulling the engine and trans soon, doors off, fenders off, and bed off. painting everything that can't be accessed with the truck assembled, then reassembling. considering making it a 5 or 6 speed manual while the trans is out...and also have it in my head to go ahead and build a stroker this time. I bought a beater xj to destroy for now :D
  18. to be honest, I LOVED my truck with 4.0 HO, aw4, 7" lift, and 4.10's on 33x10.50 bfg a/t's. it was a very nice combination. I had plenty of power, couldn't really get stuck, and I was getting 17.92mpg around town, and up to 23mpg highway depending on if I was doing 65 or 75. I got better mpg at 75. my gas mileage decreased by 1mpg when I put 35's on it...but I also stayed out of the skinny pedal when I was not driving it purely to screw around. I'd be comfortable with 4.10's and 31's for a small time...but I'd be getting the lift first, then the gears and tires. accumulate all of the parts, and do the whole swap in one go...
  19. :( I personally would be distraught to be associated with Rusty's...
  20. popped the cherry? oh great...now it's gonna start getting needy :(
  21. I made it a second into that video, saw what was coming, and paused it. admired the poor truck, and closed the window. can't stomach J truck murders...
  22. I like my cat. but she's not effing stupid. if she can climb up it, she can climb down. this is Darwinism at it's best. next time, let the cat do what it's gonna do...anything dumb enough to not seek food and water isn't worth having around. (and yes, you're talking to a guy who was raised to make sure a cat can land on all 4 paws, and that it can hunt. it's a family thing...they're worthless otherwise.)
  23. I REALLY like the design, but... I'd lose the weld-on D rings. those are really only handy for hooks, and I hate the clanking/hitting something and screwing them up. plus it's nice to be able to use a clevis to just hook through the loop on the strap and put on. aside from that, I'd either turn the heat up on the welds, or slow down the wire feed. there's a bit much weld on there. not that I'm questioning the quality of the weld, just commenting on the looks...I'm sure there's plenty of penetration there. now, build a rear one for a comanche that ties in higher than the xj's rear hitch and bolts on in place of the MJ rear :P
  24. you are SOL. get a new trans.
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