JeepcoMJ

Eagle, I have an RKE and matched remote. I was planning on having that remote programmed as a second one for my xj, but the local junkyard actually saves remotes. I'll go get a few, have some programmed, and have a matched RKE and a pair of remotes available to ship to you with in a week. please verify that you have keyless by removing the dome light above the center console, and telling us whether there is a computer board there. If so, great. this will work and be plug and play. if not, I will get you the appropriate parts to install. they are plug and play. parts from 99-01 for the newer style remote, of course.

valve cover is done, oil filter adapter cleaned, polished, clear coated. had to do the o-ring for it so figured why not polish this turd. I bead blasted the valve cover inside and out, with the PCV valves removed, cleaned the baffles, put them back on and sealed them up. should help alot with blowby now. once it was painted, I sanded the high points on the cover as best as I could, then clear coated it. installed, with bolts blasted then repainted black. oil filter adapter. the O ring was leaking, so I pulled it off then blasted it, cleaned out the sand, wire wheeled it with a brass wheel for that polished effect, then clear coated it.

true enough. simple solution...find an xj in a junkyard that has the remote, and get the RKE from that xj. bolt in and call it good. oh!. you can program up to 4 remotes on the factory system. if you don't have one for the vehicle at all, acquire 4 of them. the dealership will charge you the same amount for programming one of them as they will for 4.

Hi Jake! now Tim needs to get on here, since he actually owns an mj now :brows:

Once you've bled out the head, open the rad cap our reservoir on level ground. The air will bleed out.

Factory keyless is stupid simple to install, too. I have an rke receiver and remote that match just sitting on a shelf.

Tenfour

I think that header may be the exception lol. There may be a crossmember local to me. I will check. Another member here has just bought my last one along with an ax15. Ink double check the jy by me, though, if you'd like

Oil pan gasket and rear main. seal done, cap cleaned, reinstalled, torqued. all other caps checked for proper torque. new gasket pan installed interior back together pedal assembly swapped. clutch master holes plugged. not pretty but effective. wiring to firewall complete (ecu harness) everything soldered and heat shrunk. keep in mind, I have an 89 mj here and used a 90 auto harness. of everything, this was the only connector that was different. once I wash out the engine bay, you won't know it's not stock.

the exact difference. 5/8" the exhaust divot is in the same location, at the same depth as the automatic. after looking at an automatic comanche sitting here, and a manual one, the exhaust hangars are identical as well. I would imagine that you would simply have to loosen up the downpipe a little bit, lift the exhaust up, and re-tighten it in order to maintain the same clearance. there is enough free play alotted by the donut on the manifold to accomodate. likewise, a borla header and most other aftermarket headers will allow for that adjustement. Good luck. it will probably make an almost perfect difference in your driveshaft angles. -Pat

It is the same

Thanks adam. That is correct. Been awhile since I've done one.

Thanks. Will swapping the x-member affect the exhaust hanger bracket? The exhaust divot on the crossmember is in the same location as well, to keep the exhaust from contacting it. IIRC it is also alot deeper to accomodate for the height of it. I will double and triple check that for you here and post back tonight about it...Out the door to run back to the shop and get some more work done.

the "sensor" has numbers on it which indicate where it should be clocked. they are offset to accomodate the different gear diameters. look at your tooth count (it's stamped on the speedo gear), then look at the sensor. the mark next to the appropriate number should get centered on the bolt of the clamp that holds it down. slide it in, call it good. I always install them with the offset side closer to the ground, then turn them appropriately.

I will get a pic tonight, but the difference is right about 3/4". The locations for the trans mount are identically centered as well

mine is a .030 bore with 4.2 crank and rods, comp cam, borla header, 01 intake manifold, bored TB, neon srt4 injectors. I can get as low as 15 avg if i'm beating on it, or as high as 23 avg if I keep it in it's sweet spot around 1900rpm...seems to be my best fuel mileage with how it's built. I imagine it would be higher still if I grandpa-drove it. that's on a 97 xj 5 speed.

Yep. Direct bolt in so long a you are putting that case in the renix.

I don't see how keeping things private would have helped. they'd been through it once before, she ignored the lesson and did it again. the audacity of a kid to b*@$£ and moan at their parent's "mistreatment" of them is starting to get ridiculous. I had a job when I was 15. before that, I had chores that would make anyone but a farmer cringe. they needed to be done, and I had to earn my keep. I've worked no less than 30 hours a week at my actual job through the last two years of school, plus swim team year round, which was about 4 hours/day every weekday, plus weekend meet. When I was 18 it went to 70-80 between 3 jobs when I wasn't in classes. since then, there have even been a handful of times where I put in over 100 hours a week. it wasn't fun, I didn't enjoy it, but I earned my keep. Good on him to shoot the laptop. I'm pretty sure that I would have gone quite a bit further and been using quarter sticks or something of that nature. going public and embarassing her is definitely a "sad" way to go about it, but I can't remember a time that I've been embarassed and haven't learned from it. maybe it was exactly what she needs.

Just loosened that bleeder on back of the engine, fill water tank.started vehicle & it pushed water out steady, probably a full gallon for about 45 seconds or so, so With the truck running & garden hose running keeping watretank full, I closed off the bleeder valve. ........after about 3 minutes of letting it idle,it reached 210 & all the hoses were warm/hot .....which they werent before. I'm not too crazy about it sitting on 210 but it seemd to stay in that general area & didnt go much past it. maybe 215. isnt 220 max temp??? water? out of garden hose? are you dumb? COOLANT. of course it's running hot. now drain the entire system down completely (hoses off water pump), and put a 60/40 mix in it, the 40 being h20, 60 being coolant. there's another 10% of water that you won't be able to get out of the block, so it will mix itself into a 50/50 mix. don't ever do that again. water is not a solution, and you don't use a hose to keep it topped off. fill reservoir, close cap. crack that "bleeder" (actually coolant temp sensor) open, let air bubble out, close, repeat.

as perviously stated, bleed out the system

Buy a block heater and put it in that hole. Proper size, and it clamps in.

you should pull the bumper out of the back of the 87 and swap end caps lol. I'm glad you got it together. sorry about the motor, but at least you spent under $800 on the thing in the first place. did you fix the driver's floor yet?

looking good Sam. If you still need that vent window, I have one in factory tint. pay for postage, I'll send it out to you by noon next day. -Pat

thanks for piping in the details! I'll update again with pics today. that is not all that is done, just all I have pictures of.

if the adjuster under the bed is too rusty to move the nut enough, you can always disassemble your drums to allow complete motion of the ebrake...the cables will then be free moving. chances are that you want to inspect your rear brakes anyways if your ebrake is a concern.