JeepcoMJ

title says it all :cheers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMwhmog2tsU

BFH hit it in a cross-pattern, just like you're putting lug nuts on.

yep. don't make a habit of it, and don't drive far. bring the d-shaft with in just in case.

lol, well you've helped me out alot. this will be good knowledge for when I do the swap. I have one ligned up at the moment, a 2002 pontiac 3800SC. grand prix or something, it's had the back end caved up to the back seat and the price is $640 for the whole car :brows: with 42,000 miles on it.

yes, check your lwb roll bar post, I just explained it there.

lmao. I wouldn't buy ANYTHING from that dealership.

thanks! I thought that was the case, but it never hurts to ask. now I have a bellhousing that I could use....which means the custom machining will only be on the flexplate. I won't be doing it as difficult as that guy did...it will retain the stock supercharger and I'll alter my firewall so that the intake tube will curve upwards and onto the top of the motor. I'll be going with a cowl induction hood (made from a stock hood), and the air filter will be part of the hood, only sucking in cold air.

hmm..and that bellhousing will bolt to the aw4?

I'd be setting it up with an arcade style shifter actually. 1,3 2,O with a switch up on the dash to flip it to auto shift, and a button on the end of the shifter for TC lockup. I say brett's kit because you know what it is, I'd do it myself. but...I'm talking about setting this aw4 up to go behind a buick 3800 with a supercharger. the reason that I want one from an aw4 is that they have the same bellhousing with one minor detail...the starter is on the driver's side not the passenger side. so a 4.0 TC is probably closer to the shift points of a 3800 rather than a 2.5. this would be for the 86 cherokee I'm driving...I've basically done all the math to fit a supercharged 3800 in it now, and I want to make a beefier xj twin of my 3800 comanche. auto = offroad preference for me, and the 700r4 or TH904 are in my opinion, crap for what I want

exactly. I'm familiar with electronic shifting, not mechanical. so I'd rather work with the system I know. that, and I've already designed my shifter assembly and wire routing

....ok, screw the auto. not worth the effort, I'll just put an ax5 behind it for now and play nice.

hmm. I wonder how I'll make mine work with a 3.8 buick motor then...

thanks Pete. thank you everyone for your well-wishes, I'm sure if Joe were on he'd be thanking y'all.

:D I'm not saying it won't be OK in the short run but an upgrade is necessary in the long run.

and torque converter. it's useless to me without the torque converter. guys...you can't use the 4.0 TC with that bellhousing...the different TC is because the bellhousing is different. I may build my own bellhousing and use an 4.0 torque converter, then have the buick flexplate redrilled and re(neutrally)ballanced for the 4.0 torque converter. basically, I have plenty of 60 degree bellhousings anyways, and they need to be altered with the starter on the driver's side of the engine rather than the pass. side like the 2.5, so maybe making my own would be smartest. I don't particularly need the TCU as I'd be doing the BRETTM shifter as well, but it would be nice to be able to flip the switch and not have to shift every once in awhile.

Joe's 5 hours away in menomonee, and I don't even know his last name :oops: so contacting his parents is kind of hard. maybe Pete could help with that. his cell phone was his mothers but apparently it's become his now.

I haven't been following anything recently, but if hillary is still in the running...she does NOT have my vote. I'm not flaming her, just saying that we need someone with real goals who's right in the head as a president (where has that been all these years :P)

oh boy...finding one won't be fun. almost as fun as finding a dakota with 4 cyl and ax15.

as I said, if you intend to use it for anything even mildly hardcore, you're gonna regret it when it brakes. better to take precautions.

any idea what years to look for with this combo? (I hate 4.10's already with the 4 cyl so 4.56 is out of the question...I have to run 3500 RPM to do 65mph right now)

it's a hell of alot better than a dana 35, and for the cost of perches and time of burning them on, why wouldn't you do that upgrade?

tire size is death if you abuse it. rotational force is what causes issues. i.e. you increase the rotational force by stepping on the gas, and the tires are supposed to accomodate...well, the week link is the dana 35 axle. what happens is the input (pinion/d.s.) is too high, the output (output shafts) isn't gonna catch up in time and the weak part (carrier, gears, housing) will break. if you are very soft-footed, you may get a few thousand miles out of it, maybe more if you drive like a grandpa. but if you plan to abuse it at all, you are no longer asking the question IF it will break, but WHEN. example...I destroyed the dana 35 rear on my 86 comanche not once but twice. first time was getting into traffic and having to stomp on it. second time was showing off and stepping on it around a corner. I have 31" tires. another comanche I had was stock and I blew the dana 35. it was also a 4 cylinder. so, plan on an upgrade in the near future.

is there anyone on the club that has an AW4 that was behind a 2.5? is the bellhousing a seperate piece on those or is it part of the case? I will need the bellhousing for my cherokee to go behind the 3800 buick motor that's going in it. I'll also need the torque converter for it. reason this is in tech is I want to know the stats/differences between the 2.5 AW4 and the 4.0 AW4. I know jeep made them but there are a very select few equipped like so. also I'd like to buy a complete one or just the bellhousing and torque converter (if the housing is a seperate piece) -Pat p.s. I've considered the 700R4 but no can do. I want the AW4 because I want electronic shifting to set it up witha manual shift automatic (BrettM's kit), so it will be an aw4.

yes, the axle has the same angle but the ujoints no longer do. they have a much steeper angle. generally you need new ujoints when you do this; they don't like their operating angles changed after they've been running one for awhile. also you need to be sure that you have enough room for suspension compression/droop/flex allowing for ujoint movement without binding. as a result. if your angle will be too sharp, you need to adjust your pinion angle accordingly...but at the same time need to also adjust the transfercase angle accordingly (t-case drop). a YJ yoke helps alot to remove binding.

these jeep cherokees are "conversion XJ's" and were made by a company as such, that's not a home built cherokee.