JeepcoMJ

Lights, yes. Actual display, no...you would have to be running a 97 or newer harness since display runs off of the ecu

Won't ever run right. Your system isn't set up for two o2 sensors, and you're have to run duals in order to get an accurate reading if running true dual exhaust. If single, you could do it with a custom y pipe. But not worth it anyways since the exhaust ports on the manifolds are tiny....they won't port match to your hess because of that

Are the hazards on? Check the control even if the lights aren't flashing.... Could be that they are on but the fuses are blown. Also, unplug the switches for defrost/rear wipe/fog. If they melt internally, they can have similar symptoms. The hazard flasher is in the dash on the driver's outer side. If it melted down/failed it could cause this. Thee knee board comes out with 5 phillips screws. Easy check.

rear wheel cylinder went out a few weeks ago. rear axle still needs new wheel seals, so rather than fix it, I pinched off the line. I was just waiting to get the disc brake parts...didn't feel like spending $24 on a pair of wheel cylinders for brakes that I have no desire to have on the jeep. picked up a set of complete zj discs complete with axle tube ends....came off of a 98 with 235xxx miles on it, so the jy owner couldn't sell the axle. $50 later, I had both sides, with ebrake cables, and brand new ebrake hardware with newer discs, pads, and calipers. going to be installing them along with the new wheel seals later on this week. also going to be getting some 4" rear springs for it this weekend, and have iceland offroad flares on the way. going to be doing a lift on it since I just bought another 99 4 door xj that needs some electrical work, which I will be DDing.

no matter what anyone says, they are the same between the two. I built a rear bumper for a shortbed comanche. it fit perfectly on a longbed comanche exactly the same as it did on the shortbed. there is/are no bracketry differences, and they are cross-compatible, with the only exceptions reguarding bumpers being any side skids due to the difference in distance between wheel well and rearward edge of the box.

mid 1993 and up 5 speed 4.0 xj's. actually, any model that was offered with a 4.0/ax15 combo from mid 1983 and up. wranglers and cherokees, basically. a good guarantee is to start with a 1994 and up. the slave is cross-compatible between an ax5 (4 cyl manual trans) and ax15 within the same years. likewise with the throwout bearing plate. check ebay for semi-complete or complete bellhousing assemblies. they haven't been bringing much on ebay lately.

$300 each? i'd lose the stock bumper and buy an aftermarket with a hitch built in...

try a shop that builds driveshafts. they have lathes, and understand what it is to balance something out.

that sucks. but it should have gone off soon as he even put a key in it. here's this month's Darwin Award.... could happen to any of us. but seriously, if it did, this is an example of what NOT to do...and should have been common sense.

why not a wood stove? seems like a large area,concrete floors, and baseboards would take forever to get a little heat, not to mention the eletricity bill hard to get insurance companies to be comfortable with them, nowadays. two story two and a half or 3 car garage, with a 3rd 1 car section along the back for dry storage of parts, snowmobiles, etc.. two post car lift. just some (2) craftsman 40 series tool boxes loaded with cornwell or snapon tools, several heavy duty steel bolted-to-floor work benches with a big bench vice and anvil, 10 ton (minimum) hydraulic press, tube bender, spectrum 625 plasma cutter, miller 160 or 180 series welder, parts washer, stand-alone bead blaster, 100 gal (minimum) 220v air compressor located in an insulated, sound-deadened closet, and a decent (but cheap) stereo...with a college mini fridge. upstairs for more storage, or living space if/when i get kicked out of the house :rotf: already have most of those tools at my dad's place...nice shop there, too. but too big for my tastes. allows to accumulate too much $#!&.

in a zj, i'd just go with a 242. the linkages/shifter will be easier to find for that than for a 231

yeah, boa killed some little girl down in florida this past year, parents didn't put anything heavy on an inadequate top for the snakes cage, it got out and squeezed her to death while she was sleeping.

Signed, but someone needs to say that a very stringent background check will be necessary for the larger breeds. people have these and they end up killing their kids, as well. it's definitely the keeper who is the main problem. but, simply put...these snakes will eat anything they think they can fit in their body.

the absolute cheapest way to deal with this would be to wire up the 3.4 fuel injection.

hold off on the 3.4 swap until you can afford to give it some sort of aspiration. that carb and intake choke the life out of the 2.8. you will gain very little noticeable performance out of swapping in a 3.4 if you don't upgrade it. hit up ebay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Perfo ... 5ae44c07e2 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Perfo ... 4cfd16dd52 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Perfo ... 5647d075c0 I'd go with the 4 barrel setup, and suggest running a holley 390 4bbl carb on it. you will thank yourself for installing that once you drive it...and your mileage will increase. now, remember...it's still carburated in the end, which is not very friendly with inclined slopes etc. offroading. I would be going with the factory 3.4l fuel injection, and trimming out the harness, running a 4.0l lwb in-tank fuel pump. you can get the wiring schematics from it on-line or from a friendly member on here who has access to ALLDATA. the only other thing you'd need then for it to run would be a VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) bypass module, which can be purchased from bakerelectronix.com. It only requires a ground, a positive (I chose to supply it off of the ignition switch for a constant crank/run power supply), and has an output on a blue wire which goes to pin number 55 on the gm ECU. http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/ I really would be doing it that way. you really just have to strip out the headlight wiring and other shenanigans from the camaro/firebird wiring harness, and then piggy-back the stock harness.

Correy, thanks! it ended up being the driver. uninstalled it, then added new hardware, it automatically installed in safe mode, and then exiting safe mode and restarting, worked like a charm!

I will try that.

Surprised you were able to get another drive from another PC to even boot up. I've always gotten a BSOD immediately after the Windows screen when I've tried that. yeah. the other pc was an almost identically equipped machine, though.

not windows. does the same thing with an 80 gig hard drive loaded with xp.

I'm trying to get my brother's A1130n Hewlett Packard desktop to work again, after a few years of it being "dead". It is a windows XP model, and I'm trying to fix it so that we have a computer to use down in my dad's shop. It has an onboard ATI radion graphics card It was a very nice computer, then all of a sudden it died. Never really got a full story, but after some testing, the power source turned out to be toast. So, I gutted my old custom built desktop that had a fried out processor socket, put the similarly spec'd codegen power source in in place of the old Hipro, and got her to fire up. On the boot screen, I can access everything. At the startup screen, I can hold F8 and get into safe mode, and safe mode (in which I can access all files on the computer without issue) with networking. After that, at the xp load screen, it will go through the motions and attempt to load. once the load status bar reaches it's end, it then proceeds to a blank black screen, while the computer continues to make noises as though it's loading. I've checked out all the capacitors on the mother board, none are "popped" or leaking electrolite. one had a brownish tinge to the top, but that turned out to be dust. All RAM tests out good on my other computer as well, and switching RAM sockets doesn't help. At this point, I'm leaning towards a generally junk mother board. after all, if an electrical jolt hit the computer hard enough to fry the power supply, it could have done more damage. The only thing I do not have in order to further test is a known good graphics card. I have several that I'm not sure about, as the computer won't recognize them/I'm not sure exactly how to add them and select that as the main graphics card. Anyone here know enough about computers to perhaps shed some light on what the issue could be, or a definitive answer on what the problem actually is? We're trying to get this going rather than blow another $400 on a decent tower. Thanks, Pat

all of that should run through the headlight switch at some point. assuming your fuses are good, I'd start by swapping another headlight switch in.

check with whoever you're renting the dolly from. if you own the dolly, google it to find the specs. they all vary. mine weighs between 450 and 600 lbs.

like said above, check the bumper the weight it can tow will be stamped on it. but remember, that's what a NEW bumper is rated for. the more rust it has, the less strength it's got. frankly, if you're towing anything heavier than a ford festiva on it, you really ought to have a class 3. just the trailer weighs 1/3 of most bumpers load capacities.

do you mean the entire comanche pedal assembly with the release handle? or a complete cherokee setup?