JeepcoMJ

Yep. The chryco dealer had some.

thanks guys. the filler should be dry today or tomorrow, and i will have it sanded and finished the following day.

Ive done it, so I know it can be done. No pics, tho

Gotcha. Dash clock location?

And that idea would be? Lol

Thanks, I will. I could do 2 to 3 more too...

https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/483409_10100224792301913_970157706_n.jpg https://fbcdn-photos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/429445_10100224791867783_870006646_n.jpg Phone won't let me tag them proper, so clicky clicky about 25 min of work, just needs to be smoothed out and painted

Worth it

I need more than one extra switch, and can't find a 4 switch panel anywhere

Kill them all. If I catch them, I feed them to my chickens.

Much appreciated Don, but I want nothing to do with aftermarket switches, or metal panels, or any of the locations he puts things in...I like my ash tray, it holds my business cards, cd player remote, etc.

So...I need more switches in my xj. Trying to come up with a new switch location, I was befuddled. I want 3 more factory rocker switches...and had been thinking of utilizing the garage door opener location in my overhead console. Once in there, I realized that it was nowhere deep enough to fit the switches....you could get the switches in that area and have them be level, but it wasn't deep enough to add connectors, too. I could hack out the backing of the OHC, hog another hole in the headliner behind it, and do that...but then I still have to run a ton of wires. Just not my cup of tea. Looking on ebay, I came across this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-Upper-Dash-Switch-Panel-Only-Free-Slappy-Pad-/130778310085?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AWrangler&hash=item1e72fea5c5&vxp=mtr and thought "neat...don't like aftermarket switches, but neat" so...I decided to try something. I don't have process pics, and it's not quite done, and I'm not entirely sold on the idea... I may keep this idea, I may find somewhere else. who knows? started with a factory 3 switch bezel that had a bad lighter outlet, and a crack in the mount...combine that with a factory vent, and "presto" I did that using a plastic welder, a metal file, and a scuff pad. It's not done. I will have to either weld in more plastic on a few low spots and resand, or just use some body filler, sand it smooth, then vinyl dye it charcoal. the area the plugs are in is very accessible, you can run wires in without pinching them and without cutting up the vent in case you want to go back to stock. It doesn't look stock, but doesn't look horrible IMHO. I will obviously be buying different switches for it... a simple backlit "ON" switch, one more replacement "fog" switch, and a "RL" switch for the beefy in-bumper reverse lights I will be installing for plowing purposes. The point is factory looking switches to do 3 things: turn on the slik stick plow control, flip the headlights from factory function to upper lights, and transfer reverse light functioni from the factory tails to the fogs that will be in the back. This is the supplier I will be using. I'm running one of his fog light switches now, they are considerably beefier internally than stock, which gets rid of the issue of frying out switches all the time. He has many variances available. http://www.ebay.com/itm/300814002573?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

No worries, nothing can kill jim.....horse kick, stroke, screwdriver to the eye, etc.....

We have one that my brother made out of aluminum....we don't use it anymore, I will get you pics and ask what he wants for it. All welded, no rivets.

Piece of debris probably in the wrong place at the wrong times time gouged the wall there...likely on a compression stroke.

Cylinder drag. How scored is the cylinder

well, I won't be taking the effort to fix all the images here, but I will continue on. Two weeks ago I finally did the air bag control relocation, and put a new center console latch and rear mount in. Today I did my first oil change in 9500 miles....may be a bit over lol. In my defense, I did two oil changes on the first 1500 miles on this engine...then every time I wanted to do the oil change, I didn't have the $$$ to do it. So, it's been bothering me that it was sounding a bit "ticky", i knew i needed to do the oil, so I finally did. Mopar MO-090 filter, 6 qts Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30, as I had run previously. 265,750 miles on the jeep, just over 10,000 on the motor. She purrs like a kitten now, and definitely makes me feel better knowing that that is done. Another thing that had been bothering me is that, since I got it, the clutch has leaked. I determined it was the slave early on, since there has been no fluid visible anywhere except around the external slave and at the base of the bellhousing, presumably from leaking into the bell. I've done the clutch twice since I put this jeep together, the second time because several clutch fingers actually broke off of the pressure plate, not because of clutch wear. I got them to warranty me a stage two clutch, even though I bought a stock clutch when I put the engine in. I had been holding off on doing the master/slave because I could only find a pre-bled combo, for $190 or higher. On a whim, at Advance Auto on black friday, I had them look it up, and they had just a slave, in stock, for $52...made in china, but I had a 30% off coupon so I figured "what the hell, may as well". Install was easy, new slave is METAL, and BLEEDABLE. Two pluses in my opinion. The install was easy, though bleeding didn't go so well initially. I ended up manually bleeding it by pushing the slave rod back in and bleeding the air out of the reservoir....my god, what a difference it makes. I literally have to reteach myself how to drive this thing, since the clutch disengagement is all the way at the top, as opposed to 3/4 of the way down. You can definitely feel the stage 2 clutch and the crisp engagement it offers...and I can now roast the tires. Anyways, I took it in for a quick hose-down afterwards, and snapped a pic or two. The seatcover I had halfarsed It is a waterproof, almost cut-proof material (you have to have special cutters to cut the material). The guy who did this for me is doing a nicer set of 4 for me right now for a 60/40 split liberty rear seat and two more two door seats, with this material being the only material used rather than the pleather he used on the side. and the engine bay, freshly lubed K&N. I'm going to replace all of the plastic wrap on the harness, since I "accidently" got acid on it when I was doing a engine bay clean-up on it with the acid we used at the place I was working at, at the time. This week I'm installing my Meyer plow, slik-stick control, nitesaber lights, a 3" lift using BDS front springs and hellcreek rears, skyjacker lowers, and a full set of 4 air shocks...I'm not looking forward to the rear shocks as they are currently welded in, thanks to the P.O.'s mechanic. Also have a craftsman 41" single center drawer that will be going in the rear, and I need to do the headliner when I install my overhead switch-panel in the garage door opener part of the overhead console (since I can't find a 4 switch panel anywhere). The overhead switch panel will use stock fog light switches to control the upper/lower headlight interchange for the plow setup, and the reverse lights that will be included, as well as an on/off stock blank switch to turn the plow controls on, so that I can't accidently bump it while driving.

Everything. Literally.

Lol

Lumber jack commandos. some scary stuff. Welcome back

lol. canadian army.

I say we kill them.

kudos on undertaking the swap...but a 4.3 vortec? a 350 would have been nice, a 4.3 not so much...and it's the same amount of work. or you could be awesome and dump a v6 that's actually decent in it...like a buick 3800.

that vertical weld could be a very epic fail. at least it's not intended for DD so it likely won't be an issue. awesome rig, ooogly interior tho lol.

Thats stupid to do it wrong.