JeepcoMJ

1. next time disconnect the steering shaft at the steering box (on donor and truck to be installed in)...it can only go on in one position there, and it's a bit more open (plus the shaft does telescope). 2. that sounds like the ignition switch is heating up and losing connection? that's about all I can think of. when it cools off it will work again... so put your old ignition module on that column and see if that fixes it.

you won't need to change anything internal to do the swap, just hang the fenders (if you even want to) and bolt the front end on. you will just have to get the 97+ headlight harness or adapt yours to work. no hood change will be required

:-/ I put a K&N on my 2.5 xj and all I feel is that I wasted money...so I put it on a different jeep.

I can tell you now that that other stuff isn't going to give you any noticeable power. only regearing it will give you more power, but then you lose top end.

there was a point when I could have supplied 5 comanches. now I can supply 3 comanches and one xj, soon to be 2.5 xj's and that's not including parts rigs... of course, NOT to put anyone on the spot, but there are those who are hoarding MJ's

you'll have to either get brackets to build from an XJ without the swivel option, OR build your own entirely. I'd opt for the grand cherokee ones and make your own ones

there are some on ebay, or some of us have them

to pull the window you have just the nut/bolt that holds the window to the regulator, and the vent window. you'll need to at least loosen the vent window, removing it most likely is the best idea. but remove the bolt, get a vice grips on the back and turn the nut if it's spinning (reallys houldn't be). 2 phillips heads on the top of the door frame for the vent window, and 1 ten mm bolt (maybe 11mm) to get the lower support removed. you have to do that, drop the glass to the bottom of the door, then remove the triangle window. after that you carefully remove the window. reinstall is opposite

don't spend the $$$ on a new PCM, and if they did get you a new one, you need to demand their sources and to see the work order for it...they're sure to know that they can get them used in good order, so make sure you get what you pay for. not trying to scare ya just keepin ya on your toes

:D glad you're back Joe. now I have someone to talk jeeps to again :D hope you get off the o2 a.s.a.p. and off the IV too....and may the shower come soon :roll: speed_racer, thanks. I'm equally concerned over everyone here too :D

great idea Joe me cutting up an xj... ah, the dorm days. lol, I love that gun bringing it back from the dead lol

what transmission do you have? if it's auto it should be 4.10 or 4.56, if you have a 5 speed you should have 4.10's, and if you have a 4 speed you should have 3.55's.

nope, no rear swaybar. as for upgrades, there are none. obviously cold air intake could help a bit, new plugs and wires, cap and rotor. basically nothing else will make them better save a turbo kit which would require a newer 2.5 or at the very least theharness etc. from a 91+ 2.5 as they have multiport fuel injection rather than TBI

he kept the 2wd control arms...I cut the ones that were on that axle when I removed it from this cherokee that I cut up it's probably the trackbar mount itself...I torched off all the bolts. putting the other one on will probably fix the problem.

he's going home tomorrow beaterjeep, this one's to you :cheers: 8)

then just swap the shackles. it will give you a bit of free lift on the xj :D

why not use parts from your 4wd springs to repair the 2wd ones? that will lower it back down, then with a xj shackle that's another .5" back down too

CET, how thick are your spring perches? I mean, how high off the axle are they? there are some that hug close and are less than .5" higher than the axle, but I've seen som ethat are 2" higher than the axle too. look at that. then, I'm not sure, but this was the case with my 89...the rear springs were replacement springs with different arch. I could stuff 33's in the rear on "stock" suspension, so when I lifted it it ended up about where yours are. not sure but maybe you should check that out.

if I were to drop it again, I would make just 4 of these spacers and install them on the inner side, and get a chunk of C-channel or square tubing for the outside edges...then I could make it longer than needed, and angle the edges for some better approach (in case I get hung up). I also made a spare spacer for the t-case skid plate.

t-case drop is around an inch, some go to 2 inches. on my 89 MJ I went to 1.25" drop and made my own spacers...all 8 of them here's pics...it had studs on the driver's side frame for the crossmember, they had to go for the drop kit to work...so they did but the nut for one broke off. fixed it this way. then just welded that stud down... spacers 1" OD, 1/4" walls, 1/2" ID completely installed crossmember d-shaft will gained 1.25" or more of input on the slip-yoke from the drop

the stop/shut off/restart thing is classic renix. what that does is clear the computer of any "trouble codes". a renix computer doesn't actually store trouble codes, it clears every time it's shut off. so, I would probably take it into someone with a scanner for the renix system and have them plug it in while it's running. from there you'll know if anything is faulty (most likely)

I still think that yoke is sticking out too far anyways. I don't think the one in my 89 stuck out that far... but, a YJ yoke would most definitely help.

your shaft is too short...you have too much yoke exposed. just because you have the brown section of the yoke don't mean it can't run there...you see the shiny spot, it runs there. it SHOULD run farther down the slip yoke than that. that will give you more room...but it's not gonna be cheap to retube. you didn't have the shop do the measurements did you? if you did they'll have to do it for free or next to nothing. I can't think of another reason that it wouldn't work except maybe your pinion angle isn't set right :dunno:

sh*t looks good just need a rear bumper now.

that just may be the problem... make sure it has that valve on it, it's a 1 way valve I believe.