JeepcoMJ

you and everyone else but me....i've sent no less than 10 to the crusher, not reparable, after stripping all mj specific salvageable parts. meh. this mj is purpose built, but still neat. mud running is actually pretty tough to do when you start getting that heavy.

how bout comanches with comanches? maybe not quite running over, but crushing...a bit. that whole truck had been plated to cover rust on rust on rust.

test your coil, cps, and cam position sensor in the distributor for issues with connections, or in the case of the cam position sensor, see how much side to side movement is in the distributor shaft...there should be hardly any, and enough will put the contact a few thousandths off, causing missfire, especially if the brass bearings in the distributor are worn in a spot 180 degrees off from the cylinder which is throwing the code. also, are all of your injectors opening and closing properly? a failed injector will cause a missfire code... easy way to test, put the tip of a screwdriver on the side of the injectors, one at a time, with your ear on the handle. the "clicking" of opening and closing will resonate, and you will be able to tell if it is harmonically different from the others. it's not selling because of the missfire code. get that fix

if you're talking just 99 front end conversion, sure. but for a full interior conversion, basically the only things that will be left to sell off the jeep are everything from the rear doors on back. that transmission MUST be used in a 97+ swap, as well as most of the wiring, and the 23 spline tcase if your mj is a renix.

Our diesel does as well. Guess I really never thought about it...

I could, but the last one didn't turn out looking nice as I would like. Fit and finish is important. It has to look like it belongs. Don, do you by chance have any pics of the inside of your tstat housing that I could use as a guide for milling mine out?

Don, thanks. I'd love to have the cowl good, but $$$. That hesco tstat housing is externally identical to stock, with a, larger internal bore, correct?

The rad cap is brand new, and as started the main reason for the new tstat is that the housing weeps a bit of fluid at the gasket. I'm sure I have a pressure tester somewhere, but it's useless until I replace that gasket.

K. Tstat housing is already high flow, and maybe the tstat in it currently is bad. I figured that's why I'd put in the hesco one. It's used, but I did the boil method to determine that it opens and closes at proper temps.

Radiator is a full core aluminum btw, almost new. Water pump has under 10k miles , 50% mix green coolant of same age, put in after a flush. Old coolant came out perfectly clean.

I've got a good used hesco thermostat that I'm putting in my xj this week, 4.0 block fyi. While I'm at it, I was thinking...does anyone have thoughts about putting a smaller pulley on the water pump in order to make it push fluid a bit faster? I've already got dual obd2 efans , one constant with accessory power to replace mechanical fan, one sensor controlled with a bypass. I can't let it run more than 15 minutes at idle without the check gauges light coming on and the temp gauge being at 230 or higher. Granted, my tstat housing is boiling off a very small amount of fluid through a bad gasket... Side note, cooling improved when I removed mechanical fan. Checked with several known good mech fans. It's tough to keep the stroker cooled...

62 years angst no rust? So much as a drop of water looks at an mj and it's gone....

That style of stabilizer works better and isn't subject to binding while flexng as the angle doesn't change as much. It's also too big in diameter to put in the stock l/c. I would like interior pics. You're able to gleam most of the details of exterior view from google pics....

No interior pics?

I know nothing about the datsun motor, but if it's considered reliable, why not? Even if you have to use a divorced tcase it would still be cool

They mount directly onto 95 and newer xj seat brackets, but as far as putting them in an older style floor pan, you're going to have to make your own mounts

I dd a 99 2dr...

I woulddrive liberty over a cherokee any day, but only the early body style. They are a safer vehicle by far. Xjs are just parts vehicles imho. I drive one now because I don't have time to rebuild one of my mjs.

Featherlite. Worth itand holds its value.

Cut the radius arm edges off the axle as they should b bee non cast in a78 and make the property mounts, or buy them. There are plenty of companies that make upper and lower mounts, coil buckets, etc. you would have under 300 into doing it right, and no risk of the axle falling out. Don't do half @$$.

And, gaskets if you can get them. Otherwise don't worry about it. The orange rtv does the job

The clocking difference is an issue using the proper ax15 crossmember and mount, so you will want to change the rear case. I have a good 2wd one and need a4wd output shaft and a yj tail housing so I can replace the 260k mile one in my xj, and clock the 242 up to a reasonable hight

the only renix MJ I ever personally had (and drove more than once) was my 87. it took me under 12 months to remedy that problem. I do not like using a voltmeter to diagnose every damn issue. my brother's is renix and has absolutely never had an issue that wasn't plainly obvious and purely mechanical. but then, a few buddies have renix jeeps and end up having to go over them with a fine tooth comb if they so much as look at them the wrong way. OBDII is where it's at.

Use orange rtv and call our a day. Then sell me the parts that are left

Took me 10 min. Not mad about that, only mad that there is no hd flasher available