JeepcoMJ

You can get creative with your linkage to make it work

so the linkage is different from a BA-10 to AX-15? and parts to get for 242 swap would be: 242 TC AX-15 4x4 linkage 242 shift gate anything i am missing? nope, you've got it all right there. and yes, the ba10/5 linkage is different. the shifter to pivot is a different length, and the pivot to tcase is too short to be applied to an ax15.

I've stayed away from centerforce lately, mostly because I want a gradual grab in the clutch...these aren't race cars. just put an OEM in my cherokee, though...and it turned out to be a pile of crap. first time I've seen one of the fingers actually break off the pressure plate. as far as the flywheel...it only needs to be replaced if it has bluish patches, or gouges. then it's seen high heat, or crap getting between the disc and the flywheel. otherwise, scotch brite it and put it back in. you are correct that you shouldn't have them turned down...they are tapered from factory, and when they turn them down they don't take that into account, causing premature clutch failure.

Not to hijack, but how about a 242 behind an AX5? Is that doable? yeah, it's doable. the output housing on the ax5 had two variances, though...short input or long input shaft on the tcase. you could run a renix era (87-90) np242 from behind an aw4, so long as you have the short input shaft output housing on the ax5. this affects the output seal depth on the transmission, and without the input shaft being long enough to ride on that seal, you will lose all trans fluid in a matter of minutes while driving. there doesn't seem to be any clear set of rules as to which year ax5's used the short input style output housing, at least until the MPFI 4 cylinders were introduced in 1991. shift linkage for that would be the ax5 shift linkage, but you'd have to adjust it appropriately (there is an adjuster on the shift rods)

I saw you driving in burlington on highway 11 by browns lake a few weeks ago. really wish you had rounded the cut off on the fenders...that squared off cut does not look that nice.

you will just need the np231 ax15 shift linkage, and an np242 shift lever to accomplish the 242 swap. the linkage is different between ax15, ba10/5, and aw4 auto...but the same for both tcases. the shift gate on the shift handle is the actual difference, but you have to remove the entire shift handle assembly to get the shift gate off of it anyways. and yeah, you could swap an early 23 spline np231 input into your tcase. the gear cut is the same up to 94 or 95.

I don't think we should burn a bridge with one of the few companies that offer parts specific to our comanches. Should it take that long? nope. will it take that long in the future? If they are being honest in saying that they've got everything taken care of with production...I doubt we will have to wait long for a bumper now. I think the OP should be upset, and has every right to be. but I'm not going to write off a company for only one bad experience that someone else had.

sorry, 4:30am, woke up out of a deep sleep from a disturbing dream. not with the program.

throwout bearing isn't being used unless the clutch is being pressed. front input shaft bearing, mid-plate bearing(s), or front cross shaft bearing are taking a dump. I have a 4x4 ax5 sitting here, if you're interested....just north of waterford in wind lake and a 2wd one, IIRC. -Pat

just swap the neutral safety switch, cut the connector that goes to the engine wiring off, and splice on the proper year connector. the connectors are wired the same, so getting it wired is very simple. you just won't use the two wires for that extra sensor. I say cut and splice because otherwise you've got to tear into the trans a bit to get the wiring installed in it.

He had a good run. the doctors told him he wouldn't live past 17....he put up a fight for quite some time. almost 13 years, if I remember correctly. I'll let everyone know more as everything progresses...I'm talking to his mom right now about what happened, and what to do. I have his '88 comanche (baby) at my house awaiting some custom paint and a 4.0 transplant, along with some more (low) suspension mods. hopefully with her blessing, I'll be able to finish his project as he wanted it. -Pat

I'm not really sure what to say here, partly because I'm not completely sure what exactly happened.. A good friend of mine, and long time member, Joe Laporte (AKA beaterjeep) has lived his whole life with a disease known as Cystic Fibrosis. after many, many years of battling it, living well past what the doctors expected, his battle seems to have come to an end. From what I've been able to figure out, Joe went into the hospital at the beginning of this week with pneumonia, which is not uncommon for him. Apparently while there, he got transferred to the ICU, after his body rejected the antibiotics the doctors gave him. Joe has been a good friend to me, helping me out in any way he could despite the distance between where we live. whether it was advice, or simply searching the internet looking for something I needed, he was always there for me. He's been lurking on these forums for several years, up until the past couple when he started spending more time in and out of the hospital. I'm very sorry to have to bring this news to the club. he's a long standing member who has given his two cents wherever he could, whenever he could. R.I.P. Joe, you will be sorely missed.

Swap the nss, remove the harness connector from trans writing and swap pin for pin to the old connector. The extra sensor will be un used.

four weeks and a ton of body work later (many dents), the piece of crap who is painting it FINALLY got paint down. he got paid to do the job, body work and all. I ended up having to do all of the sanding and blocking, or it never would have gotten done. bottom line....LAST TIME i ever have anyone else involved in body work. piece of crap really screwed the pooch, screwed my schedule, and did a $#!&ty paint job. the body work is fantastic because I did it...anyways, now I have to strip the hood to repaint it since there are paint lines under the clear. pictures will be up tomorrow.

Sorry...ran the same. Auto correct on cell phone

When I did it, I ran the same stock cooler and removed the radiator one from the equation. end result was overall temp drop of a few degrees, including the engine. It was will worth it but I suggest contacting auto meter and getting their trans temp gauge and sending unit, plumbing it in line on the sending line, and calling it a day. I've seen people put two sensors in line on a toggle switch, one after the cooler, to figure out their overall efficiency.

Bien hecho! Mira como pongas mucho tiempo y amor en su coche :D como se dice "truck" en Ingles?

you're thinking backwards from what I'm saying. were he to swap all of the guts from a 95 and older (non sealed output) np231 with a 23 spline input into his 96 and newer (sealed output), yes, that would be a very slight concern. however. the case itself has all of the same measurements as the old case. above and beyond that, the sole thing that would cause problems in an instance where you swap the guts from old to new using the new output shaft with the old guts, would be the ring for the planetary assembly on the input shaft. basically...if you use '94 and older guts, you MUST swap the ring over along with the planetary assembly. but, a '96+ sealed output output shaft and housing WILL spline up properly with all of the case internals of a '95 and older case. seems to me it would just be easier to only swap the output shaft. pretty much the same amount of work either way you go about it, you just don't have to deal with swapping over the ring for the planetary assembly from the '95 and older case into the '96 and newer one.

Were I you, I would be getting an older np231 tcase to use as a parts case. swap the output shaft and tail housing from your 231 into the older np231, and you're set to go.

bad thing about the breathalizer interlocks is that some of them even require random tests while driving. I like the breathalizer interlocks...it's a good system for people with a DUI. BUT....if you're going down the freeway at 70, and it randomly requires a test, then shuts down because the idiot driving it either had a sober friend start the car for them, or they started drinking after they began driving. Real safe design.

they don't ground out properly through the head, causing a weak spark. that's a by-product of having a high nickel content in the casting of our heads. stick to stock.

? Rob you reminded me of several other friends who are now union and absolutely support democratic interests. I lol'd. G. W. really wasn't the worst thing to ever hit us. he started with the shovel, we needed someone who wouldn't keep digging. that's why Obama is a effing joke.

Its funny watching people turn into dem after a union gets involved.

I've got the tuffy....it's out of a YJ, and will only work with the swivel bucket seats installed (sit 3" higher than stock), or it would be very uncomfortable on the arms. TJ would mount in with a bit of inginuity...the shifters aren't even close to the same, as the trans is different and doesn't have the proper selectors. that basically means you'd have to figure out your own way to have a working gear selector in it.

4.0 swaps take 3 weekends. one to strip and label the parts truck one to strip the truck getting the swap, and get the "new" wiring in place one to button it up and pop the motor in that's if you're taking it fairly easy and have an experienced hand. I do them in a weekend, with all parts prepped and accounted for prior to beginning. definitely not the hardest thing on earth...but, I've stripped far more xj's and mj's out than any person on any board I'm on (at least, that I know of).