JeepcoMJ

wanna buy the 3800? :P

just wondering if anyone else keeps a saltwater aquarium...i've currently got a 37 gallon breeder tank set up with an emperor 400 tank and prizm backpack protein skimmer. base is crushed coral with cultured sand below it, and there is around 25 lbs of live rock in the tank currently I have many small hermit crabs, mated pair of percula clowns two pajama cardinals two brittle star fish one serpent star fish one blue chromis damsel one white yellow-crested chromis damsel one black yellow-tail chromis damsel one firfish one lawnmower blenny one long-spine sea urchin and somehow have successfully tank-bred 11 pink bubble-tip anemone quite the nice tank, but i wanted to upgrade tank size and came across a large quantity of live rock for a great deal so it's ending up here (my sister is buying more than she can use for less than half the cost of the quantity she needed, from a fish store). anyways, it's another hobby of mine...just wanted to know if anyone else was into it?

he doesn't have a welder.

my all-time favorite A/T's are Dayton Timberline A/T's they handle GREAT in snow, dry, wet conditions. the only issue I had with them was grabbing in loose gravel situations, after putting 20,000 miles on them.

heat gun and it will be easier to remove. heat from the front and back of the pane

I'm really not sure what the problem is here... i need an EXACT explanation of what isn't opening. thought you said they won't slide far, but will slide a little bit. is this the case? if not, and the center panes simply won't seperate at the middle, then you will need to get some form of wedge in there (go from the inside so burglers don't see any slight damage and think it's easy access) and start seperating it out...go from top or bottom to center. YES the center panes ARE interlocking. i've got both types of 4 pane sliders, and the 3 pane sliders as well...never once have i had any opening issues

I've pretty much GIVEN AWAY or traded off 3 sets of grey bucket seats...almost four sets now. soo...yea. if you need any sets in a few months, i'm sure i'll find another cherokee to part out (after i've cleared out all of my current junk) anyways, I'm putting racing seats in the 3800 when I rebuild it, with 5 point harnesses and at least a back hoop from a roll cage in it too. those seats you've picked are expensive...I'd shoot for cheaper.

sleep is good

under under under do not go over. if you find it necessary to make trail repairs which require the removal of the rear axle, or dropping ubolts for whichever reason, you will now have to bleed brakes as well, and hope you don't wreck your hardlines. run them across the top of the axle, then down UNDER the leaf springs but keep them very tight.

I get some spare bolts and use them as hammer bolts. remove the good bolts thread hammer bolts in a few threads hammer the sh*t out of them until the hub comes out a ways. use a screwdriver as a wedge so that the hub stays straight and doesn't rock at all while hammering it out.

i tend to agree lead_correct about this_follow I'll be building my own set...simply need mounts and the upper arms right now.

1. the guy delivers himself as unintelligent and looks like a meathead. i don't think that that is the character someone who's teaching kids about guns should have 2. i don't know about you, but SHOWING kids weapons at school comes across to me as saying it's okay to bring weapons to school. no matter what the man says, he brought a gun into a school, and kids WILL misconstrue that. 3. it does look like he did that intentionally, the deliverance of it seemed planned, but the response of the man who "accidently" pulled the trigger in the aftermath wasn't very well rehearsed if this were the case.

very interesting tail light idea. i'd add a turn signal marker to the bottom outside edge though. you've gotten another itch going in me...custom tail lights

here's mine; and yes, it's in the way of EVERYTHING right now. i'm trying to come up with a better idea so i can retain the use of the bed...but the side benefit of having the tire in the way is that i can't haul more stuff home :oops: (have been told that more = getting kicked out...) anyways, i didn't build it. got it in trade. it's adjustable for different back spacing etc and used to be part of a removable assembly...i didn't have the base plate so i simply got a big bolt and bolted it through.

one small spot means more than one small spot, unless you're very, very good at preventative maintenance. check it over. if it's really the only spot, go get some rust-proofing spray (in a spray can) and spray the sh*t out of it, especially inside the rocker. then, a fix you'd be able to handle would simply be picking up some fiberglass and resin. it wouldn't be too hard, except for the angle you'd be glassing at. don't use bondo except to smooth, and especially don't stuff it with chicken wire :roll:

it's a dealer-install aftermarket slider. sometimes if a person requested a slider on a MJ with certain specs, and the one on the show room floor met all specs except for the slider (or the person just liked the truck but wanted a slider), the dealer would install the 4-pane aftermarket slider. as for it being stuck, take a flat head screwdriver and clean out the lower slide channels...i almost guarantee they're full of sh*t

plasma cutter of course :D won't be for a few weeks...gotta figure out a few measurements and such first. and i need to build a crossmember that will allow me to drop the trans...

looks like a costume with something dead in it. wouldn't be surprised if it's the farmer's who found it's inbred cousin who somehow offended them. of course, they probably couldn't afford the costume... :roll:

ok. what should i do to reinforce that section?

so i'm going to start building my longarms (y-link style) for the 87 over the next few weeks...need to build the mounts, then figure out all of the angles and such. i have one HUGE problem though...i'm extremely nervous about cutting the factory LCA brackets out. so much so, that I really don't want to do it...i'd rather find a way to not cut them out and just block off the control arm hole. has this been done? those of you with long arms (y-link), what do you think?

almost done with the center console and the little things in the interior...just need a power cable for the amp to power the 6x9's, then rebuild the steering column plus install a 3-spoke steering wheel. from there, just need to re-install the front driveshaft and put the posilock in (built one, just need the handle so I can shift it). transfercase might be screwed though...makes noise from the front bearing.

remove rear tail housing (done aready) remove c-clip/snap-ring unbolt secondary output cover. yes, you will need to drain the t-case, and yes it is going to be a bit leaky. from there, just pop the bearing out and pop the new one in. there may be a snap ring on the bearing on the inside of the output of the case (if you follow what i just said) but not sure... i just rebuilt an np242 t-case and will tell you that this is the easiest way to do this. the bearing will slide right off the output shaft as you pull the secondary output case.

to clarify; there is ONE wire that runs to the cargo light. it is pink, with only one connector. the cargo lamp only needs a power supply, as it grounds through the screws which connect it to the cab. to install the cargo light, find the center of the cab, and then the center between the top of the window seal and the top of the cab. mark the spot with a hammer and a small center punch. drill out a hole to fit the connector through...the connector should fit through very snugly. connect it to the cargo lamp. get long STAINLESS self-tapping screws. center cargo lamp and place firmly against cab (don't forget to make sure it's level) stick screws in, and give one or two spins on them. remove cargo lamp. center punch the marks left from the screws, then screw them in. pull them back out, and install the cargo lamp. don't forget to RTV the screws and around the connector. don't RTV the entire rubber seal. install the proper switch bezel and switch, and connect it to the factory wiring under the dash (it is already there, along with the fog lamp switch connector and both indicator connectors sans bulbs everything is there except for the switch and lamp

in my best borat voice "very nice"

i can't believe that it got stolen...ridiculous! hopefully you get it back, in one piece (maybe someone is pulling a fast one on you ;))